‘The Mystery of the Lone Wolf Killer’ Author Unni Turrettini Talks Preventing Terrorism, New Peace Prize Book
Our biased guide to everything you need for summer 2014.
A guide to a highly unproductive summer
This story first appeared in the June 2, 2014 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
09 Maxim’s has hosted everyone from Marcel Proust to John Travolta. Tonight it’s the place for the Bizarre Love Triangle party, featuring DJ Emmanuel Caurel and Julien Lapierre. [3 Rue Royale, Paris, France]
12 Yeezus! This is a good lineup. Kanye West, Jack White, Elton John, Chromeo, and Vampire Weekend play Bonnaroo. No shoes necessary. Through June 15. [New Bushy Branch Road, Manchester, Tennessee]
14 Certain men don’t mind the fact that steven_ seagal owns custom-made bulletproof kimonos. These are the men who won’t want to miss Seagalogy: A Steven Seagal Movie Marathon at the Cinefamily movie theater. [611 North Fairfax Avenue, Los Angeles, California]
16 Do you like tiny cucumber sandwiches, gin, and ponies? How about just gin? Queen Elizabeth II historically presents the trophy to the winner of the Cartier Queen’s Cup at the Guards Polo Club. This is twenty-two-goal polo at its finest, gents. Also, there will be gin. [Smiths Lawn/Windsor Great Park, Egham, Surrey, United Kingdom]
21 There are two pr ecepts concerning men’s attire at the Royal Ascot races: One must wear black or gray morning dress, and cravats are not permitted. Both are in service of the event’s unspoken rule: The silliest article of clothing should be your date’s hat. [High Street, Ascot, Berkshire, United Kingdom]
26 Last year’s Serpentine Gallery Summer Party hosted a who’s who of British fashion: Christopher Kane, Edie Campbell, Daphne Guinness, and Georgia May Jagger. This year’s privileged guests will be the first to see Chilean architect Smiljan Radic’s presentation of what The Guardian described as “a cow’s udder stuffed with newspaper and wrapped in strips of masking tape.” [Kensington Gardens, London, United Kingdom]
30 For those concerned that we are exiting the golden age of television, The Cosmopolitans should end all doubts. It’s from Whit Stillman, director of Metropolitan, Barcelona, and the surprising Damsels in Distress. Pilot premieres tonight, on Amazon.
01 The father of the Cronut, Dominique Ansel, will deliver the keynote address at this year’s 2014 Sofi
Awards ceremony and Fancy Food Show in New York. We want to reiterate: The man sired the Cronut, which makes what he has to say worth listening to. [Jacob K. Javits Center, 655 West Thirty-fourth Street, New York, New York]
06 The Henley Royal Regatta is, without question, the most well-known regatta in the world. And it takes place in Henley, the town the shirt was named after. No, you should not wear a Henley to view the races. And, frankly, you should not have to be told that. [Henley-on-Thames, Oxfordshire, United Kingdom]
11 Early word from the film- festival circuit has it that this may be the best movie of the year: _boyhood, from director Richard Linklater. Shot over twelve years, with Ellar Coltrane in the role of a boy who goes from the first grade to his final year of high school. With Ethan Hawke and Patricia Arquette. If nothing else, it will counteract summer-blockbuster fatigue.
