MILAN — Carlo Brandelli, the creative director for venerable Savile Row tailor Kilgour, has left the company, WWD has learned.
According to sources, Brandelli left due to strategic differences with Dubai-based JMH Group, which acquired Kilgour last year.
In the late Nineties, Kilgour tapped Brandelli to create the tailor’s first ready-to-wear collection, and it redesigned its Savile Row shop to showcase the line. He was appointed Kilgour’s creative director in 2003 and, along with the likes of Richard James and Ozwald Boateng, helped bring a new cool to Savile Row.
According to sources, Brandelli’s departure from Kilgour stemmed from the fact that he wanted to continue to build on the brand’s fast-growing ready-to-wear business, while JMH wanted him to focus on bespoke tailoring.
Signs the relationship could be under strain came earlier this year when Kilgour canceled its Paris show, which raised eyebrows after the critical success of the label’s runway debut last year.
In 2007, Brandelli launched a more fashion-oriented line building the Savile Row tailor into a fast developing luxury ready-to-wear business dressing the likes of Jude Law, Daniel Craig and Nick Knight. A second store, featuring a big stingray tank, was opened at 5 Savile Row in order to showcase Kilgour’s growing offering.
Brandelli was chosen as the British Fashion Council men’s wear designer of the year in 2005.
He could not be reached for comment.