NEW YORK — The city is about to become sourcing central.
This story first appeared in the July 8, 2014 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
It’s a vital time for fabric and material buyers, and executives who direct the manufacturing decisions and strategies for fashion firms large and small, as several major trade shows come to town to create a forum for the latest textile trends for fall 2015, provide mills and spinners opportunities to network and plan production, and offer forums on the latest nuances and details of the complicated state of global sourcing.
Spinexpo kicks things off next week with a three-day run at the Altman Building & Metropolitan Pavilion on West 18th Street starting July 15. It’s the sixth annual New York edition of the international fair, which showcases exhibitors of yarns, fibers, knitted fabrics and knitwear with a global representation.
The show will house 82 exhibitors from 15 countries, focusing on yarns with precious fibers such as cashmere and mohair, as well as merino wool, silk, viscose, metallic and synthetics for flatbed and circular knitting, hosiery and weaving. Many of the exhibiting companies specialize in organic and ethical certifications. The fair will also include a growing number of knitwear manufacturers, with 25 at this edition, partnering with many of the exhibiting spinners to offer a complete line.
There will also be a special Cashmere Boutique focused on a new generation of cashmere, highlighting a fiber that can be technical, light and fashionable even in spring and summer, organizers explained.
Spinexpo’s Trend Area, organized by a team headed by knitwear designer Sophie Steller, will feature exhibitors’ products in a lively presentation of garments and accessories. Following an industry trend, many of the exhibiting spinners are now completely vertical or linked to knitters and offer a better integrated knowledge of yarns and their end-use, according to organizers. This new approach is possible through new machinery and advanced technology, and international teams and sales networks focused on product development.
Première Vision New York has a new home this season on July 22 and 23 for its fall 2015 edition, departing the Metropolitan Pavilion for larger and more open space by the Hudson River.
Guglielmo Olearo, international director of Première Vision, said the new venue is a major moment for the New York show.
“We are moving after many years to Pier 92, where we will have better space, larger space, more services, more product and more exhibitors,” Olearo said.
At Pier 92, PV New York will house its main offering of high-end fashion fabrics, mostly from Europe, along with its Indigo New York fabric design fair. There will be 300 exhibitors overall, with 156 at PV and 147 at Indigo. This represents a 28 percent increase for PV and an 12 percent gain for Indigo. In addition, there will be 24 trimming exhibitors including makers of buttons, buckles, metallic and plastic trims, embroidery and lace, labels, zippers and components for jewelry compared to 15 last July. Olearo said there was a strong demand for more space and a wider rage in this area, including components, trimmings, labels, buttons and jeweled accessories. He said there are more fabric offerings in segments such as men’s wear and activewear.
“To be able to have everything at the same place and on the same floor makes for a richer offer and increases the power of the PV brands in the United States,” Olearo said. “It was time for us to move and it was time for us to expand our offering. It was an important step in the U.S. to change the layout of the show because for the first time every universe — the fabrics, the trimmings and the designers — will have their own forum and it will show we are a unique show with everything on the same floor.”
Organizers have also added a trend seminar based on the important colors of the season to augment the well-attended style seminar hosted by Sabine Le Chatelier, deputy fashion director of PV. There will also be a panel on sustainability at 5 p.m. on opening day, a first for the New York edition after sessions were held in PV’s Paris and Shanghai shows last year. Like those seminars, Olearo expects this one to be well attended given the importance of “eco-responsibility in the textile world,” he said.
The show’s expansion is also buoyed by the importance of the U.S. market.
“The exhibitors are attracted to the U.S. market because they see the opportunity for growth in the next six months,” Olearo said. “There is a return of major interest in the U.S. market. All those exhibitors who have tried to develop business in the Far East, in China, have little by little brought business back to the U.S. because they see the old lion is still alive, even more powerful than before the economic crisis. Companies are reducing their investment in China, which is one reason PV New York has had success.”
As for the logistics of moving to the Piers on the Hudson River from the Metropolitan Pavilion in Midtown, Olearo said, “We’re going to assist our visitors with all the services they need. We’ll have shuttle busses and taxi service. We’re also going to have a huge party to celebrate the new venue and the new model of PV New York.”
Also being staged on July 22 and 23 is Kingpins New York, moving to new digs at Skylight Clarkson Sq in SoHo.
Texworld USA and the co-located International Apparel Sourcing Show and Home Sourcing Show take up shop July 22 at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center for three days with an array of textile, manufacturing and sourcing exhibitors.
Bobby Cole, marketing manager at Messe Frankfurt USA, which produces Texworld USA, Apparel Sourcing Show and Home Sourcing Show staged together at the Javits Center, said there will be 433 exhibitors at Texworld and 185 at Apparel Sourcing.
