“Mad Men” is not the first TV show or film to influence the suit. Here are seven iconic moments on the small and silver screens that redefined men’s tailoring.
“Dr. No,” 1962 Ian Fleming created in James Bond an enduring symbol of masculine power — one that was made flesh by a tuxedo-clad Sean Connery in the first Bond film. “Suits project masculinity and stability — all values associated with James Bond,” said Andrew Bolton, curator at The Costume Institute. “007 reflects this masculine ideal of being in control; he renders suits cool.”
“Charade,” 1963 When a suit-clad Cary Grant hopped into the shower in a seminal moment in the movie, he confirmed a nation’s developing taste for both seersucker and fabrics that could be washed. “His suit reflects the culture’s wider desire for technological advancement,” said Bolton. “Central air had allowed lighter-weight fabrics, which in turn permitted suits to become more versatile and part of a lifestyle.”
“The Tonight Show,” 1968 Indian Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru’s appearances on American TV in the mid-Sixties ignited interest in the lapel-less jacket that bears his name. But it was Johnny Carson’s adoption of the mandarin collar coat that turned the Nehru into a full-fledged, if short-lived, trend.
“The Great Gatsby,” 1974 Ralph Lauren dressed Robert Redford in the classic American style his brand would come to define. But the suits in the film also advanced the decade’s penchant for dandyism, said Bolton. “It really shows the Seventies interest in 1920s America. You see it in the width of the lapels.”
“American Gigolo,” 1980 This film signaled a new direction in men’s wear and gave the movie’s wardrober, Giorgio Armani, his first break in America. After a decade of excessive disco style, Armani presented an alternative that not only showed that tailored clothing could be relaxed, but also heralded the rise of the designer market.
“Miami Vice,” 1984 Don Johnson’s signature look — T-shirt, jacket, loose pants and shoes with no socks — became widely popular when this police drama first aired. “It subverted this idea that tailored clothing was formal,” Bolton said.
“Wall Street,” 1987 Spread collars, Hermès ties, colored braces, banker stripes — Gordon Gekko’s wardrobe, designed by Alan Flusser, popularized the power suit. “This movie typified the aspirational yuppie,” explained Bolton. “Instead of being associated with disco or leisure, the suit became a requirement for the white-collar worker.”
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)
@Pharrell and his wife Helen Lasichanh were among the stars that came out to celebrate @rimowa’s first pop-up concept shop. The space, which is located on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, draws inspiration from airport luggage carousels and lounge areas – and features the company’s luggage and accessories. If the pop-up is successful it could pave the way for addition temporary shops throughout the world. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA)
@carineroitfeld celebrated @crfashionbook’s first calendar last night with a dinner party at Spring Place in Manhattan. Photographed by @stevenkleinstudio, the calendar takes on a fitness theme and features @joansmalls, @gigihadid, @danielle_herrington_ – pictured here – and more. “[Carine Roitfeld] wanted me to feel sexy and she wanted me to be myself and feel it out on my own and do what I felt was right,” said Herrington, aka Miss October. #wwdeye
@saintrecords and @virgilabloh last night at @americanexpress’ “A Night With Success Makers” event. “I always bring it back to community because without that I wouldn’t have the courage,” said Knowles when asked how she has gotten where she is now. Read more highlights from their conversation on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @lizdoupnik)
This Just In: Industry sources have told WWD that Anastasia Soare is rumored to be considering selling her beauty business, @anastasiabeverlyhills. According to those sources, Soare has tapped investment bank Imperial Capital to explore sale options for her eponymous beauty brand –– and with at least $340 million in net sales, this would be a big deal. Put in context of other recent transactions for makeup companies, Soare’s price tag could be in the billions if she were to sell the whole thing. #wwdnews #wwdbeauty (📷: @clint_spaulding)
@assouline’s latest book, “The Spirit of Bentley: Be Extraordinary” captures the adventurous attitudes and opulent lifestyles of @bentleymotors’ most creative owners and enthusiasts throughout the U.K. The 292-page hardcover has a section dedicated to showing its team of skilled artisans and photos of its most colorful owners, from George Bamford to designer @alicetemperley, pictured here by Aline Coquelle. #wwdeye
@google released its report on the most popular search terms this year. For fashion brands, the list was led by @gucci, the luxury brand that stunned the market last October when it pledged to stop using fur. Runner ups were @supremenewyork and @fashionnova, along with more established brands like @louisvuitton, @chanelofficial and @ysl. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)