FLORENCE — European yarn producers are banking on brighter days ahead as they gear up for the Pitti Filati show that will be held here July 6 to 8 at the Fortezza da Basso.
The fair will feature previews of the fall 2011-12 lines of some 100 firms, including 20 from abroad. For this edition of the biannual show, organizers have invited 30 U.S. buyers, representing some of the country’s top firms and fashion groups, with the goal of strengthening the event’s international character. Textile show Prima Moda Tessuto will run in conjunction with Pitti.
“In May, we registered an 8 percent increase in the value of orders [compared with the same month the year before], especially from the U.S. and France,” said Federico Gualtieri, president of Filpucci, a fancy yarn producer based in Prato, Italy. The firm expects to post a 20 percent order increase this year after a weak 2009.
Gualtieri, who said orders reflected a reinforced effort in research, echoed the view of many factory owners who have an upbeat but tempered outlook.
“We hope that 2010 will be a turning year after a disappointing 2009,” said Stefano Borsini, president of Italian knitting yarn consortium Igea, which gathers producers from Prato.
Borsini expected members to end 2010 with an average 5 percent sales increase over a year earlier.
Firms eyed Pitti for further direction.
“We’re braced for a good show amid positive signals, including orders for fall-winter 2010-2011 and performance at the latest [high-end men’s show] Pitti Immagine Uomo,” said Raffaello Napoleone, chief executive officer of Pitti Immagine.
Cariaggi, a fine-yarn producer from Marche, Italy, was cautious about the next season.
“In the last months, orders from the U.S., France and Japan increased, but difficulties,” such as the global economic downturn, rising prices of raw materials such a cotton and wool, and increased competition, namely from China, “have not been fully overcome,” said board member Cristiana Cariaggi. “So far, we are in line with our [60 million euro, $79.8 million] budget for 2010,” she said.
Cariaggi will showcase collections for fall 2011 that focus on color and rustic-chic fibers. In particular, the company features a cashmere-and-silk blend that adds brightness to natural tones like beige and white. It will also launch new colors for its Ander fiber, made of 70 percent baby camel hair and 30 percent silk.
Similar textures will be previewed at Filatura e Tessitura di Tollegno. The key trend will be ultrathin products, like the firm’s new viscose and wool yarn in a distinct color card that suggests vintage effects, and thicker products with special twists. Colors will include naturals, greens and browns.
“In the first half of this year, we got a 10 to 15 percent increase in orders [compared with the year-earlier period], especially from France, Germany and Japan,” said the company’s export area manager, Stefania Bernardi. “Between the end of 2009 and the beginning of 2010, prices soared by 30 to 40 percent due to the rise of raw materials’ costs. We had made our price list before that surge, so it was a slump.”
A weak euro helped increase European producers’ margins against foreign currency and, in this way, partly offset the impact of soaring raw material prices.
Color newness was also stressed at Scotland’s Todd & Duncan. The firm’s collection includes its calling card, Calamous, a mix of cashmere and linen, that it will show in watercolors, and Ghost, an 85 percent cashmere and 15 percent water-soluble yarn used to get fine lightweight woolen spun cashmere with nine new colors. Those will range from winter grays and neutrals for the backbone of the paletteto black and dark navy, which will be offset by pristine tinted winter whites and silver grays, and also new reds, yellows and greens.
“Last year was to forget,” said the company’s global commercial director Carla Bordini. “In the first half of this year, we noticed a discreet growth. We expect next season to be a season of transition.”
@zacposen's go-to holiday gift? Cookies! "I'll usually bake cookies and send them as a gift," said the designer, who recently released his cookbook "Cooking With Zac: Recipes from Rustic to Refined." Get the recipe for his Brown Butter-Chocolate Chip Cookies via link in bio 🍪🍪🍪 #wwdeye #cookingwithzac
For @monsemaison’s pre-fall 2018 collection, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim honed in on the brand’s many signatures — men’s wear, which was tweaked and feminized through deconstruction, proportion play and lots of bare shoulders. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
On Friday night, @yohjiyamamotoofficial received the Design for Asia Lifetime Achievement Award in Hong Kong. The 75-year-old designer has been celebrated for many years and is best known for his dark and avant-garde tailoring. “In my long career, in design, architecture, [I’ve been to] so many parties, this is the very first time that I have such a warm feeling, I really appreciate this,” Yamamoto said. #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)
Discovery is collaborating with British pop artist @philipcolbert on a new line of clothing and accessories called Discovery Shark. The collection, which will launch next summer for Shark Week’s 30th anniversary, features a whimsical line of women’s and men’s bomber jackets, sweatshirts, bags and more. #wwdfashion
“I’m always a big champion of a female rapper, and I’m glad to see a new voice that feels unique and authentic that’s coming up, and I think we’re going to see more great things from her,” said @itsjeremyscott about @iamcardib, who performed at @moschino’s Art Basel Miami Beach party last night. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
@janellemonae’s “What’s Your Frequency?” room in @refinery29's #29Rooms made its debut this week at the opening of the Los Angeles art exhibit. “It’s about the ongoing conversation around mass surveillance, the weaponization of technology and cultural uniformity. My space was created so that we can come together and talk about the complexities of our humanity,” said Monáe. #wwdeye (📷: @bucknerphoto)
@pantone announced their Color of the Year 2018: Ultra Violet. Nearly 20 months after the musician Prince’s death, fashion is having a purple moment. Varying shades of purple appeared on spring or fall runways, from @christopherkane to @calvinklein. @gucci’s Alessandro Michele bathed his fall runway in ultra violet-colored light at one point. Pantone 18-3838 is meant to “push the boundaries of what inspires us to look upward and outward to the future.” #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)