MILAN — Peuterey and Duvetica want a piece of the luxury outerwear action.
This story first appeared in the December 15, 2011 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
Following the well-trod footsteps of brands such as Moncler and Aspesi, the two relatively young labels recently hit Milan’s Golden Triangle luxury shopping area, opening their first flagships here.
Founded in 2001, Peuterey, which is owned by Geospirit, an Italian sportswear manufacturer based in Lucca, Tuscany, chose Via della Spiga as the location for its first boutique. The three-story, 1,507-square-foot space, designed by Ciarmoli Queda Studio, features a mix of natural and high-tech materials, such as oak, leather and carbon fiber. Organized as a museum, where the most iconic pieces are put into durmast frames suspended in the air, the store also features cozy, Thirties-inspired lounges with leather armchairs.
“The opening of the Milan flagship store is part of a strategy aimed to improve our brand awareness and is the first step of a retail project that we will develop over the next five years,” said Geospirit president Francesca Lusini, who revealed that Peuterey is going to open another store in Italy and two elsewhere in Europe in 2012. “Our brand, which has been focused on the Italian market until now, is moving toward internationalization, aiming to reach both Asia and the United States,” she added.
According to Lusini, the Milan boutique, which is expected to break even in one year, is performing very well. “Despite the fact that we opened in November, which traditionally is a slow month in terms of sales, I can say that the store is giving results that are above our expectations,” she said.
Beside the Peuterey collections, which include outerwear as well as total looks for men and women, the store carries Aiguille Noire, a new label launched by Geospirit in 2010.
Within a stone’s throw from Via della Spiga, Venice-based Duvetica opened its fourth flagship, following Courmayeur, Italy, and Tokyo in 2010, and Kitzbühel, Austria, in 2011.
Located on Via Santo Spirito, the boutique, which carries the Duvetica men’s and women’s collections of slim-fitting down jackets, covers the first floor of a two-story, 2,368-square-foot minimal, white and light gray space designed by Japanese architect Tadao Ando. The company’s showroom is on the second floor.
“Duvetica embodies the fusion between a contemporary sensibility and the traditional classic European cultural spirit, where manufacture stands out for its high-quality standards,” Ando stated. “That’s why for the Milan space I opted for a design based on concrete materials and extremely linear, simple and minimal details.”
To complement the boutique’s cement walls, there are two LCD touch-screen displays, which allow customers to get information on the styles available at the store.
Duvetica, which is already selling its collections in 1,600 doors across Europe, the Far East and the U.S., and is planning to open a flagship in New York soon, is expecting to report 30 million euros, or $39 million at current exchange rate, in sales in 2011, up 24 percent from 2010.