On the Surface

Fabrics can be the key to differentiating luxury from the rest of the pack.

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Appeared In
Special Issue
WWD Collections issue 04/14/2014

In a world where fashion is available at all price tiers, innovative fabrics can differentiate a luxury collection from the masses.

For fall, several designers amped up their surface play with new materials, particularly striking metallics and complex jacquards.


Marco De Vincenzo

Marco De Vincenzo, a hot name to watch in Milan, used a chic dégradé gray flannel with laser cutouts that was embellished with thermo-welded multicolor studs.

“I wanted to revisit the classical tartan pattern by giving it an amusing touch,” he said. “The combination of an open-worked wool and a softened Lurex fabric builds an unusual version of the Scottish kilt, more feminine and contemporary.”

—Alessandra Turra





New York-based Chris Gelinas bonded a luxe silk tulle plissé with an industrial techno netting incorporating elements of aluminum “to give it a high-shine silver finish,” he said. The netting is used for interlining car seats, but he used it for collars and cuffs. “It was stitched with a sandwich technique using horsehair tubing to mimic an exaggerated rib.”

—Marc Karimzadeh


NEXT: Issa >>



Creative director Blue Farrier, who joined the London label last year, took her cues for the textured, printed wool from the linoleum flooring in her great-aunt’s house.


“The textures within the floor were quite interesting, and I thought the way we could [represent that]…was to develop different fabrics,” Farrier said. One is black wool printed using screens for a textured pattern of teal and raspberry specks, flocked with white yarn, for a puffy dandelion effect.

— Nina Jones

NEXT: Gareth Pugh >>


Gareth Pugh

Gareth Pugh typically veers toward Goth romance, and for fall, the designer featured a fascinating mirrored film fabric that added another facet to his aesthetic.

“This fabric is more of an industrial film that is actually semitransparent, like a two-way mirror,” said Pugh, who shows in Paris.  The overall effect is raw and textured, as well as futuristic and, for Pugh, irresistible. “I saw it and I knew I had to have it in the show.”

—Laurent Folcher

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