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This story first appeared in the July 27, 2010 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
Swedish Hasbeens: Swedish Hasbeens specializes in retro feminine wood-sole shoes hand-crafted in traditional factories in the south of Sweden, using ecologically prepared natural grain leather. For spring, the collection takes inspiration from the Fifties and Sixties, produced in popular Eighties hues, like white and neon pink.
Marie-Laure Chamore: French jewelry designer Marie-Laure Chamorel, 35, tripled sales when she introduced her signature line at Premiere Classe’ Tuileries session last season. Her pieces are handmade in France an Italy, with chain work outsourced to artisans in Indonesia. Dégradé silk pieces are key for spring, mixed with tulle, chains and vintage stones in muted colors.
PRET A PORTER PARIS
Torulabags: Budding Anglo-French designer Emeline Coates will unveil her debut bag collection, Torulabags, at Prêt à Porter. For spring, Coates will show four clutch styles, including the Hyde Park model, in black, coral and nude, made from soft leather and lined with suede. It retails for 75 euros, or $96 at current exchange.
Lala Berlin: German designer Leyla Piedayesh’s knitwear label is already a highlight of Berlin Fashion Week. Making its Who’s Next debut, the six- year-old brand, which is known for its luxurious textures, is charting new territory for spring: bold graphic outfits in silk and jersey.
Delicious Freaks: The French label, which, as its name would suggest, doesn’t take itself too seriously, is once again poking fun for spring. Silk and cotton scarves bearing psychedelic prints and 3-D effects are divided into three themes: “The scandalous,” “The most wanted” and “Vanities.”
Mumur: Who’s Next and Premiere Classe organizers are giving free rein to select designers to create one-of-a-kind pieces for their seasonal fashion show, as highlighted here with a futuristic look from Mumur designed by Andreea Badala and inspired by vintage lingerie with bold graphic prints.
ON THE ECO FRONT
A coterie of sustainable fashion brands will show at Paris’ upcoming round of trade shows. At Who’s Next, for instance, Paris-based organic denim brand Nu will add men’s organic cotton T-shirts and underwear to its lineup.
Meanwhile, LEaF (aka Love the Earth Fashion), which was founded in 2008, will introduce new fair-trade fabric as well as an organic knitwear line. The brand is sold in stores including Isetan, Le Bon Marché and Barneys New York.
At Premiere Classe, Melissa, the iconic Brazilian plastic shoe company, will introduce its Melissa Amazonista line, which was inspired by the flora and fauna of the Amazon. It will also showcase its latest collaborations with Italian architect Gaetano Pesce and its most recent project with Jean Paul Gaultier.
Plasticana, which has been making shoes and bags from recycled plastic since 2002, will launch two shoe styles for spring dubbed the Rumbana and Marina.
Dalaleo’s bag-centric accessories line, which is manufactured by Brazilian women using recycled aluminum cans, will unveil a jewelry collection.
Lastly, Sandra Canselier’s eco- friendly Coclico shoe will present new styles, including a platform wedge called “Wrell,” at this year’s Premiere Classe. — Tyler McCall
RECASTING SHOWS IN DUBAI
The Who’s Next and Premiere Classe trade shows in Dubai are refining their concepts for their second edition in October with new dates, a new venue and new agents.
The events have been renamed Middle East Fashion Days to distinguish them from their Parisian counterparts, and pushed back 10 days to Oct. 19 to 21 to give the region’s most important buyers time to complete placing their orders at Paris Fashion Week before attending.
“It now positions itself as the last event of the spring 2011 season,” said the event’s organizers, WSN Developpement.
The shows have also moved to the Madinat Jumeirah Resort, styled to resemble an ancient Arabian citadel, from the Dubai International Convention and Exhibition Centre. The venue is expected to play host to 200 exhibitors, including New Delhi-based ready-to-wear brand Morphe by Amit Aggarwal and French label Marbella Paris, which is working on a line of abaya jewels with couture designer Eymeric François due to launch in 2011.
An entire room will be turned over to catwalk shows taking place three times daily, from French designer Jérôme L’Huillier to Indian brand Langoors, whose creations are made using natural dyes, real indigo and hand-block prints, and local brand House of Glamo, known for its slogan T-shirts.
In addition, the event will be open to the public — free of charge — on the last day to give local customers an opportunity to peruse brands and provide feedback on their collections.
In a bid to attract more local buyers, WSN has boosted its network of agents with experts from the Middle East, who are targeting potential attendees in the Gulf region and bordering countries to bump up attendance from 2,000 visitors last year. — J.D.
Sept. 3-6: Bijorhca Eclat de Mode, Porte de Versailles
Sept. 3-7: Maison & Objet, Paris Nord Villepinte
Sept. 4-6: Mode City, Porte de Versailles
Sept. 4-7: Who’s Next, Hall 1, Porte de Versailles
Sept. 4-7: Prêt à Porter, Hall 7, Porte de Versailles
Sept. 4-7: Atmosphère, Hall 7, Porte de Versailles
Sept. 4-7: The Box, Porte de Versailles
Sept. 4-7: So Ethic, Porte de Versailles
Sept. 4-7: Shibuya, Porte de Versailles
Sept. 4-7: Creative By, Porte de Versailles
Sept. 4-7: Go Magic, Porte de Versailles
Sept. 4-7: Go Easy, Porte de Versailles
Sept. 4-7: Premiere Classe, Hall 1, Porte de Versailles
Sept. 5-6: Print Or, Palais Brongniart
Oct. 1-4: Premiere Classe, Jardin des Tuileries
Oct. 19-21: Who’s Next & Premiere Classe, Dubaï, Dubaï Madinat Jumeirah