MILAN — True to his promise in January to expand and enhance Tod’s men’s wear line with a comprehensive collection spanning outerwear, polos, shirts and pants, chairman and chief executive officer Diego Della Valle has secured a show slot on the official calendar, planning a special performance on Sunday at 3:30 p.m.
This story first appeared in the June 19, 2014 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
This is the first such show for Tod’s men’s wear line, designed by an in-house team. The brand’s women’s collection, designed by Alessandra Facchinetti, made its debut on the runway in September. In a parallel shift, the men’s wear collection is decamping from the traditional Villa Necchi Campiglio location to the PAC contemporary art museum — also the location of the women’s show.
“By now, the Tod’s ready-to-wear and accessories collections are so extensive that this is the right way to show them, even if our concept of a ‘show’ will be different from the usual and, we think, very innovative,” Della Valle told WWD.
Although several brands have most recently seen a spike in men’s wear, Della Valle said that for Tod’s, this division “has always fared well.” That said, he underscored that he still sees growth potential. “Tod’s in ready-to-wear, in accessories and other categories still has much to express and to do to achieve the objectives that we have already accomplished with our success in footwear and leather goods,” he said.
According to the entrepreneur, men are increasingly becoming more attentive to quality and style, seeking elegant products that are practical and reliable at the same time. He believes that Tod’s ideal customer is now seeking a total-look collection from the brand and Della Valle has been investing in growing beyond the label’s core footwear business.
The Tod’s Group, which also comprises the Hogan, Fay and Roger Vivier labels, has been weathering currency headwinds, a weakness in its largest market, Italy, and a rationalization of its wholesale accounts — a strategy that has been denting its bottom line. In the first three months of the year, the company registered a 13.3 percent drop in operating profits to 46.3 million euros, or $63.4 million, on sales that inched up 0.1 percent to 253.8 million euros, or $347.7 million. Commenting on these results, Della Valle said last month that he was “sure to collect further positive results in the midterm,” pointing to “positive feedback” to the group’s winter collections.
Tod’s best-selling items for fall are the City gommino, an evolution of the brand’s staple pebble sole moccasins; the double stripe bag, and the Passport travel jacket, according to the company.