“Mad Men” is not the first TV show or film to influence the suit. Here are seven iconic moments on the small and silver screens that redefined men’s tailoring.
“Dr. No,” 1962 Ian Fleming created in James Bond an enduring symbol of masculine power — one that was made flesh by a tuxedo-clad Sean Connery in the first Bond film. “Suits project masculinity and stability — all values associated with James Bond,” said Andrew Bolton, curator at The Costume Institute. “007 reflects this masculine ideal of being in control; he renders suits cool.”
“Charade,” 1963 When a suit-clad Cary Grant hopped into the shower in a seminal moment in the movie, he confirmed a nation’s developing taste for both seersucker and fabrics that could be washed. “His suit reflects the culture’s wider desire for technological advancement,” said Bolton. “Central air had allowed lighter-weight fabrics, which in turn permitted suits to become more versatile and part of a lifestyle.”
“The Tonight Show,” 1968 Indian Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru’s appearances on American TV in the mid-Sixties ignited interest in the lapel-less jacket that bears his name. But it was Johnny Carson’s adoption of the mandarin collar coat that turned the Nehru into a full-fledged, if short-lived, trend.
“The Great Gatsby,” 1974 Ralph Lauren dressed Robert Redford in the classic American style his brand would come to define. But the suits in the film also advanced the decade’s penchant for dandyism, said Bolton. “It really shows the Seventies interest in 1920s America. You see it in the width of the lapels.”
“American Gigolo,” 1980 This film signaled a new direction in men’s wear and gave the movie’s wardrober, Giorgio Armani, his first break in America. After a decade of excessive disco style, Armani presented an alternative that not only showed that tailored clothing could be relaxed, but also heralded the rise of the designer market.
“Miami Vice,” 1984 Don Johnson’s signature look — T-shirt, jacket, loose pants and shoes with no socks — became widely popular when this police drama first aired. “It subverted this idea that tailored clothing was formal,” Bolton said.
“Wall Street,” 1987 Spread collars, Hermès ties, colored braces, banker stripes — Gordon Gekko’s wardrobe, designed by Alan Flusser, popularized the power suit. “This movie typified the aspirational yuppie,” explained Bolton. “Instead of being associated with disco or leisure, the suit became a requirement for the white-collar worker.”
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews