The mounting evidence that modern men prefer their tailored clothing relaxed and refined has struck a chord at Luigi Bianchi Mantova, which is banking on a new range of trim, superlight sport coats for the Las Vegas market.
Best known for more classic suits made in its 100-year-old factory in Mantova, Italy, the brand has found increasing traction with its thin-fit, 7-inch drop suits — a trend that inspired execs to produce the new sport coat range. Sold under the Luigi Bianchi Mantova label, the new coats are typified by the Dream Jacket ($695 at retail), a coat without lining made in wrinkle-free wool that fits like a sweater. Lighter still is the Shirt Jacket ($495), a similarly snug cotton coat that has no interior components and comes in classic white-and-blue stripes, checkered prints and solids. For the guy who likes some meat to his sport coats, Bianchi offers the Master ($945), a lightly constructed, half-canvas coat that is slimmer through the waist and only 29 1/2 inches long.
Buoyed by the success of Vintage, the contemporary collection of slim-fit wovens based on prints and patterns from the shirtmaker’s archives, Gitman is launching a venture aimed at the contemporary market: Gitman Blue.
Think of Blue as a compromise between the uptown styles of the main label and its downtown sibling, Vintage. Blue’s style is old-school but, unlike Vintage, is not based on archival fabrics; the fit, too, is somewhere between the other two collections. Headed to Saks Fifth Avenue and Bloomingdale’s this fall, Gitman Blue’s spring collection features an expanded range of updated classics such as a thin-weight oxford cloth in solids and university stripes, a chambray program, as well as a range of micro-checks in poplin. Shirts retail for $165. Gitman also produced a line of thin, Seventies-inspired neckwear under the Blue label including pieces in wool and Mogador silk.
JOSEPH ABBOUD SPORTSWEAR
Since its launch in the Nineties, Joseph Abboud sportswear has been synonymous with two things: earth tones and texture. And while Modextil, the new licensee for the brand’s sportswear, plans to honor that heritage, the company also vowed to update the collection’s look.
That means less focus on muddy colors and the introduction of the color black as well as bright tones — both of which have long been verboten at the brand.
“We need to bring it a little more to today,” said Archie Etcovitch, Modextil’s vice president of product development, who oversees design at both Joseph Abboud and house brand Report.
Beyond color palette, the update will be articulated through details, as in the sport shirts, which are getting the contrast treatment on cuffs and collars, as well as updated fabrications, like the waxed cotton of the M65 jacket, the expanded linen program, the cobblestone cotton of the signature chino and a new replenishment program of stretch wovens.
Runways reiterated the importance of gossamer-weight outerwear for spring and clearly Allegri got the memo. The brand, which is making its first round on the American trade show circuit this summer, has tended to stylish Italian classics, but this season it’s borrowing a page from the tech market. Cue featherweight microfiber, double-twisted cottons with natural stretch, a chintz cotton that is both light- and water-repellant, and plenty of smart looking nylon. These contemporary materials are going into classic tailored styles like rain-worthy trenches and raglan Macintoshes, as well as more casual golf jackets. Along with the light fabrics, Allegri has let some air out of its prices, too. Most coats now hover near $595.
The brand’s cousin, Allegri Sport, is giving men more options for the weekend, too, with two-in-one vest jackets, park-inspired rain slickers, hooded blousons and updated field jackets — all in lightweight nylon.
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews
“Stranger Things” is getting a new cast member for season 2. Meet @sadiesink_, the 15-year-old who will be joining the Netflix series for its new season. You may recognize her from “The Glass Castle” with Brie Larson and Woody Harrelson, but the Texas native’s next role goes in an entirely different direction. She describes her character, Max, as “a rough and tumble skater girl [who] becomes friends with the boys at school.” The second season debuts on October 27. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdeye
Amid the Harvey Weinstein controversy, there’s another sector that’s being put under the spotlight for sexual abuse: the modeling industry. While rumors about abuse and sexual harassment of female and male models — and the photographers, agents and others who perpetrated it — have circulated within the fashion world for years, model @cameronrussell started posting stories from models on Instagram last week about abusive situations they’ve encountered — from sexual harassment and molestation to attempted rape. Over 75 have weighed in so far. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews
To celebrate its 16th anniversary, @dylanscandybar tapped designers and celebrities to create mosaics out of candy. The mosaics will be auctioned off to support the philanthropic cause of each participant’s choice. Pictured here is the mural created by @aliceandolivia's Stacey Bendet. For a first look at some of the other artwork being unveiled tonight, go to WWD.com. #wwdeye
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
“Everyone is talking about how the retail industry is struggling, but I think it’s an incredible time because brands who are doing something different and innovative are setting themselves up for the future,” said @adamgoldston, who founded the luxury athletic brand @apl with his brother @ryangoldsten. The Goldston’s are part of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables. See the rest of the list on WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
@eyeswoon blogger Athena Calderone debuted her first-ever cookbook, “Cook Beautiful,” which is heavily centered on the presentation and visual expression of food. Pictured here are her miso glazed carrots from the book. Get the recipe on WWD.com. (📷: @johnny_miller_) #wwdeye