By  on February 7, 2008

Unusual mixes of fabrics ruled the runways, as designers featured everything from Native American styles in stained-glass colors to terra-cotta shearling coats over earthy knits.

Anna Sui: The Aesthetic Movement was very much on Anna Sui's mind as she designed her fall lineup, a characteristically eclectic mix that called upon everything from pre-Raphaelite paintings to Gustav Klimt to, as Sui put it after the show, "the colors of a Tiffany glass lamp." A disparate mélange, yes, and though at moments it veered toward too much, for the most part the collection worked. Sui started with an ode to Native American living, fringing a black faux-suede jacket with a geo-patchwork velvet dress, which was followed by another fringed number, a basket-weave chiffon dress in bright marine blue. Caftans and ponchos were designed to great effect in popping colors and patterns — ikats, paisleys, the aforementioned patchwork — while the more subdued looks, such as a watercolor floral-print velvet dress and a wonderful crepe-de-chine deer-print one, brought to mind what Sui does best: cheerful cocktail fare with a hint of quirk.

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