PARIS — Organizers of the Première Vision textile trade show anticipate seeing the impact of the weak global economy on attendance figures, but are responding by expanding the range of fabric resources available to potential buyers.
Première Vision is set to run Sept. 23 to 26 at the Parc d’Expositions in Paris-Nord, Villepinte. Some 720 mills will exhibit, hailing primarily from Italy and France. Organizers confirmed an expected dip in visitors from the U.S.
“Business in our recent salon in New York [in June] was excellent,” said PV’s chief executive officer Philippe Pasquet. “America is by no means dead. But for almost all of the world’s developed markets, the market is at its worst since a very long time. A number of operators will likely be limiting trips.”
The event has added a new section in Hall 1 called Zoom by Fatex, dedicated to high-end subcontractors, as part of its effort to offer buyers new and distinct goods and services.
“Whereas all our other [Première Vision Pluriel] salons present product, for the first time we’re proposing firms armed with sophisticated manufacturing savoir faire,” said Pasquet.
The service, which targets manufacturers located close to Europe’s leading mills, is primarily geared toward the Euro-Med zone, including Mauritius and Madagascar. But Pasquet stressed the project in no way excludes American distributors and brands.
“Many Americans manufacture in countries such as Morocco. The idea is to propose firms that are coherent with our textiles offer [in terms of quality],” he said. “Sometimes brands get so distracted by other parts of their business, such as marketing, that they overlook the importance of the originality of their product. It’s vital to start focusing on designs that will excite interest in the consumer. If there is to be a brand personality, then there has to be more direct involvement in the selection of fabric and methods of [production].”
Zoom by Fatex will feature 31 mills handpicked by a selection committee on the basis of their creative capacities, turnaround cycles and financial health. Firms selected include Brisbane Moss, which produces traditional British velvets, wools and techno tartan cottons, coated with weatherproof Teflon and Windproof properties; Gentili, an artisan Italian silk manufacturer, and Hyosung, a Japanese firm specializing in high-tech fabrics made from polyester fibers and recycled polyamide.
Woolmark will also unveil its new drip-dry Showerclean suit at Première Vision, while parent company Australian Wool Innovation will inaugurate a new branding strategy at a press conference on Sept. 25. Craig Walsh, ceo of AWI, will unveil the organization’s new campaign and logo at the event, as well as a new brand architecture for the various wool gradings.
Among prominent textiles trends at the fair, according to fashion director Pascaline Wilhelm, is a move toward thick, weighty fabrics with supple hands.
“They allow for heavy, rigid, round forms but remain supple. They’re firm but at the same time very soft and reassuring,” she said, adding sporting fabrics are also being mixed with a number of high-end fabrics. “I call it sporting couture, where techno activewear fabrics are coupled with daily fabrics such as wool, cotton and viscose. Foam-bonding and elasticity are also now being adapted to luxury fabrics.”
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews
“Stranger Things” is getting a new cast member for season 2. Meet @sadiesink_, the 15-year-old who will be joining the Netflix series for its new season. You may recognize her from “The Glass Castle” with Brie Larson and Woody Harrelson, but the Texas native’s next role goes in an entirely different direction. She describes her character, Max, as “a rough and tumble skater girl [who] becomes friends with the boys at school.” The second season debuts on October 27. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdeye
Amid the Harvey Weinstein controversy, there’s another sector that’s being put under the spotlight for sexual abuse: the modeling industry. While rumors about abuse and sexual harassment of female and male models — and the photographers, agents and others who perpetrated it — have circulated within the fashion world for years, model @cameronrussell started posting stories from models on Instagram last week about abusive situations they’ve encountered — from sexual harassment and molestation to attempted rape. Over 75 have weighed in so far. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews
To celebrate its 16th anniversary, @dylanscandybar tapped designers and celebrities to create mosaics out of candy. The mosaics will be auctioned off to support the philanthropic cause of each participant’s choice. Pictured here is the mural created by @aliceandolivia's Stacey Bendet. For a first look at some of the other artwork being unveiled tonight, go to WWD.com. #wwdeye
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye