The future is old news. Exaggerated shapes, supertechy fabrics and digital prints aren’t quite the novelty they once were. So for spring, designers infused a careful mix of unique textiles and treatments into their collections to show a softer side of modern.
Miuccia Prada described her Milan showing as “archaic and primitive,” but the fabrics she used for her asymmetrical shifts—a cotton and metal blend—were anything but. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana threw recession woes aside with their ultraluxe silk taffeta and duchesse brocades, fashioned into geometric jackets and skirts.
In New York, Diane von Furstenberg executed a few of her signature prints in beads and sequins as a structural element to shore up her fluid fabrics. Marc Jacobs delivered plenty of shimmer, most notably with a Strawberry Brocade and Leopard Lurex developed with Synergies Textiles. And at Tuleh, an ombré number with a treeprint overlay was a favorite of designer Bryan Bradley. While the piece read like abstract art wrapped into a suit for a future first lady, it was actually an homage to mid–20th century environmentalist Rachel Carson and was among many nods to Mother Earth.
Innovation took on an airy quality on London’s runways, with Roksanda Ilincic playing with gold and silver coatings on soft organzas and chiffons, while Louise Goldin tapped into Japanese technology with a superfine lightweight organza to create pale knit dresses. Five meters of Goldin’s material weighed less than a single egg.
In Paris, digitally engineered prints abounded at Alexander McQueen— perhaps the most startling, a stained glass–like design based on a blown-up photograph of crystals, their facets warped and tinted in four different colorways. The print was then engineered to fit the forms of a dressmaker’s dummy before being applied to fabrics such as jerseys, knits and silks. Elsewhere, McQueen’s natural history lesson centered on fusions of natural and man-made elements, while stunning, lab specimen–like frocks featured loose silk flowers trapped under tulle netting. And at Balenciaga, sequins and embroideries, such as pleated ribbons coated with shimmery films, were dazzling, and Nicholas Ghesquière took things even further with his use of bonded suede and gabardine paper. The matte fabrics absorbed and deflected light, providing a welcome contrast to the metallic sheen typical of all those futurists from yesteryear.
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)