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Rick Owens, the Paris-based designer known for his dark, Goth aesthetic, will unveil two temporary shops this summer for his DRKSHDW (pronounced Dark Shadow) collection.
This story first appeared in the July 10, 2013 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
The DRKSHDW Ephemere stores will open at 70-72 Wooster Street in Manhattan from July 16 to Oct. 26, and in London at 30A Redchurch Street from Sept. 4 to Oct. 13. These will represent the line’s first two freestanding stores.
“It sounds more glamorous than saying a pop-up store,” said Owens about calling them Ephemere stores. Owens said he loves his namesake store on Hudson Street in Manhattan, “but it’s a destination. I felt I didn’t want to be evasive or very exclusive. I thought we should bring our dog-and-pony show into where everybody is and be part of the city. I thought it would be a nice message,” said Owens about the Wooster Street location.
The New York shop will measure 2,500 square feet, while the London boutique will be 215 square feet.
DRKSHDW, which is Owens’ secondary line, is a women’s and men’s collection of Owens’ shapes reinterpreted in denim and knits. The line is roughly 40 percent less expensive than the main collection. “It’s a lot more accessible, and it’s taken on a personality and has a life of its own,” said Owens, who was reached Tuesday by telephone in Paris.
“I’m very much associated with black, and DRKSHDW is even blacker,” he said. “I always think of the Ramones and ‘What would Joey wear? All of our generation has a little bit of the Ramones in them,” said Owens. “There’s something cheery, big and loud about the Ramones. It’s very American, so simplistic and quite the opposite of Europe, which is more layered and more dense.”
The last time Owens was in New York City was five years ago. “There are too many other places to go. But I do love New York. I was amazed at how angular and how muscular it looks. It just makes Europe look curly,” said Owens, who moved from Los Angeles to Paris in 2003. He said his partners found the new locations, “and I trust them implicitly; they’re geniuses in taking space.”
Owens called the London shop “teeny. It’s more about putting on a sandwich board and saying what we’re about,” and directing people to visit the shop across town.
As for whether he’d consider opening permanent stores for DRKSHDW, Owens said, “We’ll see how it goes.” He’s also still looking for additional locations for Rick Owens stores, and revealed that the next Rick Owens unit will open in Miami.
DRKSHDW, which launched in fall 2005, is manufactured primarily in Italy. Retail prices range from $300 for a cotton T-shirt, $500 for a pair of jeans and $650 for low-cut sneakers to $1,300 for a denim jacket with leather sleeves and $1,900 for a hooded bomber.
DRKSHDW is presently sold in Owens’ freestanding stores in Paris, London, New York, Tokyo, Seoul and Hong Kong, as well as shops-in-shop at stores such as Bergdorf Goodman and Barneys New York, and retailers such as Maxfield, Alan Bilzerian and Alchemist.