This fall's crop of runway fabrics channeled past moments of uncertainty.Astrakhan topcoats referenced the Russian Revolution and World War II, while corduroy blazers mimicked the U.S.-manufactured, mass-produced variety popular with the working class in the late 1800s during the Long Depression. “People want that security right now,” said Gilded Age designer Stefan Miljanic. “Corduroy sparks emotions. It’s the warm, soft but gutsy feel that makes it an essential fall fabric.”
Miljanic drew from images of sport coats with leather patched-elbows, worn by pipe-smoking Harvard professors in the Sixties for a rustic feel. “I love the thicker cord blazer,” he said. For a more sophisticated look, a burgundy stretch corduroy hunter jacket had an iridescent sheen. Band of Outsiders took a similar approach, with designer Scott Sternberg choosing a waxed treatment for a stiff construction and a memory for wear. “It’s a suit for now, for a guy like me,” he said. “I’ve done corduroy before, but now I’m doing it in a better, in a fresher, more confident way, like including Ultrasuede elbow patches.” In Paris, Junya Watanabe kept his corduroy pants short and relaxed, paired with puffy vests and brown suede-pocketed tweed jackets for a taste of pure Americana.
Scarlet-hued corduroy created the ultimate juxtaposition on the Paris runway with an Armand Basi suit, its narrow wales resembling velvet from afar. The interpretation was more in tune with the defi nition coined in 1700s France, corde du roi, or “cord of the king.” At that time the fabric was woven of silk and used for royal servants (although some surmised a British manufacturer was just trying to glamorize his fabric with a fancy name). Hermès had its own take on brazen red in a blazer paired with simple black accents, simply crisp and luxurious.
For outerwear, sophisticated pieces on the runway came in the form of astrakhan, a heavy, curly textile that can either represent karakul lamb fur or piled mohair yarn and a combination of cotton or wool for the ground warp. Thom Browne chose a gray variety for his top hats. “The gray is quite handsome. I’d love to see this old man kind of hat on a young guy,” he said. Confessing to not really being a fur kind of fellow, Browne chose to use it sparingly as an accent piece on a utilitarian jumpsuit. “Astrakhan adds a couture feeling in a masculine way. Anyone can wear it that has the confidence to pull it off,” he added. The roots of astrakhan hats delineate to Soviet officers in WWII.
D&G kept the Russian theme alive in Milan with an ode to Dr. Zhivago and the Russian Revolution that took the form of a long brass-buttoned peacoat and black astrakhan lapel. Juun.J dressed a scrumptious leather bomber with astrakhan lining peeking from beneath. Ungaro kept it short and casual, while Wintle dressed it up as a tuxedo with fancy piping.
Going all out were Ferragamo and Hugo Boss, sending long black astrakhan car coats down the runway. Gianfranco Ferré one-upped the group in Milan, adding a funnel-neck for a modern edge. Giuliano Fujiwara took it full throttle, pairing an epaulet-adorned coat with black astrakhan pants for a full body look, surely not for the timid. Even more shocking was a shorter version in sunshine yellow. Hardly a recession hue.
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews
@prada is introducing a new project at its men’s fall 2018 show this Sunday: “Prada Invites.” The fashion house invited four celebrated creative minds – @ronanaerwanbouroullec, Konstantin Grcic, @herzogdemeuron and @rem.koolhaas – to each create a unique item with its iconic nylon material. The designs will be unveiled on the runway show, which will take place at the company’s warehouse in Viale Ortles 25. #wwdfashion #mfwm (📷: @martinocarrera)
@kering_official is spinning off its stake in puma in an effort to focus on its luxury brands, the brand operator announced yesterday. “We are proud to have supported the turnaround of Puma, which now has unrivaled capabilities to take full advantage of the specific dynamics of its global markets and is poised to achieve substantial growth,” said François-Henri Pinault, Kering’s chief executive officer and chairman. Artémis will become a “long-term strategic shareholder” of Puma with a 29 percent stake. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
The fashion world mourns for celebrated street style photographer, Nabile Quenum, who died at age 32 in Paris.
Quenum, creator of the fashion blog “J’ai Perdu Ma Veste,” was a fashion week fixture, and regularly shot for New York magazine’s The Cut, among other outlets, and brands such as Louis Vuitton, Moncler and Adidas. He was also actively involved in the #NoFreePhotos initiative, which kicked off in the fall. Read more about Quenum in @kbsmoke's story on WWD.com. #wwdnews
@verwanggang and @maisonladuree have teamed up on a dessert collab called Vera Wang Pour Ladurée. The collection, which launched this week, features a specialty macaroon, as well as a wedding cake inspired by one of the designer’s gowns. “I could not imagine a more delicate or sophisticated creation to grace any couple’s celebration,” said Wang. #wwdfashion