MILAN — Trussardi is set to relaunch the Tru Trussardi label during a “MashTru” party Monday at the iconic Magazzini Generali club here.
This story first appeared in the June 19, 2014 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
During the event, where the label will unveil its men’s and women’s spring 2015 collection, French singer Cécile Cassel, aka HollySiz, will perform live.
“In the past, Tru Trussardi has always been a diffusion line, very commercial, but we recently felt the necessity to create a specific identity for the label, considering its great potential in international markets,” said Gaia Trussardi, creative director of the Trussardi Group brands.
“According to international studies, the premium segment, which includes brands like Tru Trussardi, Emporio Armani and Red Valentino, is growing and is supposed to continue growing in both the ready-to-wear and accessories categories,” added Tomaso Trussardi, chief executive officer of TRS Evolution, a Trussardi Group company that produces and distributes apparel and accessory lines.
The group currently produces three labels: Trussardi, Tru Trussardi and Trussardi Jeans. “They all participate in communicating a specific vision and a clear taste,” said Gaia Trussardi, who explained the main differences between the Trussardi and the Tru Trussardi brands. “While the main line includes the most iconic elements of Trussardi’s world, representing the label’s craftsmanship and heritage, Tru Trussardi has a younger, free and more individualistic spirit, reflecting the lifestyle of contemporary young adults who travel around the globe, are informed about trends and want to express their own style. While in the past people wanted to embody the identity of a brand, nowadays customers want to express themselves through what they buy.”
In addition, Gaia Trussardi noted that, compared with the main line, Tru Trussardi offers a wider merchandise mix and the collections are less elaborate, more playful and colorful.
In particular, for spring 2015, the designer said she was inspired by Johnny Depp in the Nineties. “It’s quite eccentric and eclectic,” she said. The lineup, which features a subtle funky vibe, includes outerwear pieces in treated leather, a lightweight Windbreaker showing a fresh banana pattern, along with jogger pants and oversize pleated trousers. The house’s signature greyhound, wearing mirrored sunglasses, comes printed on a T-shirt worn with a chambray suit in a Hawaiian motif. In addition, Gaia Trussardi used some of the prints from the label’s tie archive to decorate classic cotton shirts, along with a high-end nylon puffer and a jacket in Flowater, a special waterproof leather. The collection also includes a wide offering of denim pants, embellished with prints and special treatments.
According to Tomaso Trussardi, the collection’s pricing is competitive. Denim retails at between 130 and 150 euros, or $176 to $203 at current exchange, while 50 percent of the leather pieces are below 500 euros, or $677.
Tru Trussardi, which accounts for 35 percent of the Trussardi company’s total business and counts Russia, China and southern Europe as its main markets, is sold in the label’s 80 flagships and 70 multibrand stores in the world. The firm’s collections are not sold in the U.S., but American customers can purchase them at the company’s online store. Tomaso Trussardi said that, in the next two years, the company hopes to increase the penetration of the Tru Trussardi label, reaching 200 stores. In order to reach that goal, the company is in talks with a new distributor in Russia and is revising its strategies in Asia to enter the Asia-Pacific market.
In 2013, Trussardi posted revenues of 153 million euros, or $209.6 million at average exchange.