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Paris Trade Shows: Ones to Watch

Whether they design shoes, jewelry, accessories or apparel, here are some designers to keep an eye on at trade shows around Paris.

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Appeared In
Special Issue
WWD Paris Preview issue 12/14/2010

FEIDT
Showing at: Eclat de Mode-Bijorhca (Cream section)
The story: Founded in 2007 by two sisters, Feidt is devoted to small-scale gold jewelry, designed to wear all the time and not locked in a box. Muriel and Nathalie Feidt like to work symbolic motifs such as yin and yang, life tree or butterflies mixed with a subtle dose of religion for a contemporary urban woman.

Rose, white and yellow gold are mixed with diamonds and semiprecious stones. The latest collection references angel wings along with rock ’n’ roll notes. Prices range from 180 to 450 euros (about $240 to $600) at retailers including Galeries Lafayette in Paris and 10 Corso Como in Milan.
 
NADIA DAFRI
Showing at:
Eclat de Mode-Bijorhca
The story: Nadia Dafri launched her line of textile jewelry in 2009, with a social twist: People enrolled in rehabilitation programs in suburban Paris manufacture the line, sometimes using old fabric stocks to make each piece look different.

 

Large styles like breastplates are made to order, but her idea is to create sculptural pieces that are somewhere between jewelry and accessories.

 

For next season, she unites African cotton and Indonesian folkloric prints, embellishing them with passementerie and tassels embroidered with glass beads, quartz, amethyst or tourmaline. She also offers more precious metallic pieces that can be clipped onto her fabric ropes. Prices range from 50 to 380 euros ($65 to $500) at retail.
 
ROSEANNA
Showing at:
Who’s Next
The story: Created in 2007 by childhood friends Anne-Fleur Broudehoux and Roxane Thiery, the Roseanna label (dubbed so after their respective nicknames) started with swimsuits and beachwear and has quickly extended to a full clothing line.

Channeling a sophisticated, laid-back style, they focus their research on fabrics, each one inspiring a group of pieces from jumpsuits and bikini tops to dresses and shorts. Their latest collection was inspired by a trip to South Dakota and the region’s vast natural landscapes, as well as a Coco Sumner concert. There are nomadic looks with masculine accents and flowing, patchwork dresses in distressed cotton or silk worn under comfy cardigans. Prices range from 15 euros ($20) for a lingerie set to 400 euros ($530) for a coat. The collection is sold at Assembly in New York; Bird in Brooklyn; Merci, Printemps and Le Bon Marché in Paris; Milk in Los Angeles and VOD in Dallas, among others.
 
ELISE ANDEREGG
Showing at: Salon International de la Lingerie
The story: Launched in 2004, Elise Anderegg’s first collection was mainly dedicated to “nuisettes,” or short nighties, and expanded into corsetry in 2008. Her experience at lace manufacturer Solstiss brought her valuable knowledge of luxurious fabrics. Her line uses silk exclusively in satin, chiffon or georgette with Calais and Solstiss lace.

News for next season includes a line called My Little Black Nuisette that can be worn as night or evening gowns; a fragrance made in Grasse, France, and a line of mules and slippers. Prices start at 150 euros ($200) at Galeries Lafayette in Paris and Victoria Secret’s New York flagship

 

AMELIE PICHARD
Showing at: Premiere Classe

The story: Winning a recent young designer competition for French mass market shoe label Bata prompted 27-year-old Parisian Amélie Pichard to launch her own footwear collection. Handmade in Europe, Pichard’s designs are characterized by their vintage feel.

 

Inspired by the cult American TV series “Twin Peaks,” this season’s wood-based collection, which includes platforms, heels and boots, contrasts smooth and rugged materials like sheepskin and alligator, or cork-inspired finishes with patent leather. Retail prices for the line start at 280 euros, or $370.

YARNZ
Showing at: Premiere Classe
The story: New York’s Yarnz is spinning fresh perspectives on the silk scarf category. An artful tangle of white and gray ropes enlivens one taupe design, while other hits include a print of overlapping white antlers against an orange ground and a digital print of real leopard fur.

“We wanted to take the idea of…the most popular trends and make them a little more literal,” said designer Larry Wolfe. Evoking a Seventies feel, the line works earthy neutrals with graffiti-inspired brights.