24 Game buffs, sci-fi gurus, and fantasy-film creators gather at the biggest comic-book convention in the U.S., Comic-Con International. Break out your best Khal Drogo costume and search for the Mother of Dragons in the masses. [San Diego Convention Center, 111 West Harbor Drive, San Diego, California]
25 Future Islands performs at Splendour in the Grass in New South Wales, Australia. Other acts include Interpol, Childish Gambino, Sky Ferreira, and Foster the People. No need to call the babysitter: The festival offers baby-changing facilities, face painters, and a jumpy castle. Through July 27. [North Byron Parklands, 46 Jones Road, Wooyung, Australia]
27 Take your 1969 DB6 to the Aston Martin Car Rally at Burghley Castle. If anything were to happen to the ’59 DB4, you’d never forgive yourself. [Stamford, Lincolnshire, United Kingdom]
02 Check out the Men’s Prime: Vans U.S. Open of Surfing, in Huntington Beach, California, where Julian Wilson, Tiago Pires, and Michel Bourez are scheduled to compete in what is called the “Super Bowl of surfing.” [Main Street and Pacific Coast Highway, Huntington Beach, California]
03 Founded by Klaus Biesenbach, director of MoMA PS1, the Berlin Biennale “experiments, identifies, and critically examines the latest trends in the art world.” To put it in plainer terms: It’s like Art Basel, only weirder.
04 Every summer, Barbadians earmark five weeks—five weeks!—to celebrate the end of the sugar harvest. The Crop Over Festival has been described as a moment in which dignity takes a vacation, and it’s fast becoming famous because rihanna attends in carnivalesque outfits that look like they were stolen from Princess Leia. [Bridgetown, Barbados]
12 The first day of red-grouse season in England and Scotland has been named, deservedly, The Glorious Twelfth. Fees for a day on the moor run around 32,000 British pounds, so before making arrangements, one should ask: How much do I like shooting red grouse? The question, of course, is rhetorical. There is nothing you love more than shooting red grouse. [E.J. Churchill Shooting Ground, Buckinghamshire, United Kingdom]
22 Sure, securing tickets for Shakespeare in the Park takes half the morning and all your patience, but John Lithgow is playing King Lear. Should be worth it. Through August 17. [Delacorte Theater, 81 Central Park West, New York, New York]
27 To prepare for La Tomatina Food Festival, the business owners in Buñol, Spain, board up their storefronts—and often the windows on the second and third stories. They know. They’ve experienced what happens when more than a hundred tons of overripe tomatoes are deliv ered to a crowd of forty thousand people drunk on sangria. [Plaza del Pueblo, Buñol, Spain]
31 Meet your very own Mistress of Pain at the annual Montreal Fetish Weekend. Fantasy-filled Saturday offers workshops at Hotel Gouverneur and something called the Latextacy Ball at the Telus Theater. BYOB: Bring your own bondage. From August 27 through September 1. [1415 Rue Saint-Hubert, Montreal, Quebec]
THE BUSINESS OF CASUAL
The Céline effect
When a man names his brand Greats, it’s safe to say he has confidence in his product. But Jon Buscemi—one of the company’s founders, along with Ryan Babenzien—is more than confident. He is convinced. And rightfully so: Everyone from street-style stars to lawyers—lawyers!—are wearing slip-ons these days. Here, Buscemi takes us through the evolution.
M: Where are we in the footwear industry right now?
Jon Buscemi: Renaissance is the only way to describe it. The Chuck Taylor was a trendy thing when we were kids, in the eighties. Now, it’s an American classic that is recognized from the highest level of fashion—Margiela whites—to Pendleton. The kids are in control now. That’s what it is, really. Thirtysomethings are running the world. This is the sneaker generation. My fucking lawyer wears Cole Haan LunarGrands to investor meetings. It is a goddamn sneaker, for heaven’s sake. I love it!
M: Many brands are revamping the slip-on. Céline, Givenchy. Greats even collaborated with Nick Wooster on the Trophy Pack
slip-on. What was your inspiration?
