MILAN — Yarn makers at the recent Filo trade show turned to technology as a way to keep ahead, adding new high-tech fibers to their assortments and investing in speeding their manufacturing processes.
Natural, earthy tones like chocolate, sand and terra-cotta were dominant, but there were also bright bursts of violet, lilac and pink for the fall-winter 2006 season. Several firms pushed blends of natural fibers like wool and cotton, with synthetics such as nylon and metallic fibers. The focus was on innovation in dyeing or spinning techniques.
“There are some very interesting developments in terms of combining fibers and twisting them together,” said attendee Jim Conway, chairman of Ireland-based Emblem Weavers.
The show wrapped up its two-day run on April 1, attracting 1,802 visitors and 38 exhibitors.
Iafil, a Milan-based mill, showed a chunky cotton and alpaca yarn that was tinted on just the outer surface, creating a smoky, Nordic effect.
Zegna Baruffa’s seasonal offerings included wool bouclé in colors like chocolate brown and caramel as well as carded yarns for men’s wear looks.
“The buyer needs the creative versatility of a large color range,” said Luisella Ajmone Grosso, a Zegna Baruffa sales manager.
Botto Poala was pushing materials like wool, alpaca blends and cashmere in natural earthy tones such as beige and browns for classic men’s wear looks, but it’s also turning out fibers in brightly accented hues such as violet and turquoise.
Sales manager Stefano Botto Poala echoed a common refrain at the fair that yarn makers are striving to speed the spinning process to keep pace with fashion’s quickened rhythm.
“Orders are coming in later but clients want [the product] earlier. We are trying to structure ourselves better to respond,” he said, noting the company is tinkering with its stocking and dyeing methods and churning out smaller yarn quantities to better meet market demands.
Maclodio Filati was trying to woo customers with innovation, such as a blend of Lenpur — a fiber with a cellulosic base, similar to rayon — cashmere and elasticized polyester that absorbs humidity. The firm suggested that the yarn would work well for a bathrobe.“There’s been a resurgence in demand for materials that are a bit less basic,” said Andrea Ghio, a Maclodio sales representative. “Cashmere blended with cotton or viscose combined with Lenpur are kind of our specialty.”
@kering_official is spinning off its stake in puma in an effort to focus on its luxury brands, the brand operator announced yesterday. “We are proud to have supported the turnaround of Puma, which now has unrivaled capabilities to take full advantage of the specific dynamics of its global markets and is poised to achieve substantial growth,” said François-Henri Pinault, Kering’s chief executive officer and chairman. Artémis will become a “long-term strategic shareholder” of Puma with a 29 percent stake. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
The fashion world mourns for celebrated street style photographer, Nabile Quenum, who died at age 32 in Paris.
Quenum, creator of the fashion blog “J’ai Perdu Ma Veste,” was a fashion week fixture, and regularly shot for New York magazine’s The Cut, among other outlets, and brands such as Louis Vuitton, Moncler and Adidas. He was also actively involved in the #NoFreePhotos initiative, which kicked off in the fall. Read more about Quenum in @kbsmoke's story on WWD.com. #wwdnews
@verwanggang and @maisonladuree have teamed up on a dessert collab called Vera Wang Pour Ladurée. The collection, which launched this week, features a specialty macaroon, as well as a wedding cake inspired by one of the designer’s gowns. “I could not imagine a more delicate or sophisticated creation to grace any couple’s celebration,” said Wang. #wwdfashion
“I’m Russian and I love to use all these little tricks that I got from my grandma or my mom. We didn’t have a lot of money for creams or anything like that so we would use a garden as a beauty treatment regime. We’d put cucumber in the fridge and do a cucumber mask,” says model @irinashayk on one of her beauty hacks. WWD asked celebs what their go-to self-care rituals are. See what Naomie Harris, Freida Pinto and more said on WWD.com. #wwdeye #wwdbeauty (📷: @zefashioninsider)
Exclusive: @viktorandrolf are teaming up with @Zalando on a collection made from leftover clothing. The lineup, which lands at the retailer February 1, includes 17 pieces adorned with sliced up and repurposed overstock from the retailer’s private label collection. Pictured here is a look from the collection –– see more on WWD.com. #wwdfashion #wwdnews
@duewestnyc is the newest bar joining the collection of intimate neighborhood-focused spaces in the West Village. The cocktail menu, which includes bitters and syrups made in-house, offers a “Build Your Own Old-Fashioned” – like the one pictured here – where guests can choose from a list of spirits and unexpected sugars and bitters. #wwdeye
Spotted at last night’s National Board of Review gala in NYC: Angelina Jolie. Jolie – along with Meryl Streep, @lupitanyongo and more – continued the all-black dress code from Sunday’s Golden Globes. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)