For fall 2011, Yarnz will collaborate with W Hotels on a capsule Global Glam collection inspired by two cities: Austin, Tex., and Taipei. The pieces will feature in a New York Fashion Week display this February at the city’s Lincoln Center, along with pieces by other designers.

Linen or cashmere scarves retail for about 170 euros, or $225. The brand plans to introduce printed bags for the spring 2012 season.  

ANTON HEUNIS
Showing at:
Premiere Classe
The story: Known for his “new vintage” aesthetic, jewelry designer Anton Heunis’ latest collection, due to show at Premiere Classe, splits into two camps: a mixed metal “mobile” story with modern pendants and charms, and a more opulent theme inspired by Seventies-era Bulgari creations. The 34-year-old South African designer is based in Madrid. Using a gold-plated base for the Seventies-inspired pieces, Heunis combined Swarovski crystals with semiprecious and vintage stones in traditional gem colors such as soft ruby with opalescent greens and violets. Distributed in around 150 doors, with the U.S. and Japan among key markets, Heunis on Dec. 15 will launch a Web site and blog, with links to online retailers like Mywardrobe.com and Fragments.com.
 
ASH
Showing at: Premiere Classe
The story:
This Italian brand, created in 2002, is known for producing quality shoes at accessible prices with an authentic, cool style that might be called “original vintage.”

For next fall and winter, the collection is inspired by mountain sports, reimagined for city streets. There’s also a keen focus on exotic fur for warmth and fun in distressed treatments, as well as masculine-feminine vintage biker or riding boots. Prices range from 150 to 350 euros ($200 to $400) at retail, and the brand is carried at Le Bon Marché and Printemps Haussmann Paris.
 
SONJA BISCHUR
Showing at: Premiere Classe
The story: Vienna-based jewelry designer Sonja Bischur founded her brand in 2005 and is known for audacious pieces, mixing materials and shapes that blur the line between jewelry and fashion. Her iconic and elaborate sculptural style uses fabric and ribbons snaking or draping between and around strings of pearls or beads.

For next season, there are long necklaces with dramatic textile effects in black and midnight hues along with toned-down winter whites exuding a dark elegance.

Prices range from 120 to 500 euros ($160 to $660) at retail at such stores as Colette in Paris, The Number 4 in Kuwait and Plain People in Japan.
 
PERLE DE LUNE
Showing at: Eclat de Mode-Bijorhca (Cream Section)
The story: Sandrine Domercq, a graduate of Gem-A in London and a passionate gemologist, created her brand in 2004. Her dream was to create precious yet affordable jewelry. Her feminine and luminous semiprecious small pieces mainly focus on small raw or briolette-cut diamonds in a range of natural and opaque colors, from smoky to icy gray. Two new groups for fall are: frosted, with miniature textured yellow and gray gold beads and rare shades of stones inspired by Gustav Klimt paintings, and Maharani, an homage to the city of Jaipur, India, with finely engraved and perforated medals dangling on chain bracelets and necklaces. Retail prices range from 200 to 4,000 euros ($265 to $5,290) at Galeries Lafayette and Franck & Fils in Paris and Fenwick in London.
 
MATHIEU TORMEN
Showing at: Eclat de Mode-Bijorhca
The story: Newcomer Mathieu Tormen was born in Nancy, which was the cradle of French Art Nouveau, heavily inspired by lush nature. Influenced by this background and his contemplation of the natural environment, the designer has taken the hummingbird as a leitmotif for his collection. Those tiny birds are cast in manganese silver, enameled and then set with brilliant-cut diamonds in an atelier in eastern France. Designs range from miniature pendants, rings, earrings and hairpins and retail from 150 to 400 euros, or $200 to $529.

AVHASH by Anne Valérie Hash
Showing at: Who’s Next
The story: Among first-time exhibitors headed to the show, Anne Valérie Hash will present her AVHASH by Anne Valérie Hash secondary line, which since its launch last season is distributed in 150 doors. “We’ve decided to join the show, as it opens us up to a new distribution network,” said the designer. Highlights from the fall 2011 collection includes twisted T-shirts, draped pants in light wools and printed shirts. Prices go from around 50 euros, or $66 at current exchange, for a T-shirt, to around 450 euros, or $495, for a wool coat.

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