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Italian men’s wear company Canali, which celebrates its 80th anniversary this year, is gearing up to unveil the fruits of the collaboration with its new creative consultant, Andrea Pompilio. The up-and-coming designer, who also designs a namesake men’s and women’s label, developed a capsule collection that will be unveiled at the Canali runway show in Milan on Monday.
This story first appeared in the June 19, 2014 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
“I met Stefano Canali [Canali’s general director] through common friends and then he introduced me to the whole family,” Pompilio said. “They were looking for a creative consultant for the show in order to refresh the image of the brand. We immediately clicked and so we started our collaboration.”
Pompilio explained that the capsule collection won’t have a specific label, but will be differentiated from the other pieces in the main line by a small detail decorating the garments.
“For me it’s very important to preserve the DNA of the fashion houses I collaborate with,” said Pompilio, explaining how he approached this partnership with Canali. “I didn’t want to shake up the brand, but my goal was to reinterpret it with my vision, bringing the world of Andrea Pompilio into the Canali world. Canali is a three-generation company with a great heritage. My mission was just to refresh and revamp that heritage with my colors and my signature details.”
He didn’t start from a single inspiration to design the capsule. “I’m a great observer, and in my collections I always try to translate those elements, making clothes look connected with our contemporary world,” he said.
For Canali, Pompilio focused on sportswear, “designing iconic pieces for a classic yet easy man,” said the designer. These include colorful peacoats and trenches offered in various materials. Pompilio also approached tailoring, delivering jackets and pants “with new proportions,” which come in unusual fabrics and featuring micro checks, horizontal stripes and textured, three-dimensional effects. The color palette ranges from classic hues, including white, ivory and blue, to “more eye-catching, contrasting tones.”
According to the company, the pricing of the capsule collection, which will be available at the Canali boutiques and in selected multibrand stores worldwide, is in line with the main range.
“We really tried to avoid things which could fall too much outside of the Canali world,” Pompilio said. “We kept the capsule in line with the main offering not only in terms of style but also positioning and pricing.”
Functionality, luxury fabrics and high-tech constructions are the key elements of the OAMC (Over All Master Cloth) men’s wear fashion label.
Founded in 2012 by former Supreme creative director Lucas Meier, the brand, which is based between Paris and Milan, offers a new, refined take on traditional workwear pieces with high-end collections entirely produced in Europe and Japan.
Despite its focus on outerwear, which includes pieces decorated with trims and hardware developed specifically by the brand, OAMC delivers a total collection that ranges from knitwear, woven shirts and pants to shoes, leather goods and accessories.
For spring, Meier embraced a nautical inspiration, incorporating ripstops, multiﬁber ropes, layered fabrics, sailcloth, laminates, perforation, reﬂective materials, and safety ﬂuo colors. In keeping with the theme, the designer also played with transparencies and iconic semaphore flags. The more technical elements and materials were also combined with luxury fabrics, such as Japanese nylon, Italian cottons and linens, Loro Piana lightweight performance wool and naturally tanned leathers.
The collection retails from 250 euros, or $339 at current exchange rate, for shirts, to 1,250 euros, or $1,693, for the more elaborated outerwear pieces.
OAMC, which is distributed by the Tomorrow showroom in Milan and Paris, currently sells its collections to a number of high-end stores around the world, including Colette in Paris, Antonia in Milan, Tokyo’s United Arrows, Selfridges in London, Union Los Angeles and Nomad in Toronto, among others.
Emerging designer Christian Pellizzari will unveil his spring men’s collection at Giorgio Armani’s Armani Theater in Milan on Saturday.
“It’s incredible to do my first runway show under the patronage of Giorgio Armani,” said Pellizzari, who is the most recent young designer to have the opportunity to hold a show there. Previously, Armani opened the doors of its theater to fashion talents including Andrea Pompilio, Stella Jean, Julian Zigerli and Au Jour le Jour’s Diego Marquez and Mirko Fontana.
Pellizzari launched his namesake label in 2010 and presented his first men’s collection in January 2011.
“The idea of starting to design my own collection was born from a personal need — I couldn’t find what I had in mind in the stores,” said the designer, who three years ago also introduced a women’s collection.
After graduating with a degree in fashion design from Florence’s Polimoda, Pellizzari cut his teeth at Italian tailoring company Tonello. “When I started, they were producing only jackets, so I introduced a total look,” he said. Four years later, in 2007, Pellizzari moved to Paris, where he joined Vionnet, which at that time was still in the hands of Arnaud de Lummen and other family members. “I passed from working on high-end yet industrial collections to couturelike products. It was magic,” said Pellizzari, who moved to another French label, called Jay Ahr, when Matteo Marzotto and Gianni Castiglioni acquired Vionnet in 2009, bringing the company to Milan. At Jay Ahr, Pellizzari developed rich collections of elegant cocktail dresses embellished with drapes and embroideries. Two years later, the designer decided to return to Italy and launch his own label.
“In men’s wear, I like to mix and match different ideas and styles — for example, I tend to revisit traditional sartorial pieces with unconventional fabrics,” Pellizzari said.
For his spring collection, the designer is focusing on outerwear and jackets.
“I thought of a new idea for the jacket, which is deconstructed and reduced to the essential — it’s just fabric and particular stitches,” said Pellizzari, adding that he mainly worked in cotton and silk jacquard. Pants will come in two models: one more fitted, the other softer, but both showing the ankles. “There will also be many suits, along with new jackets in distressed, washed leather,” Pellizzari revealed, adding that the collection will include a colorful floral print. The palette will be centered on black, white, Klee blue and a soft red.
Pellizzari men’s collection, which retails from 250 euros, or $338 at current exchange rate, for pants, to 550 euros, or $745, for jackets, is sold in 30 multibrand stores worldwide, especially in the Far East, including Hong Kong and Tokyo. “My next goals are to enter the U.S. market and to reinforce our presence in emerging markets, including the Middle East,” said the designer, who hopes to open his first flagship in Milan in the next few years.
Italian high-end contemporary brand Mauro Grifoni is hosting an event Sunday at its boutique on Via Santo Spirito.
During the cocktails, Grifoni won’t only present the company’s spring collection, but will also unveil a new store concept. Starting this month, the label, founded in 1992 by Mauro Grifoni, Ilaria Sesso and Andrea Breda, will open the doors of its flagship to a selection of up-and-coming Italian brands, whose collections will be sold next to Grifoni’s offering. Among the labels available at the store will be Andrea Pompilio, Francesco Balestrazzi, Giannico, Vitussi, Greta Boldini, Di Morabito, Fabio Costì, Sylvio Giardina, Roberto Fragata, Valentina Brugnatelli, Gianluca Soldi, Mauro Gridoni, Malibù 1992 and Vincent Billeci.
“It will be a sort of creative factory, where arts will penetrate in the store even more, to reinforce the experience of Corridor & Stairs, the art gallery next to our flagship,” said Sesso, Grifoni’s head designer. At Corridor & Stairs, the label will also present the visual projects of Venice-based TankBoys design studio, as well as the pictures of Japanese photographer Keizo Kitajima.
Earlier this month, Mauro Grifoni re-launched its Web site. The new maurogrifoni.com, which also sells the brand’s products, has been designed to resemble a digital magazine, updated weekly with all the news regarding the labels, from events to new collections.
On the product side, for spring Grifoni will present a collection “for a sophisticated and elegant man,” Sesso said. “The whole look is kind of minimal, but the pieces disclose particular details.”
A subtle marine theme runs through the collection: anchors decorate jacquard sweaters and deep tones of blue give a fresh, summery feel to the wardrobe, which includes oversize outerwear pieces, military-inspired cotton gabardine pants and oxford shirts. Sesso also revisited traditional sweaters offered in new variations mixing cotton with textured fabrics showing tie-inspired micro patterns. Retail prices range between 200 and 1,200 euros, or $271 and $1,625 at current exchange.
Grifoni, which introduced a men’s line in 1998, sells its collections in about 700 stores and operates five flagships — three in Italy in Milan, Verona and Padua, as well as Berlin and Amsterdam.
According to Sesso, by the end of the year, the label will inaugurate new doors in Barcelona, Rome, Tokyo and Monte Carlo.
The leather accessories company Bertoni is making its debut at Milan Fashion Week with a presentation Sunday at the Erastudio Apartment Gallery in the arty Brera district.
Founded in 1949 by Riccardo Bertoni, the Varese, Italy-based company — which has made a name for itself by producing special leather pieces for a number of luxury companies, such as Prada, Fendi and Ralph Lauren — is launching a namesake label.
The minds behind the launch of the Bertoni label are Pietro and Gaia Bertoni, members of the family’s third generation. Their father, Alberto Bertoni, is chairman and chief executive officer of the company. The brand specializes in the production of luxury bags and suitcases.
For spring, Bertoni will present a collection inspired by the chic, elegant travelers of the past, but revisited with contemporary elements. The line includes a unisex Heritage Collection, consisting of trunks and suitcases covered with white parchment with contrasting dark blue linings and dark brown alligator details, along with a men’s-specific collection. This features two product ranges — Structured includes travel pieces in alligator and French calf with thick borders, and Foldable is made up of deconstructed soft calf maxi bags which, as the name implies, can be easily folded.
Bertoni will also unveil Nomad Trunk, a made-to-measure hyper-luxury piece designed by Hangar Design Group. Completely covered with parchment, Nomad Trunk discloses a writing desk with a seat and compartments in painted oak tree with black alligator details.
Retail prices range from 500 euros, or $678 at current exchange, for an iPad case in French calf, to 20,000 euros, or $27,124, for an alligator travel bag.
“When your passion and your job coincide, you feel forced to look for perfection, and that’s what’s happening to my children Pietro and Gaia,” Alberto Bertoni said. “Our goal is to grow and become a company able to greatly combine creativity and craftsmanship. We aim to satisfy customers’ need for new things with fascinating, unique products.”