“Mad Men” is not the first TV show or film to influence the suit. Here are seven iconic moments on the small and silver screens that redefined men’s tailoring.
“Dr. No,” 1962 Ian Fleming created in James Bond an enduring symbol of masculine power — one that was made flesh by a tuxedo-clad Sean Connery in the first Bond film. “Suits project masculinity and stability — all values associated with James Bond,” said Andrew Bolton, curator at The Costume Institute. “007 reflects this masculine ideal of being in control; he renders suits cool.”
“Charade,” 1963 When a suit-clad Cary Grant hopped into the shower in a seminal moment in the movie, he confirmed a nation’s developing taste for both seersucker and fabrics that could be washed. “His suit reflects the culture’s wider desire for technological advancement,” said Bolton. “Central air had allowed lighter-weight fabrics, which in turn permitted suits to become more versatile and part of a lifestyle.”
“The Tonight Show,” 1968 Indian Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru’s appearances on American TV in the mid-Sixties ignited interest in the lapel-less jacket that bears his name. But it was Johnny Carson’s adoption of the mandarin collar coat that turned the Nehru into a full-fledged, if short-lived, trend.
“The Great Gatsby,” 1974 Ralph Lauren dressed Robert Redford in the classic American style his brand would come to define. But the suits in the film also advanced the decade’s penchant for dandyism, said Bolton. “It really shows the Seventies interest in 1920s America. You see it in the width of the lapels.”
“American Gigolo,” 1980 This film signaled a new direction in men’s wear and gave the movie’s wardrober, Giorgio Armani, his first break in America. After a decade of excessive disco style, Armani presented an alternative that not only showed that tailored clothing could be relaxed, but also heralded the rise of the designer market.
“Miami Vice,” 1984 Don Johnson’s signature look — T-shirt, jacket, loose pants and shoes with no socks — became widely popular when this police drama first aired. “It subverted this idea that tailored clothing was formal,” Bolton said.
“Wall Street,” 1987 Spread collars, Hermès ties, colored braces, banker stripes — Gordon Gekko’s wardrobe, designed by Alan Flusser, popularized the power suit. “This movie typified the aspirational yuppie,” explained Bolton. “Instead of being associated with disco or leisure, the suit became a requirement for the white-collar worker.”
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty