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GONE, NOT FORGOTTEN: The French media is preparing for a week that will be all about Yves.
TV channels have juggled schedules to pay homage to Yves Saint Laurent, who died in Paris Sunday. On the day of his funeral service Thursday, Paris Première will broadcast his final runway show, while public station France 5 will rerun “L’Atelier de la Mode,” tracing his life, presented by Virginie Mouzat and featuring Pierre Bergé, which will be run again on Friday.
This story first appeared in the June 4, 2008 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
Elle magazine is creating a special edition dedicated to the designer, due out before the end of the week. And the first of an inevitable slew of YSL tribute tomes, a new biography: “Yves Saint Laurent — l’Homme Couleur de Temps” (Yves Saint Laurent — The Man, The Color of Time), will be unveiled next Wednesday at Paris’ Hotel Placide, featuring a preface by the late designer. The 200-page work was penned by Fiona Lewis, described as an intimate friend of the designer.
Saint Laurent muses Mounia and Aissatou are expected at the event.
French newspapers continued heavy coverage through Tuesday. The cover of Le Figaro’s lifestyle section featured a photo of Saint Laurent exiting his final show under the headline “Définitivement Génial” (Definitively Brilliant) together with an accolade by his biographer Laurence Benaïm, which preceded the four-page spread.
Libération’s front page pictured a young Saint Laurent backstage in 1972, and its 12-page spread included extracts of his retirement speech in 2002. France’s National Audiovisual Center (INA) has delved into its television and radio archives to offer a selection of Saint Laurent’s interviews on its Web site, such as one back in 1958, when Saint Laurent explained his controversial remark that there is no such thing as an American fashion, all fashion comes from France. Other archived media reports include the spectacular runway show before 80,000 spectators in the Stade de France during the Soccer World Cup in 1998.
Meanwhile, headlines like the Daily Mirror’s “Man who let women wear the trousers,” set the tone in the British press. Variations on that theme included an article in the Guardian’s G2 section headlined, “Forget burning bras — feminism was built on the trouser suit.”
The Independent featured a portrait of Saint Laurent on the cover of its Extra section Tuesday, with the caption “Adieu, Yves” and devoted six pages of the supplement to the designer’s career. The Daily Mail, the Daily Express and the Sun all ran double-page articles and photo spreads charting Saint Laurent’s best-known looks. And Lisa Armstrong of the Times wrote a double page article about his influence, with pictures of the Safari collection, Le Smoking and the Mondrian collection.
STRIP TEASE: Having bumped Kate Moss over to its current bridal campaign, shot by Nick Knight, “It” Brit Alice Dellal, New Yorker Paz de la Huerta and Danish top model Helena Christensen are rumored to be among a cosmopolitan crop of personalities plucked for Agent Provocateur’s mainline lingerie campaign for fall. All will be unveiled in September.
And even though Kate’s gone bridal, it appears she’s still provocative enough for the cheeky lingerie house, as a spokeswoman denied rampant Internet rumors that the model was being replaced with a younger version. The spokeswoman pointed out that Moss has a one-year contract as the face of its “White Wedding” collection. “Allegations that Kate Moss has been dropped as the face of Agent Provocateur are completely inaccurate,” she said. “We worked with Kate two years ago on our ‘Miss X’ lingerie campaign, which was shot by director Mike Figgis. The campaign was so successful — crashing our Web site with the huge influx of visitors — so obviously we could not wait to work with her again.”
OUT OF FRAME: Time’s director of photography MaryAnne Golon is leaving the magazine after a 24-year run. She will remain with the magazine as a contributing editor to represent Time in select photography juries and awards. Golon joined the magazine as an intern in 1982 and rose through the ranks; she oversaw award-winning Time photo essays including Hurricane Katrina and September 11, both of which won National Magazine Awards for single topic issues from the American Society of Magazine Editors. Golon’s deputy, Alice Gabriner, was promoted to the new position of chief picture editor and will serve as acting director of photography. A permanent successor to Golon is expected to be named. — Stephanie D. Smith