Fur. Suede. Double-faced wool. They’re generally suited to winter months—unless, that is, you’ve seen the most recent spring collections. Designers turned to richer, heavier fabrics and darker, deeper hues—a direction possibly influenced by Miuccia Prada. For spring 2013, she made a strong statement with floral fur coats. For this spring, other houses noticeably upped their fur quotient, and several, like Proenza Schouler and Junya Watanabe, also played with suedes.
“The clothes deliver in January, which says it all,” said Proenza Schouler’s Lazaro Hernandez. “Everyone we know, including ourselves, wants to buy something and wear it that night. We are not like our parents where we buy something and hold on to it for six months, and then wear it. So, collections nowadays are a bit more seasonless. We have seen fur for spring, though no swimsuits for fall—yet.”
During a preview of his spring collection, Marc Jacobs explained the darker turn. “We all felt like, we’re not going to do all white—we don’t wear white. We wear navy, we wear gray, we wear black. So we thought we would skip all of that light, summer fare in favor of a darker Gotham.”
Stores see business reasons for the turn. “With earlier deliveries, some of the items we saw on the runways will come into stores in February, when it is still quite cold in many parts of the world,” said Saks Fifth Avenue senior fashion director Colleen Sherin.
Barneys New York senior fashion director Tomoko Ogura agreed: “The market and climate in which our stores exist is diverse, so having an eclectic offering in fabric and color is a positive thing.”
Breaking: @cushnieetochs’ co-founders @carlycushnie and @ochsmichelle are parting ways. After a 10-year run, Ochs is leaving the brand. Get the full story on WWD.com – link in bio. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
@maybelline’s Kanako Takase had snow bunnies in mind when creating the beauty look for @philipppleininternational. Playing off of the bedazzled snowboards in the collection, Takase mixed two highlighters together for a luminous sheen. #wwdbeauty #nyfw (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
“There’s a huge gap between the old way of doing things and today. It takes the youth to help evolve that. You have to count on the kids today to help lead you into the future. A lot of these retailers are stuck in the past. Communication is the biggest thing,” said @ronniefieg of @kith on the youth’s role in retail. On Monday night, Jeff Staple moderated a keynote session with Fieg and @syresmith at Assembly - a series of workshops, talks and keynotes addressing topics or issues in the apparel industry. Head to WWD.com to read more advice from Fieg and what Smith thinks of his dad @willsmith’s Instagram account and sustainability (📷: @weston.wells)
@joansmalls closed the @michaelkors fall 2018 show in black sequined pants and a varsity T printed with 19 on the front and 81 on the back. 1981 – the year Kors went into business. #wwdfashion #nfyw (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
“You think your life is going to be a certain way, and nothing you thought would happen ends up happening. Never in my wildest dreams did I think I’d be designing clothes and working with Mickey Drexler, and building something I’m deeply proud of,” said Jenna Lyons. Nine months after leaving @jcrew, Lyons is exploring the meaning of happiness. Read the interview, where Lyons talks about reinvention and more on WWD.com – link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Farrell) #jennalyons #jcrew