J.B.: The slip-on is antiestablishment, for the most part. It was a shoe that came from the fifties and was popularized by the businessman barbecuing in his backyard. Then there was the Riviera in the sixties and seventies, and Vans made it popular in the eighties, obviously. Then music bands wore it, and there was the checkerboard-print one from Fast Times at Ridgemont High. It was very anti. Now it’s anti–brown shoe or anti-mainstream. When you see Nick wearing a slip-on with a custom Lardini suit, you just get it. It’s a way of saying fuck you to the traditional menswear model. The inspiration behind Greats was all Nick. —Frederick Marfil
RICHARD CHAI’S MOTO-BOMBER
Upscale Americana from Andrew Marc
These days, luxury is where the action is. With an eye toward taking his highly popular brand to the upper reaches of fashion, Andrew Marc has enlisted designer Richard Chai as creative consultant, and the transition from department store to runway has been seamless. Our favorite result of the collaboration is called the Knox, a unique, lightweight hybrid of a motorcycle jacket and a bomber that sells for $1,195. “Andrew Marc is an American heritage brand that has a sexiness behind it and a certain toughness,” says Chai, a winner of the Council of Fashion Designers of America’s Swarovski Award for menswear, in 2010. “In designing my first collection with them, I wanted to do leather styles that translated those characteristics, but not in literal moto-jacket silhouettes. The aim was to maintain those core brand elements of Andrew Marc and update them in new, modern ways.” —Frederick Marfil
MUST RISING STAR
MEET BOBBY ABLEY
London’s street sensation
Bobby Abley, a London-based designer who is building momentum, worked at Alexander McQueen and Jeremy Scott before launching his own label. He creates upbeat, sporty collections with cartoon prints, witty slogans, and his signature teddy bear, which is derived from a special stuffed toy that once belonged to his mother. “I don’t want to look at anyone as competition because I think it’s good to see the other people who are better than you at things,” Abley says. “Everyone does “his or her own thing, and I think I should respect that. I’ve got my thing going on.” —Lorelei Marfil
MUST SUMMER SUITS
LIGHT IN AUGUST
An elegant response to the heat
Photographs by Rodolfo Martinez
Grooming by Andy Starkweather at LVA represents, using Starkweather Organic.
Models: James Lasky at Click, Sam at IMG, and Stirling at Fusion. Fashion assistant: Mercedes PSl Bass.
PUSS N BOOTS
Norah Jones’ rootsy trio
This summer’s all-purpose soundtrack comes courtesy of Puss n Boots, a twangy, Brooklyn-based trio formed in 2008 by Norah Jones and two musical pals, Catherine Popper (former bass player and vocalist in Ryan Adams and the Cardinals) and singer-songwriter Sasha Dobson. Their debut album, No Fools, No Fun, from the Blue Note label, sounds as good at parties as it does in your headphones. “There’s no pressure on this project, which is why it is so loose and fun,” says Jones.
M: How did you come up with the
Norah Jones: Well, I don’t think we had it for a long time. We had a bunch of fake names we would go under.
Sasha Dobson: Most of them were too dirty.
Sasha: Hand Pussy.
Norah: That didn’t actually happen.
Catherine Popper: Dixie Fried.
All: Dixie Fried!
Sasha: That’s our first official name—who came up with Puss n Boots?
Norah: I don’t remember, but I remember when it finally stuck, when we sang harmonies with the guys from Wilco. Jeff Tweedy asked us how we would want to be introduced, and then he called us Puss n Boots, and we were like, “Yes!”
Sasha: I guess that’s our name!
Norah: I think we just found it funny because of the double meaning.
Catherine: It’s a double entendre that’s a little funny, but dirty.
Sasha: We can get away with it.
Norah: If you Google it, all you get is the cartoon.
Sasha: Or porn.
M: Any inaccuracies in the press that
you might like to address?
Sasha: We’re not gay! We kissed that one time. I’m joking.
Catherine: Ask us in the next six months.
