Shirt Circuit

Shirting mills favor soft textures and fresh patterns for 2012.

Appeared In
Special Issue
Menswear issue 03/21/2011

Forget the starchy, uptight dress shirts emblematic of the past. Refined fabrics with a soft, ultralight hand are on the horizon for spring-summer 2012, as European shirting mills focus on subtle weave effects and minimalist micro designs.

Cases in point include Thomas Mason’s pinpoint oxford weave, lightened with linen, and Taiana’s silk and cotton blends, which have a soft seersucker texture. In Canclini Tessile’s new line for the season, basic high-resolution microstructures appear to have been painted onto some fabrics, while colored micro designs maintain a British flavor. The mill also creates fabrics with subtle texture by contrasting a compact warp with a thin weft for a printed-stripe effect.

Testa offers double-twisted Egyptian cotton designs with tone-on-tone micro squares and tonal micro checks. Meanwhile, new styles from Albini’s Urban range feature simple patterns developed on a twill base, using 100/1 threads in weft yarns with a twill weave. Among the novelties at Leggiuno are white-and-blue micro-stripes and micro-jacquard flowers on 100 percent cotton. Also looking ahead two summers, S.I.C. Tess proposes supremely light mélange fabrics in pure linen.