By  on January 29, 2008

There were plenty of contradictions at the PremiEre Vision Preview at New York's Metropolitan Pavilion, held Wednesday and Thursday. Conflicting colors and patterns and, most surprisingly, both spring and fall seasons got equal attention at the spring 2009 trade show. "A lot of people are selling fall '08 immediates here," noted Michela Raumer, Miroglio Lana's U.S. sales representative. The result: Booths filled with as many dark colors as light were spread out under a color wall trumpeting neons, melon tones and electric hues.

But even among the spring 2009 fabrics, there were differences. Some vendors, such as Clarenson, chose to make textiles traditionally for fall appropriate for the season in lighter weights and incorporate the neon palette. "Our summer tweed is primarily cotton instead of wool," said owner Olivier Clarenson. "We use less Lurex, too, and punch it up visually with the bright summer colors."

Others did the opposite. Stefania Ferré, sales director at Fedora USA, said, "We've been more successful with muted tones so far." The company's lightweight cotton blends were shown in dusty shades of brown, purple and gray.

The range of textures presented was also considerable as vendors experimented with more than tweeds and crinkled cottons. At Millenium Srl, for instance, polyester was cross-stitched with linen to make a shimmery netted fabric. To prove that all sorts of materials can be embroidered, Antonio Aspesi of Federico Aspesi Srl presented a collection of embroidered, sequined cotton pieces.

"All of these designs are my babies," noted Aspesi, "but since this is a preview, I didn't bring my entire collection."

Most other vendors offered similar disclaimers when customers visited their booths. Considering the breadth of designs presented here in New York, Paris seems likely to be overwhelming without a good edit from the mills.

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