Norah: None so far. [Knocks on a wooden stool.] —Frederick Marfil
MUST SUMMER PLAYLIST
A model collection
As one of the world’s top male models, Clément Chabernaud has a captivating gaze, killer eyebrows, a strong jaw—and ears finely tuned to Latin music. The Frenchman calls it “the best entertainment and cure,” and it plays almost nonstop at his New York apartment. Here, Chabernaud shares an eclectic playlist that spans many decades and styles, from classical and rap to French chansons. —Miles Socha
by Elvis Crespo
by Mala Rodríguez
“Symphony No. 25,”
by Ella Fitzgerald
“Ragazzo Della via Gluck,”
by Adriano Celentano
by Charles Trenet
by Georges Brassens
“Pa Que Se Lo Gozen,”
by Tego Calderón
by Django Reinhardt
“La Cholita de la Cumbia,”
by Los Yes Yes
THROWING SHADE IN STYLE
A Timeless Look From Shane Baum
“If something is designed right and made right, its life span may never end,” says designer Shane Baum, the founder of Leisure Society, a sportswear and eyewear brand perhaps best known for its sunglasses. This summer, try the distinctive Rodrigues model ($1,330), which is handmade in Japan out of pure titanium and plated in 24-karat gold.
Go Ahead, You Deserve It (We Think)
Floral prints are the rage for men this summer, but caveat emptor: You don’t want to get the wrong thing, which might give you the look of a guy who just stepped off a cruise ship. The new flowery shirts from Gucci creative director Frida Giannini are the way to go. They feel good against the skin, and the look is subtle without being too reserved. (T-shirt, $1,885)
MUST JEANS AND T-SHIRT
A Clean Look for Summer
The eighties had acid wash. The nineties had ripped denim. The aughts had jeans confusion. Now comes a reemergence of white denim, treated and distressed. Denim & Supply’s Carsville jeans ($70) have the right look and feel.
To go with it, try the white T-shirt from Vancouver-based brand Reigning Champ ($78 for a two-pack). This item is well made, with flat-locked seams and reinforced bar tacks, so it never has the unfinished look of an undergarment.
ART, COMEDY, AND LIFE
Weiwei, Hamm, and Dybek
Nobel Prize winner Yasunari Kawabata called them palm-of-the-hand stories. Other names are flash fiction, sudden fiction, micro fiction, short-shorts, snappers, and blasters. Stuart Dybek, one of the foremost practitioners of the very short story, is happy that no one has agreed on what to call them. “If you’re still arguing about a name,” he says, “it’s an indication that it really hasn’t settled into itself. For me, that’s a good thing. It means that there is a tremendous amount of possibility, and readers’ expectations aren’t set in stone.”
In one of his new collections, Ecstatic Cahoots (FSG, $11), Dybek offers fifty pieces of short fiction that run an average of three and a half pages and have been culled from thirty years of exploring the medium. Despite wanting to produce a collection like this for quite some time, the book came about partly because of a botched trip.
Almost every summer, he spends a month in the Florida Keys with fellow writer Tracy Kidder. “It’s always been a working vacation,” Dybek says. “I come down loaded with stuff.” They write and critique each other’s work in the morning and go spearfishing in the afternoon. One recent year, however, Kidder couldn’t make it because his mother, in her mid-nineties, had fallen ill. “I found myself alone for a month,” Dybek says. “I had this enormous amount of time, and I just started going through all those files. I suddenly realized I had a book. A lot of them I wanted to rewrite—you know, some of them were like rewriting the work of a kid—but I had a book.”
In fact, he had two books. In addition to Ecstatic Cahoots, Farrar, Straus and Giroux will publish Paper Lantern, which consists of nine Dybek stories averaging about twenty-five pages in length. Both books come out June 3. Dybek swears the dual release wasn’t his idea. “It made for a very hardworking year,” he says, by phone, during this year’s trip to the Keys. —Ben Cake
There are lots of great art books. Many of them are filled with beautiful pictures, and many of them are quite heavy. But few are as heavy as Ai Weiwei (Taschen, $7,500), because rarely do art books come with a marble stand forged from the imperial quarries of the Fangshan District of China. Produced in collaboration with Ai Weiwei, in his studio, this is more than just a 700-page book about one of the world’s preeminent creators of conceptual art. It is conceptual art. And it should be displayed as such. One word of advice, though: Prior to purchase, be sure you like where you live, because this piece would make moving a real headache.
Jon Hamm is not an author, but he did pose for the author photo (below) for Poking a Dead Frog: Conversations With Today’s Top Comedy Writers (Penguin Books, $18), by Mike Sacks. The book, which comes out June 24, includes entertaining, in-depth interviews with Amy Poehler, Adam McKay, Mel Brooks, Patton Oswalt, Bill Hader, and George Saunders, among others. Hamm took the time to sit for the picture not only because he is a big comedy fan (when not shooting Mad Men, he has been known to drop in at the Upright Citizens Brigade, either to watch or take part in improv) but also because he likes Sacks’ work. “It’s a good book,” Hamm says. “I get asked to do a lot of things, and sometimes I go ahead and do them.”
A CALL TO ARMS
A timepiece should be a work of art
Squeezed for TIme From top: Panic Pete Squeeze Toy ($6.29); Patek Philippe ($91,400); Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller ($46,150); Tag Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 ($4,950); Calibre de Cartier Chronograph ($11,300).
Photograph by Rodolfo Martinez. Model: Gianluca at Q Management. Ink by Marco di Sotto of Marco Pulesh Tattoo, in Milan.
A carry-on for work and play
Modern British heritage brand Globe-Trotter has created a carry-on that, in its design, takes special care to account for the annoyances of airport security lines: the Orient Urushi Trolley ($1,435). Not only does it provide easy and nicely demarcated storage for the valuable goods you refuse to check, it is simple to open and close. (Handcuffs by Kiki de Montparnasse, $575.)
Eli HALILI OF NOLITA
Coining a trend
Born and raised in Israel, Eli Halili gets his inspiration from traveling the world. He designs and makes his distinctive jewelry out of his own shop in New York’s Nolita neighborhood.
M: Let’s talk about a man’s jewelry.
Eli Halili: I like things that are simple. Timeless pieces are important because jewelry is an investment. You want to wear it and pass it along to loved ones and family. When I create, it comes from a very spiritual place. Very personal.
M: Your collection is heavy on artifacts, inscriptions, and rare coins. What sparked this?
E.H.: I’m traveling the world nonstop and have been to fifty-one countries. My favorites are in Asia. Africa is a big love of mine. Ethiopia and the Middle East is where my inspiration comes from. The writing is interesting to me because I do a lot of engraving. Ancient languages—like Aramaic and Samaritan and all forms of Hebrew and Islamic—are beautiful in jewelry.
M: What is your design process?
E.H.: Most designers sketch in a book, but I like to just sit by the beach and create for hours. I never sketch things, so I just bring materials and work with the actual wax and gold.
M: How do European male consumers differ from your American clients?
E.H.: Well, they allow themselves to be more metrosexual, and they wear more jewelry. Europeans have a different sense of style and mentality and culture. It’s funny: Here in America, no one wears pink earrings, because everyone thinks it’s a lousy thing. I think it’s a beautiful thing! —Frederick Marfil
THE ROTTERDAM LOOK
No appointments. Just go.
Our favorite barbershop in all of Europe is probably the thirteen-chair salon in Rotterdam called Schorem Haarsnijder en Barbier. The attitude of the place comes through loud and clear in its Twitter bio: “Schorem Haarsnij- der en Barbier is an old-school men-only barbershop in the heart of the working-man’s city Rotterdam. No bullshit, traditional haircuts and shaves.”
The barbershop’s name translates from the Dutch thusly: Scumbag Haircutter and Barber. But there’s a catch. While schorem means “scumbag” in Dutch street slang, it can also be translated as “I shaved him.”
It was launched in 2011 by two barbers, Bertus and Leen, who are longtime friends. They had been cutting hair for more than two decades when they decided to make their idea of an old-school barbershop a reality. “It’s the smell of aftershaves, shaving soaps, that makes you think of when you were a kid and your dad would take you to the barber,” Bertus says. Adding to the masculine vibe is its policy of not taking appointments. “We really wanted to create a shop we’d want to go to ourselves,” Bertus adds. “Strip all the bullshit. Just cuts and shaves, but cuts and shaves of the highest quality possible, in an old-school, antique environment.”
Has the shop’s rude name caused them any problems?
“When I told my mother the name, she was in tears because she didn’t want people to call her son schorem,” Bertus says. “I think it’s actually a bit worse than ‘scumbag’ in Dutch. It’s a perfect name, though. The barbers working here are guys from the street, not from beauty school. We taught them barbering ourselves. It’s a bunch of no-good punks, skateboarders, musicians, school dropouts, freaks, and vagabonds.”
MUST SUMMER WINES
ONE OF EACH
A few (educated) excuses to drink more
A wine’s alleged resemblance to “lanolin and wilted orange blossom” (to use a phrase typical of so much wine writing) is not a meaningful reason to try it. Herewith, a straightforward guide to four wines that won’t disappoint you this summer. —Kailyn Kent
There’s a vino revolution going on in Spain. Young people are moving to the countryside, rehabilitating old vineyards, and transforming faded wineries. When brothers Joan and Josep d’Anguera inherited the family label, they also inherited ancestral vines and old-school techniques—including stomping barefoot on the grapes, which is hardly done anymore. Their Joan d’Anguera Finca L’Argata, Montsant, is known for its invigorating mineral kick, which will wake up the party after a big meal. (2010 vintage)
Although it has a flavor straight out of Nice, the Wölffer Estate Rosé hails from the South Fork of Long Island. This one is just right for the beach, the boat, and the balcony—or all three on a good day. (2013 vintage)
Go with the Egly-Ouriet Brut Tradition Grand Cru. Vigneron Francis Egly does not strip the wine of its character through filtration and fining processes. (NV)
Calera Viognier, from Mount Harlan on California’s central coast, makes for a nice introduction to this “cult varietal.” Use a big glass that allows it to stretch out. (2012 vintage)
A highly subjective study of scent
Carlos Huber, a perfumer with a background in architectural design, is the founder of the recently launched niche fragrance brand Arquiste.
“I love florals for guys,” says Huber, who was born in Mexico City and now lives in New York. “I’m not talking lily of the valley, but notes like gardenia, tuberose, rose, and Osmanthus, which are all super robust and can be very striking. I love gardenia for men, because it has a very jungly, green aspect. It’s like the vines that Tarzan swung from.”
He adds that floral scents for men were once common.
“Flowers never had a connection to femininity until Victorian times, when a lot of things were switched. At that time, red and pink were considered masculine and blue was feminine, because it was about purity and blue skies and virginity. Red was the color of blood and war. The idea that men should smell like wood and citrus is a more recent marketing strategy.”
We asked Huber to give us his impressions of how various types of men smell. —Belisa Silva
Investment Banker: “This is usually the guy who will go for something more woody and heavy.”
Hipster: “He is wearing something for his beard, perhaps an oil resin from Portland, and his armpits are already incredibly fragrant.”
Silicon Valley Entrepreneur: “He’d like something that is very abstract, less natural-feeling, like Escentric Molecules. It would be something synthetic, that doesn’t smell like anything you’d pick from a garden.”
Hamptons Guy: “Definitely something very safe—citrusy, aquatic, and ozonic, maybe with a little vetiver or cedarwood in the back.”
Barack Obama: “Bergamot, cedarwood, and vetiver—a very confident, woody fragrance. It’s clean, classic, and smells like a man should smell. There’s nothing dandy about it.”
Cary Grant: “Definitely a fougère, something very spicy and woody, very classic. It would have an opening of lavender or bergamot.”
Pope Francis: “The current pope doesn’t smell like anything, because it’s all about poverty for him. I’m OK with him being that austere.”