The future is old news. Exaggerated shapes, supertechy fabrics and digital prints aren’t quite the novelty they once were. So for spring, designers infused a careful mix of unique textiles and treatments into their collections to show a softer side of modern.
Miuccia Prada described her Milan showing as “archaic and primitive,” but the fabrics she used for her asymmetrical shifts—a cotton and metal blend—were anything but. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana threw recession woes aside with their ultraluxe silk taffeta and duchesse brocades, fashioned into geometric jackets and skirts.
In New York, Diane von Furstenberg executed a few of her signature prints in beads and sequins as a structural element to shore up her fluid fabrics. Marc Jacobs delivered plenty of shimmer, most notably with a Strawberry Brocade and Leopard Lurex developed with Synergies Textiles. And at Tuleh, an ombré number with a treeprint overlay was a favorite of designer Bryan Bradley. While the piece read like abstract art wrapped into a suit for a future first lady, it was actually an homage to mid–20th century environmentalist Rachel Carson and was among many nods to Mother Earth.
Innovation took on an airy quality on London’s runways, with Roksanda Ilincic playing with gold and silver coatings on soft organzas and chiffons, while Louise Goldin tapped into Japanese technology with a superfine lightweight organza to create pale knit dresses. Five meters of Goldin’s material weighed less than a single egg.
In Paris, digitally engineered prints abounded at Alexander McQueen— perhaps the most startling, a stained glass–like design based on a blown-up photograph of crystals, their facets warped and tinted in four different colorways. The print was then engineered to fit the forms of a dressmaker’s dummy before being applied to fabrics such as jerseys, knits and silks. Elsewhere, McQueen’s natural history lesson centered on fusions of natural and man-made elements, while stunning, lab specimen–like frocks featured loose silk flowers trapped under tulle netting. And at Balenciaga, sequins and embroideries, such as pleated ribbons coated with shimmery films, were dazzling, and Nicholas Ghesquière took things even further with his use of bonded suede and gabardine paper. The matte fabrics absorbed and deflected light, providing a welcome contrast to the metallic sheen typical of all those futurists from yesteryear.
In honor the @CFDA’s announcement of @iamnaomicampbell receiving the Fashion Icon Award at the 2018 #CFDAAwards, which will take place on June 4, here’s a #tbt of the supermodel on @michaelkors’ runway in 1991. #wwdfashion #wwdarchive (📷: George Chinsee)
“I was making the guacamole when my scout saw me,” says model @stuckinteenage on being discovered just six months ago while working at @chipotlemexicangrill. Since then Williams has signed with @dnamodels, walked in her first show at @calvinklein and landed on the cover of @vogueitalia – a high point of any model’s career. To read @lisajlockwood’s full interview with the model on her experiences thus far, head to WWD.com – link in bio. (📷: George Chinsee)
“I love the idea of dialogue, period. It’s where I’ve always gotten my inspiration from: hearing other women speak, their journeys and their paths,” said @hereisgina, who delivered the keynote speech during @sxsw for @createcultivate in partnership with @fossil. For her two panels, Rodriguez chose female empowering, female-led and female entrepreneurs to focus on. Head to WWD.com to read more about her thoughts on Time’s Up, growing up in a family of women and why we “need a girls’ club.” #wwdeye #sxsw (📷: @jgreenery)
Leading luxury brand are shaking things up to keep up with streetwear. Case in point: the arrival of @mrkimjones as artistic director of @diorhomme. Jones, who succeeds @Kris_Van_Assche, is seen as one of the handful of designers who can actually straddle the luxury and streetwear worlds — which could lead to even more changes at established brands. What could this mean for the rest of the menswear landscape? Head to WWD.com to find out what experts predict #wwdfashion (📷: @franckmura)
“It’s like buying groceries. You’re going to buy the best mango, the best mozzarella, the best things. You have to, or others are going to take it all,” said @gabrielahearst on why she uses only the finest fabrics. Last week, Hearst received her first @cfda nomination for Womenswear Designer of the Year, and earlier this month she opened a permanent showroom in Paris. To read @jessiredale’s interview with the designer and find out why this is shaping up to be a big year for her, head to WWD.com. #wwdfashion (📷: @francoisgoize)
“It’s an interesting thing, playing a younger version of your mother. It’s an interesting concept. I adore my mom and love her in every capacity, but it was just something that had never crossed my mind,” says @anniemstarke on playing a young Joan Castleman in “The Wife.” The same role will be played by her mother Glenn Close. Read more about her growing up in the film industry as the daughter of producer John H. Starke and Close and what she has planned for the future #wwdeye (📷: @nataliamantini)
@asics is launching a new streetwear sneaker inspired by its latest ambassador, @steveaoki. The Hyper-Kenzen x Aoki, which will launch at @footlocker stores exclusively tomorrow, is a slip-on style that incorporates the brand’s proprietary Gel technology through beads integrated into the midsole for comfort and endurance. Read the full story on WWD.com.