This fall's crop of runway fabrics channeled past moments of uncertainty.Astrakhan topcoats referenced the Russian Revolution and World War II, while corduroy blazers mimicked the U.S.-manufactured, mass-produced variety popular with the working class in the late 1800s during the Long Depression. “People want that security right now,” said Gilded Age designer Stefan Miljanic. “Corduroy sparks emotions. It’s the warm, soft but gutsy feel that makes it an essential fall fabric.”
Miljanic drew from images of sport coats with leather patched-elbows, worn by pipe-smoking Harvard professors in the Sixties for a rustic feel. “I love the thicker cord blazer,” he said. For a more sophisticated look, a burgundy stretch corduroy hunter jacket had an iridescent sheen. Band of Outsiders took a similar approach, with designer Scott Sternberg choosing a waxed treatment for a stiff construction and a memory for wear. “It’s a suit for now, for a guy like me,” he said. “I’ve done corduroy before, but now I’m doing it in a better, in a fresher, more confident way, like including Ultrasuede elbow patches.” In Paris, Junya Watanabe kept his corduroy pants short and relaxed, paired with puffy vests and brown suede-pocketed tweed jackets for a taste of pure Americana.
Scarlet-hued corduroy created the ultimate juxtaposition on the Paris runway with an Armand Basi suit, its narrow wales resembling velvet from afar. The interpretation was more in tune with the defi nition coined in 1700s France, corde du roi, or “cord of the king.” At that time the fabric was woven of silk and used for royal servants (although some surmised a British manufacturer was just trying to glamorize his fabric with a fancy name). Hermès had its own take on brazen red in a blazer paired with simple black accents, simply crisp and luxurious.
For outerwear, sophisticated pieces on the runway came in the form of astrakhan, a heavy, curly textile that can either represent karakul lamb fur or piled mohair yarn and a combination of cotton or wool for the ground warp. Thom Browne chose a gray variety for his top hats. “The gray is quite handsome. I’d love to see this old man kind of hat on a young guy,” he said. Confessing to not really being a fur kind of fellow, Browne chose to use it sparingly as an accent piece on a utilitarian jumpsuit. “Astrakhan adds a couture feeling in a masculine way. Anyone can wear it that has the confidence to pull it off,” he added. The roots of astrakhan hats delineate to Soviet officers in WWII.
D&G kept the Russian theme alive in Milan with an ode to Dr. Zhivago and the Russian Revolution that took the form of a long brass-buttoned peacoat and black astrakhan lapel. Juun.J dressed a scrumptious leather bomber with astrakhan lining peeking from beneath. Ungaro kept it short and casual, while Wintle dressed it up as a tuxedo with fancy piping.
Going all out were Ferragamo and Hugo Boss, sending long black astrakhan car coats down the runway. Gianfranco Ferré one-upped the group in Milan, adding a funnel-neck for a modern edge. Giuliano Fujiwara took it full throttle, pairing an epaulet-adorned coat with black astrakhan pants for a full body look, surely not for the timid. Even more shocking was a shorter version in sunshine yellow. Hardly a recession hue.
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews