The future is old news. Exaggerated shapes, supertechy fabrics and digital prints aren’t quite the novelty they once were. So for spring, designers infused a careful mix of unique textiles and treatments into their collections to show a softer side of modern.
Miuccia Prada described her Milan showing as “archaic and primitive,” but the fabrics she used for her asymmetrical shifts—a cotton and metal blend—were anything but. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana threw recession woes aside with their ultraluxe silk taffeta and duchesse brocades, fashioned into geometric jackets and skirts.
In New York, Diane von Furstenberg executed a few of her signature prints in beads and sequins as a structural element to shore up her fluid fabrics. Marc Jacobs delivered plenty of shimmer, most notably with a Strawberry Brocade and Leopard Lurex developed with Synergies Textiles. And at Tuleh, an ombré number with a treeprint overlay was a favorite of designer Bryan Bradley. While the piece read like abstract art wrapped into a suit for a future first lady, it was actually an homage to mid–20th century environmentalist Rachel Carson and was among many nods to Mother Earth.
Innovation took on an airy quality on London’s runways, with Roksanda Ilincic playing with gold and silver coatings on soft organzas and chiffons, while Louise Goldin tapped into Japanese technology with a superfine lightweight organza to create pale knit dresses. Five meters of Goldin’s material weighed less than a single egg.
In Paris, digitally engineered prints abounded at Alexander McQueen— perhaps the most startling, a stained glass–like design based on a blown-up photograph of crystals, their facets warped and tinted in four different colorways. The print was then engineered to fit the forms of a dressmaker’s dummy before being applied to fabrics such as jerseys, knits and silks. Elsewhere, McQueen’s natural history lesson centered on fusions of natural and man-made elements, while stunning, lab specimen–like frocks featured loose silk flowers trapped under tulle netting. And at Balenciaga, sequins and embroideries, such as pleated ribbons coated with shimmery films, were dazzling, and Nicholas Ghesquière took things even further with his use of bonded suede and gabardine paper. The matte fabrics absorbed and deflected light, providing a welcome contrast to the metallic sheen typical of all those futurists from yesteryear.
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews