By  on June 21, 1994

NEW YORK -- Mixed textures will be a key fabric story for fall-winter 1995, according to Alison Webb, manager of creative services for Wellman Inc.'s fiber division.

Specialty yarns and fabric finishing and construction will all play important roles in creating fashion looks for items, she told more than 150 representatives from mills, converters and retailers who attended "Viewpoint on Apparel, Fall/Winter 1995," a series of recent presentations at Wellman's sales and marketing offices here.

Textures will be mixed in such combinations as rugged with luxurious, matte with shine and rustic with soft. One example she displayed on boards was Wellman's washable wool combined with its Spunnaire polyester in discreet surface interest weaves, such as a cavalry twill and a subtly patterned crepe.

Relief textures, such as crinkles, puckers and raised patterns, provided surface interest for solids made of Fortrel MicroSpun, Fortrel polyester and rayon high-twist crepe crinkle.

There will be a return to color for fall 1995, Webb said, in an extended palette ranging from frosty neutrals to muted midtones to softened and blackened darks.

The primary stories are reddened browns, maroons, burgundies and plums. Another group Webb sees as important consists of soft muted moss greens and blued teals, and a third one ranges from winter white and taupe to cocoa and chocolate.

There are two levels of bright color. One is made up of light, almost fluorescent brights such as lemon, fuchsia and orange, for active and junior accents.

The other features rich, saturated dark brights, including deep cerise, purple and lapis blue.

Turning to silhouettes, Webb named four groups:

Harmony Fusion, a category melding activewear with ready-to-wear, is the most exciting direction, said Webb. Protective and performance fabrics, such as Fortrel EcoSpun fleece and body-hugging compact knits, were stressed for use in such looks as A-line skirts and outerwear jackets.

Traditional Harmony blends city career wear with rugged casualwear in a sophisticated take on back-to-school. This casual approach to dressing shows Tartan plaids in unusual colorations for unconstructed tweed jackets and pleated skirts, and worn fair isle pattern sweaters.

Frozen Harmony plays up soft layering, emphasizing soft-touch fabrics in soft colors such as winter white, warm browns and cool grays worked with taupes. Lightweight fleeces, rib knits, brushed jerseys and sweat knits contribute to the look, offering warmth without weight.A Dream of Harmony focuses on romantic, fluid, sensuous silhouettes. Long tunics over printed sheer skirts and fluid pantsuits were highlighted in velvets, velours and pannes combined with floral prints with slightly Oriental overtones. MicroSpun and rayon blends, such as fluid gabardines and satin constructions, were featured.

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