Texworld will feature dedicated pavilions from Lenzing Fibers and the countries of Turkey, Taiwan and Colombia, while Apparel Sourcing will have a new pavilion from Guatemala, and returning pavilions from Colombia and Mauritius.
With a free-trade agreement in place between the U.S. and Colombia since 2012, more than 209 Colombian textile companies have sold their products to the U.S. market for the first time, representing one of the largest growth sectors, according to Proexport Colombia.
Proexport said in addition to a long history of garment and textile production in the country and its ability to provide flexible quantities, Colombia’s geographic location on the northwestern corner of South America, bordered by the Caribbean Sea to the north side and the Pacific Ocean to the west, allowing potential suppliers to provide competitive lead times.
Cole noted a wider diversity of exhibitors overall, with companies from Lithuania, Bulgaria, New Zealand, Austria and Germany, in a addition to 10 mills from the U.S.
“One of the things we’ve noticed at our shows is that we have all walks of life as far as attendees,” Cole said. “We have everything from the emerging fashion designer to the large department store buyers.”
Cole noted that one of the participants is Makers Row, a New York-based company that focuses on assisting buyers and designers with connections to domestic resources.
“A lot of our buyers are interested in looking at domestic resources or resources close to home, but they also want to have the opportunity to look at what’s available globally,” Cole said. “Our buyers have also mentioned that they are interested in eco-friendly suppliers that care about the environment, ones that concerned about human rights issues and labor relations, so we try to cover a broad range of topics in our seminar series and offer a broad range of exhibitors to our buyers.”
The Lenzing Pavilion has 25 mills from the U.S. Europe and Asia showing knit and woven fabrics that use the company’s Tencel or Modal cellulosic fibers.
Tricia Carey, USA merchandising manager for Lenzing, said the company will be highlighting the benefits of Tencel in shirting, as well as new applications in denim and knits. In addition, there will be a Central America Sourcing lounge due to the demand in near sourcing from this region.
“The garment industry is based on the combination of ideas and business, with a complex supply chain in between,” Carey said. “Texworld USA is a time for these design ideas to meet with the suppliers for creative innovations. Retail sales for 2014 have been tough, which puts more pressure on the supply for new ideas.”
The Texworld seminar series organized by Lenzing will be the largest of all 17 Texworld USA shows so far. The 19 seminars are complimentary, with topics ranging from fiber, sourcing, sustainability, emerging business development, color forecasting and design trends.
On opening day, July 22, the series kicks at 11 a.m. with “The What, Where and How of Garment Production.” On the panel are Anne Gillespie, director of integrity at Textile Exchange; Sam Moore, managing director of Hohenstein Institute America; Sandra Marquadt, Global Organic Textile Standard representative in North America, and Avedis Seferian, president and chief executive officer of Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production. They will discuss how to insure a product is made responsibly and in compliance with industry regulations.
At 2 p.m., a seminar on “Made in the Americas” will feature Julie Reiser, president and ceo of Made in USA Certified; Sylvia Reyes, apparel and textiles Director — USA for Proexport Colombia; Lucia de Sander, marketing and promotion coordinator at the Guatemala Apparel & Textile Association, and Matthew Burnett, cofounder of Maker’s Row. The focus here will be how working in the Western Hemisphere and especially the U.S. can remove constraints found in longer supply chains.
On July 23 at 11 a.m., experts including Rick Helfenbein, president of Luen Thai USA; Jeff Kreindel, director of sales and marketing at Pearl Global USA, and J.C. Mazingue, apparel trade adviser for Origin Africa, will lead a discussion on “Sourcing Outside China.”
At 2 p.m., a panel on “Preferred Fibers, Making the Right Fiber Choices,” will include Lenzing’s Carey, along with Pete Szanto, business development manager at Dupont Sorona, and Robert P. Antoshak, managing director of Olah Inc. The focus here is on fibers that are preferred for their proven environmental credentials.
At 4 p.m., Robert Frisby, an attorney at the Federal Trade Commission, will discuss the latest FTC rules on textile labeling and advertising.
“The seminar series at Texworld USA provides a platform not only to learn about new products and developments, but also to exchange ideas and opinions,” Carey said. “There are several panel discussions which allow for the interaction and expression of opinions.”
AT A GLANCE
• Spinexpo, July 15 to 17, Metropolitan Pavilion & Altman Building, 123 West 18th Street.
• Première Vision New York, July 22 and 23, Pier 92, West 55th Street and the West Side Highway.
• Kingpins, July 22 and 23, Skylight Clarkson Sq, 550 Washington Street.
• Texworld USA and the International Apparel Sourcing Show, July 22 to 24, Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, 655 West 34th Street.