More Is More for Chloé

Ralph Toledano is credited with having masterminded the house’s now full-fledged product range.

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Ralph Toledano, former chairman and chief executive officer of Chloé International, is credited with having masterminded the house’s now full-fledged product range.

This story first appeared in the September 28, 2012 issue of WWD.  Subscribe Today.

When Toledano came on board in 1999, Chloé was a modest operation, with one Paris store and a smattering of wholesale accounts in Europe and the U.S.

During his first year at Chloé, Toledano introduced an eyewear line, licensed to L’Amy. The brand changed partners this January, however, signing a licensing agreement with New York-based Marchon Eyewear Inc. to manufacture and distribute its sun and ophthalmic collections. The first deliveries started rolling out month.

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A swimwear line was added in 2001, licensed to Albisetti SpA. Then in 2002, the company brought production of handbags and small leather goods in-house and launched footwear licensed to Iris.

The Bracelet bag, released in 2002 under then-creative director Phoebe Philo, was among early successes, but the big bang came with the launch in 2005 of the Paddington, also under Philo. Carrying as its signature an oversize padlock, the bag became one of the biggest “It” bags of the time, shifting several hundred thousand pieces annually and laying the foundation for an extensive leather goods line at Chloé.

Among the house’s other best-selling bags are the Marcie, the Paraty, Angie and Alice.

Re-editions of Chloé’s Paddington and Silverado bags and the Eventail clutch will feature among 16 emblematic archive designs to be celebrated in the house’s 60th anniversary Re-edition collection for spring 2013, along with a re-issue of wooden wedge sandals launched in 2006 under Philo.

The launch of the house’s See by Chloé franchise, meanwhile, which is produced under license by Italy’s SINV SpA, dates back to 2001, under then-design director Stella McCartney. In March 2011, Laure de Sade was appointed design director of the collection.

A See by Chloé bag line made its debut in 2008.

The first See by Chloé store opened in Japan in February 2003, growing to 27 stores internationally today. Two openings are planned for 2013, with their locations yet to be disclosed. The house declined to provide sales figures for the line.

In 2007, Chloé signed a license with Children Worldwide Fashion for the Chloé Children’s Wear line, with the first collection launched for fall 2007. Emilie Gaulupeau, head of brands at CFW, overseeing Chloé Children’s Wear and other labels, said, “This added to our portfolio a brand that resonates luxury and couture.”

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