MILAN — Yarn manufacturers exhibiting summer 2010 collections at Filo looked to survive the economic malaise by placing a heavy emphasis on organic, recyclable and novelty yarns.
Visitor attendance was up 8 percent at the fair, which ended a two-day run Oct. 23, and exhibitor numbers increased by 12 percent. But Paolo Monfermoso, managing director of Filo, said the fair’s future plans were to “retain Filo’s niche heritage and above all, its quality.”
Metallic yarns in matte shades were a key look for many of the exhibitors. At Filatura di Pollone, sales manager Massimo Colombo said “purple is dominating the spring palette, with added filaments to give the yarns a brighter effect.
“Anything heavy, chunky or coarse is not popular in the market,” Colombo said. “Seasonless yarns are what the market is demanding. Cashmere and cotton mixes that can be worn both in summer and winter” were sought after by buyers.
Colombo stressed that selling strategies had to adapt in light of the worsening global economy.
“It’s a question of what we as a company can do for the customer and not simply what we consider is right for the market,” he said. “It seems obvious but it’s a difficult learning curve and requires a lot of energy, time and importantly an open mind.”
Filati Maclodio, a wholesale distributor of dyed yarns, exhibited Bioplus, a collection of organic cotton yarns with a detailed certification. However, Mauro Caviggioli, sales manager, said buyers are becoming increasingly skeptical of environmental claims.
“Buyers are questioning why there are so many organic yarns on the market and it’s raising suspicions,” said Caviggioli, adding that “customer assurance is vital and there needs to be better regulation.”
Biella-based Marchi & Fildi offered a new collection dubbed Ecotech, a certified organic yarn composed of recycled cotton and new fibers such as acrylic, bamboo and cotton. The yarn is certified by the European Oeko-tex standard ensuring that health-harming chemical substances are eliminated during production. Centrocot, which guarantees the certified traceability of employed raw materials, was also used.
Innovation remained uppermost in exhibitor’s minds, according to Giovanni Tessari, marketing and communications manager from Lurex.
“Competition from new markets continues to get stronger, especially from the Middle East,” said Tessari. “We are focusing on more technical yarns so customers can find something unique such as our very thin range of yarns for next-to-the-skin applications.”
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews
“Stranger Things” is getting a new cast member for season 2. Meet @sadiesink_, the 15-year-old who will be joining the Netflix series for its new season. You may recognize her from “The Glass Castle” with Brie Larson and Woody Harrelson, but the Texas native’s next role goes in an entirely different direction. She describes her character, Max, as “a rough and tumble skater girl [who] becomes friends with the boys at school.” The second season debuts on October 27. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdeye
Amid the Harvey Weinstein controversy, there’s another sector that’s being put under the spotlight for sexual abuse: the modeling industry. While rumors about abuse and sexual harassment of female and male models — and the photographers, agents and others who perpetrated it — have circulated within the fashion world for years, model @cameronrussell started posting stories from models on Instagram last week about abusive situations they’ve encountered — from sexual harassment and molestation to attempted rape. Over 75 have weighed in so far. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews
To celebrate its 16th anniversary, @dylanscandybar tapped designers and celebrities to create mosaics out of candy. The mosaics will be auctioned off to support the philanthropic cause of each participant’s choice. Pictured here is the mural created by @aliceandolivia's Stacey Bendet. For a first look at some of the other artwork being unveiled tonight, go to WWD.com. #wwdeye
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye