“Mad Men” is not the first TV show or film to influence the suit. Here are seven iconic moments on the small and silver screens that redefined men’s tailoring.
“Dr. No,” 1962 Ian Fleming created in James Bond an enduring symbol of masculine power — one that was made flesh by a tuxedo-clad Sean Connery in the first Bond film. “Suits project masculinity and stability — all values associated with James Bond,” said Andrew Bolton, curator at The Costume Institute. “007 reflects this masculine ideal of being in control; he renders suits cool.”
“Charade,” 1963 When a suit-clad Cary Grant hopped into the shower in a seminal moment in the movie, he confirmed a nation’s developing taste for both seersucker and fabrics that could be washed. “His suit reflects the culture’s wider desire for technological advancement,” said Bolton. “Central air had allowed lighter-weight fabrics, which in turn permitted suits to become more versatile and part of a lifestyle.”
“The Tonight Show,” 1968 Indian Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru’s appearances on American TV in the mid-Sixties ignited interest in the lapel-less jacket that bears his name. But it was Johnny Carson’s adoption of the mandarin collar coat that turned the Nehru into a full-fledged, if short-lived, trend.
“The Great Gatsby,” 1974 Ralph Lauren dressed Robert Redford in the classic American style his brand would come to define. But the suits in the film also advanced the decade’s penchant for dandyism, said Bolton. “It really shows the Seventies interest in 1920s America. You see it in the width of the lapels.”
“American Gigolo,” 1980 This film signaled a new direction in men’s wear and gave the movie’s wardrober, Giorgio Armani, his first break in America. After a decade of excessive disco style, Armani presented an alternative that not only showed that tailored clothing could be relaxed, but also heralded the rise of the designer market.
“Miami Vice,” 1984 Don Johnson’s signature look — T-shirt, jacket, loose pants and shoes with no socks — became widely popular when this police drama first aired. “It subverted this idea that tailored clothing was formal,” Bolton said.
“Wall Street,” 1987 Spread collars, Hermès ties, colored braces, banker stripes — Gordon Gekko’s wardrobe, designed by Alan Flusser, popularized the power suit. “This movie typified the aspirational yuppie,” explained Bolton. “Instead of being associated with disco or leisure, the suit became a requirement for the white-collar worker.”
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
For men’s fall 2018, @giuseppezanotti drew on elements from streetwear, sport, biker, combat and rock ‘n’ roll. Pictured here are a pair of shoes from the collection, featuring zippers, rhinestones, and silver hardware. Head to WWD.com to see a roundup of the accessories from Milan’s men’s fall 2018 shows. #wwdfashion (📷: Andrea Delb)
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of @ralphlauren’s snowboarding collection, the brand is mining its archives. The iconic brand is reintroducing vintage styles and dropping new designs for a color capsule that will be available in Ralph Lauren stores and @openingceremony on January 25. The capsule will consist of 10 pieces, including the Snow Beach Pullover, pictured here, which is a collector’s item that rapper Raekwon wore in Wu-Tang Clan’s “Can It Be All So Simple” video. #wwdfashion (📷: Tom Gould)
For @rochasofficial’s pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua channeled the sophisticated and intriguing Catherine Denevue in the film “Belle de Jour.” Polished collarless coats, midi skirts, suits and ’60s graphic motifs were all featured in the collection, adding a sense of discreet luxury. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion
“We tried to produce clothing of that couture quality, but the most daunting part was that we only had a matter of days [to do it],” said costume designer Lou Eyrich, who recreated Gianni Versace’s iconic looks for @americancrimestoryfx. Eyrich searched online retailers and vintage shops for original pieces from the design house and for @penelopecruzoficial, who plays Donatella Versace. Head to WWD.com to read how she created the Versace world. #wwdfashion
Only three months after her stellar debut catwalk season, @kaiagerber has inked her first big design collaboration –– with @karllagerfeld. The collection blends Lagerfeld’s Parisian chic aesthetic and the model’s signature West Coast casual style via RTW, accessories, footwear and more. The #KarlLagerfeldxKaia collection will launch in September with a series of events. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews