LADDIE TIME AT AOL: Six weeks ago, The New York Times reported that Mark Golin, the former editor of Maxim and Details, was working on a “magazine for grown-up males that uses lad motifs,” for AOL Time Warner. Now, sources say the most likely scenario involves bringing Loaded — the British magazine that launched the “beer-and-babes” trend in 1994 — to the states. When asked in a telephone interview whether the rumor was “true or false,” Golin paused for what seemed an eternity — and then denied it. But Loaded is owned by IPC, the magazine company purchased by Time Inc. last year, so the company does have an “in,” as they say. And though a spokesman for the company denied that a project was “in development,” he alluded to the possibility of an American Loaded, saying that Golin is “looking at male magazine concepts — some that we own, some that we don’t. He’s early on in the process and it’s a fact finding mission.”
This story first appeared in the September 17, 2002 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
Meanwhile, when it comes to the laddies’ upmarket competitor GQ, circulation woes continue to be a thorn in editor in chief Art Cooper’s side. Just three weeks after WWD reported friction between the editor and his publisher Ron Galotti, the Delaney Report decided to raise the volume. In an item called “SOS to SI,” Tom Delaney called for Cooper’s head, saying, “The Delaney Report recommends S.I. Newhouse shake up the editorial at his men’s magazine, GQ….Time to replace long-time GQ editor Art Cooper as the magazine’s circulation picture remains gloomy.” Delaney’s suggested replacement? Dylan Jones, the editor of British GQ.
While subscriptions have risen for GQ in the last few years, newsstand sales — a better barometer of a magazine’s heat with readers — have been plummetting. For the first six months of 2002, single copy sales fell 12.9 percent. In five years, the magazine has shaved off 44 percent of the magazine’s newsstand readership. Cooper, meanwhile, has attributed the drop to the lack of men buying magazines at supermarkets.
KARL’S CAPERS: Although the Tinseltown luminaries featured in Interview Magazine’s October L.A Heat issue got to choose among some fabulous designer outfits, a few of the most in-demand pieces came right off photographer Karl Lagerfeld’s back. When Lagerfeld went to Hollywood last month to shoot the celebrities in their homes, Faye Dunaway, Beck and Marilyn Manson all asked the designer-lensman if they could wear what he had on. “Everyday he was in another impeccable outfit,” said Ingrid Sischy, editor in chief of Interview.
The entire well of the October issue, which hits newsstands this week, features Lagerfeld’s portraits. For the cover shot, Lagerfeld requested that Jack Nicholson, Nicole Kidman, Benicio Del Toro, Selma Blair and Ryan Gosling all wear black.
In a feature in the issue, Donatella Versace interviews Maya Rudolph, who imitates her on “Saturday Night Live.” In it, Versace writes, “Forgive me if I bitch a little, but the diamonds you wear are nothing compared to mine. You can’t do that. I’m allergic to fake jewelry.”
“We were planning on doing one issue, but everybody said yes, and suddenly we had enough for three issues. We’re doing two.” The second installment in November is called “L.A. Cool.”
PICTURE THIS: To trumpet its archive of photographs, Art + Commerce Anthology has created a four-color 64-page newspaper (á la the old W) highlighting the work of the 33 photographers it represents for commercial and editorial licensing, syndication and resale purposes.
Work by such photographers as Dewey Nicks, Stephen Meisel, Carter Smith, Wayne Maser, Glen Luchford, Ellen Von Unwerth, Pamela Hanson, Nan Goldin, David LaChapelle, Inez Van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin are featured in Anthology’s newspaper.
According to Heloise Goodman, director of Anthology, “The agency has never done a promotional piece on this scale. With Anthology, we needed a sales tool and needed a way to promote ourselves.”
This week, Anthology will send 6,000 copies of the newspaper to ad agencies and editorial clients.
Anthology’s goal is to get ad agencies, designers, companies and magazines to license or buy these images for editorial and commercial use. For example, Helmut Lang licensed Robert Mapplethorpe images for an ad campaign, and Fiat in Sweden licensed a Taryn Simon image of Carmen Kass in a shark’s cage, and a car was inserted instead, Goodman said. “Kodak is buying an image for the Jumbotron on Times Square,” she added.
CONDE NAST MOVES: Priya Narang has been promoted from executive director to associate publisher, marketing, at Vogue, a new post.
In addition, Tamara Rosenthal has been named retail director. She succeeds Lottie Oakley, who joined GQ as international fashion director. Most recently, Rosenthal was director of business development at Salvatore Ferragamo.
On the editorial side of the magazine, the accessories department is experiencing changes. Danya Unterhalter, an accessories editor, is moving to Harper’s Bazaar and Anna Wintour’s assistant, Danielle Pariser, is being promoted to associate accessories editor. Samantha Marcus remains accessories editor. Both report to Michelle Kessler Sanders.
Meanwhile, at Glamour, Susan Goodall has joined the magazine as executive managing editor, succeeding Ellen Payne, who joined Hearst Magazines as director of editorial operations. Most recently, Goodall was an executive editor at Worth magazine, prior to which she was the editorial business manager at Vanity Fair.
In addition, Laurel Naverson joins Glamour in the new post of senior beauty editor, where she will be editing front-of-the-book beauty sections and beauty feature sections. She succeeds Rebecca Sample Gerstung, who left. Most recently, Naverson was an associate editor at Allure.
Suzanne Donaldson joins Glamour as a photo director, a new post. She had been director of the Luhring Augustine Gallery in New York.
CREME BRULE: Don’t cry for Tyler, now that he’s no longer involved with Wallpaper. Tyler Brülé, the design-obsessed founder of Wallpaper, has embarked on an array of fashion-oriented projects through his agency Wink. Wink redesigned the airplane interiors and terminals for Swiss, the national airline. Designers Judith Hugener and Caroline Flueler created new uniforms for the crew, which will be manufactured by Akris. Wink also is helping designer Gabriele Strehle with brand strategy and other creative issues for the label Strenesse. He said the company continues to work with Stella McCartney, for whom Wink designed a corporate logo, but declined to elaborate.
Brülé is also giving retailing a try. Wink developed store concepts for Villa Moda in the Kuwaiti desert and Moncler in St. Moritz and the Wink offices in Zurich will sell toys, books, CDs and Wink-designed products such as a weekend bag manufactured in Florence, men’s and women’s underwear, and scarves and bandannas. If successful, the project could lead to a chain of airport shops. Finally, in October, the company will publish an industry report on trends and developments in design and retailing.