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Five emerging talents showing in the City of Light.
This story first appeared in the September 20, 2013 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
IRIS VAN HERPEN
Known for experimental couture creations like 3-D printed dresses, Iris Van Herpen wants to bring a similarly cutting-edge feel to her debut ready-to-wear presentation in Paris on Oct. 1.
The Dutch designer, whose fans include Björk and Lady Gaga, said the spring collection was inspired by sound, and the way it can connect to clothes.
“The way we will present the collection, music and the clothes will merge into one. The clothes will change the music and the other way around,” said Van Herpen, who launched her rtw label last season. She’s not sacrificing her penchant for Gothic drama, either. Materials will include metallic and matte leather embossed with silicon; high-gloss fabric woven from silk and nylon threads, and laser-cut patent leather — mostly in black, dark blue and silver.
“For me, it’s important to have not only the visual aspect of the clothes, but also the tactile experience,” she explained. “It’s about the movement and the way the material reacts with light.”
— Joelle Diderich
Christine Phung, a French designer with Asian roots, is rapidly gaining a following for her signature brand, launched in 2011. In July, she won ANDAM’s First Collection Prize, securing financial support and a spot on the official Parisian show calendar for her first runway show, to be held Sept. 25 at “La Suite” space operated by Galeries Lafayette.
Named “Liquid Dilusion,” her spring collection features three bespoke prints, one commissioned from artist William James Thurman, inspired by the idea of optical swirling motifs that resemble light refracted on skin underwater. These add a fluid touch to Phung’s intricately hand-pleated dresses, in a restrained palette of silver, gray, cream and electric blue, contrasting with more sporty separates like bomber jackets with matching shorts.
— Laurent Folcher
Léa Peckre, whose workshop in the French capital’s 11th arrondissement adjoins that of Christine Phung, is another young designer working on a wardrobe that oscillates between sporty silhouettes and more intricate experimental pieces.
Specialized in using technical fabric to achieve volume and transparency, Peckre employs various bonding techniques to create curvy motifs and shapes, while 3-D fabrics give tunic dresses and tops a sporty twist.
Her collection, on show at Galerie 74 on Sept. 25 from 5 to 8 p.m., will include a new denim line in dark blue or gray, featuring her signature constructed volumes — A-line mini dresses worn over carrot pants, and wide-shouldered cropped jackets.
Now in her third season, Peckre is preparing for the next step: Juggling bespoke orders for more intricate pieces with increasingly commercial lines.
After a stint as a p.r. agent at Karla Otto and three years in marketing at Céline, Aude Casteja is launching her brand Monographie for spring. With a sound commercial instinct, the designer said she was convinced there was room for “something sober and graphic, some sort of timeless contemporary wardrobe at a high-quality level.”
The result is a clean, minimal and short silhouette of silk crepe and double satin dresses and separates, with subtle details like contrasting piping and hidden closures. The mix-and-match line is priced at retail from 250 euros, or $330 at current exchange, for a top to 680 euros ($900) for a jumpsuit. The line will be on display at the Designers Apartment showroom from Sept. 27 to Oct. 3.
Copenhagen-based Ole Yde is bringing his luxury women’s ready-to-wear label Yde, a favorite of Danish royals and socialites, to Paris for the first time since it was founded in 2005.
“I’ve had a lifelong love affair with Paris, and it’s been my dream to show my collection here,” he confessed.
On Sept. 25, mini runway shows at Galerie Nikki Diana Marquardt on Place des Vosges will showcase his delicate, couturelike creations with a whimsical edge. The spring collection, featuring pristine white silk tulle, satin or chiffon dresses, is inspired by the Danish seaside resort of Skagen, a favorite with artists in the late 19th century.
As a fresh and easy take on formal dressing, Yde’s work has an ingénue quality. Said the designer, “There’s an element of fairy tale in my designs.”