Maison Margiela Couture Spring 2016

Maison Margiela Couture Spring 2016

At Maison Margiela, John Galliano has found his own middle, one grounded in self-control rather than compromise.

Maison Margiela Men's RTW Fall 2016

Maison Margiela Men’s RTW Fall 2016

Super-tight cycling shorts styled with nylon bombers evokes a Nineties feel.

Maison Margiela Pre-Fall 2016

Maison Margiela Pre-Fall 2016

John Galliano made it central to his pre-fall collection.

Maison Margiela RTW Spring 2016

Maison Margiela RTW Spring 2016

Subversion and humor are aspects of Martin Margiela’s legacy that John Galliano magnified with his ravishing spring collection — a dressy affair that equally exalted the English designer’s theatrical, couture chops.

Maison Margiela Couture Fall 2015

Maison Margiela Couture Fall 2015

John Galliano’s fall couture collection for Maison Margiela was a masterwork of invention and craft.

Maison Margiela Men's RTW Spring 2016

Maison Margiela Men’s RTW Spring 2016

Forget deconstruction — clean chic is taking over at Maison Margiela, which conspicuously steered away from its signature style for spring into a surprisingly polished direction.

Maison Margiela Resort 2016

Maison Margiela Resort 2016

In his collection for Maison Margiela, John Galliano played with proportion, sensuality and quite a few trompe l'oeil effects — to chic effect.

Maison Margiela RTW Fall 2015

Maison Margiela RTW Fall 2015

The model clutched her paper-bag purse like it was the most precious thing on Earth and marched headlong down the runway, as if tightening into a strong wind.

Maison Margiela Men's RTW Fall 2015

Maison Margiela Men’s RTW Fall 2015

The collection walked the like between Seventies disco-glam and fine tailoring.

Maison Martin Margiela RTW Spring 2015

Maison Martin Margiela RTW Spring 2015

The not-so-little house of conceptual fashion and deconstruction has decamped to the prairie for spring.