WASHINGTON — A coalition of apparel and textile groups bracing for the end of the quota system next year has made a formal request for the Bush administration to go after surging imports from Vietnam.
The group wants the U.S. to impose quotas on seven additional apparel and textile import categories with a combined value of $527.8 million.
In a letter to Jim Leonard, deputy assistant secretary of apparel and textiles at the U.S. Department of Commerce, a copy of which was obtained by WWD, five national associations and three state associations are imploring the government to impose quotas on cotton and man-made fiber dressing gowns, cotton terry towels, men’s and boys’ wool suits, lightweight polyester filament yarn fabric and men’s and women’s man-made fiber coats from Vietnam.
The U.S. implemented a bilateral textile agreement with Vietnam in May 2003, imposing 25 quota limits covering 38 apparel and textile products and allowing categories to increase 7 percent annually for cotton and man-made fiber products and 2 percent annually for wool.
Vietnam is not a member of the World Trade Organization and will be one of a handful of countries remaining under quota until it joins the global trade body.
“We are simply seeking to ask the government to use the safeguard mechanism in the Vietnamese bilateral agreement because they are growing considerably in these categories and they are contributing to the disruption that exists within the U.S. industry,” said Auggie Tantillo, executive director of the American Manufacturing Trade Action Coalition, one of the associations making the request.
The associations have asked the U.S. to invoke a consultation mechanism in the bilateral agreement to establish import controls. If the U.S. determines the imports from Vietnam are causing market disruption, it will request consultations with the Vietnamese to negotiate limits for the categories and impose a 7.5 percent growth cap on cotton and man-made fiber imports and a 6 percent growth cap on wool products.
A separate coalition has filed nine China safeguard petitions seeking to extend quota restraints on certain apparel and textile categories next year and the Bush administration has thus far accepted six for a full review.
In this latest quota chapter, AMTAC, the National Council of Textile Organizations, National Cotton Council, National Textile Machinery Association, and the North Carolina Manufacturers Association, South Carolina Manufacturers Association and Georgia Textile Manufacturers Association claim Vietnam needs to be restrained.While total textile and apparel imports from Vietnam fell for the year ended Aug. 31 to 804 million square meters equivalent, primarily due to a decrease in quota categories, imports not controlled by quotas surged, the groups stated.
Vietnam was the 15th-largest supplier of apparel and textiles to the U.S. with a 1.8 percent share of total U.S. imports, based on August data.
Imports of cotton and man-made fiber dressing gowns from Vietnam rose 99 percent for the year ended Aug. 30, while imports of polyester filament yarn fabric skyrocketed 650 percent and imports of man-made fiber coats rose 111 percent.
Supermodel @helenachristensen teamed up with longtime friend and designer @camillastaerk on a joint @paredeyewear collaboration. The lineup features three styles and 11 offerings, all of which embody a vintage feel. Get all the details on how they celebrated the collab on WWD.com. #wwdaccessories #wwdeye (📷: @slovekinpics)
“It’s a hard industry to keep motivated, as well, so finding different subjects and people is what makes it worth it – when you’re like, oh, I’ve met great people, I feel like I’ve done something good, and I feel proud of having done this,” said French actress Stacy Martin on being grateful for the variety of roles she’s take on. Read @ktauer’s full interview with Martin on her her latest film “Godard Mon Amour.” #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
After showing in front of the Eiffel Tower for his last two women’s ready-to-wear collection, it looks like @anthonyvaccarello may be heading to the Big Apple. Sources say the designer will stage his next @ysl show in NYC on June 6. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
EXCLUSIVE: Two and half months after John Targon, cofounder and codesigner of Baja East, was hired as creative director of the contemporary division at Marc Jacobs, he has left the company, WWD has learned. Marc Jacobs International, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, confirmed Targon’s departure in a statement: “John Targon is a talented designer and we appreciate the work he has done here. Ultimately working together did not make sense for the brand and we wish him the best.” Read the story by @jessiredale, link in bio. #wwdnews
@theluxurycollection is officially launching a collection, tapping Sofia Sanchez de Betak for the capsule. Over 30 styles will be featured in the Chufy x The Luxury Collection, debuting next month at Bergdorf Goodman, The Webster, FiveStory and more. De Betak, known as “@chufy,” drew inspiration for the collection from her trips to Japan in the past year #wwdfashion
@lhd, founder and CEO of @thewebster, has teamed up with @lebonmarcherivegauche for the European launch of her ready-to-wear line, LHD. The launch will come with an exclusive pop-up opening today that’s set to run through May 20. Located on the second floor, it carries her debut Miami-themed resort collection, launched in November as see-now-buy-now. #wwdfashion