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Special Issue
Men'sWeek issue 01/12/2012

MILAN — As preparations for the upcoming runway shows enter their final phase, top designers and brands took a moment to share their inspirations for the upcoming season. Everything from radical rebels to the modern traveler will be represented at the men’s shows here, which kick off Friday.

This story first appeared in the January 12, 2012 issue of WWD.  Subscribe Today.

DIESEL BLACK GOLD, creative team
“The collection we are presenting in Milan represents an evolution of our roots: It draws inspiration once again from military constructions and vintage biker pieces with added Seventies-style cuts. The rich fabrics, the refined leathers and exquisite finishings, not to mention special treatments, give a new role to these clothes. The ‘cleanest’ cuts lend the garments an alternative elegance. This is our vision of the contemporary man.”


NEXT: Moncler Gamme Bleu, Thom Browne >>


“…Formula One…”


NEXT: Dirk Bikkembergs >>


DIRK BIKKEMBERGS, Dirk Bikkembergs
“The new winter collection shows the evolution of Dirk Bikkembergs design: From products with strong references to the world of sport to a lifestyle offer for a contemporary man who likes style and formal elegance but who doesn’t renounce comfort. The jersey suit is the symbol of this evolution.”


NEXT: Etro, Kean Etro >>


ETRO, Kean Etro
“I was born free, free as the eagle that flies over the great blue sky, a light wind touches its face. I will be free.”


NEXT: Calvin Klein Collection, Italo Zucchelli >>


“Urban life.”


NEXT: Moschino, Rossella Jardini >>


MOSCHINO, Rossella Jardini
“Warmhearted! Chesterfield coat in Prince of Wales check, padded in goose down.”


NEXT: Iceberg, Iceberg creative team >>


ICEBERG, Iceberg creative team
“Charlie Chaplin in modern times.”


NEXT: Umit Benan, Umit Benan >>


UMIT BENAN, Umit Benan
“The War has ended. The boys are going back home.”


NEXT: Versace, Donatella Versace >>


VERSACE, Donatella Versace
“The Versace man is an icon of masculinity, a leader of the pack.”


NEXT: DSquared2, Dean and Dan Caten >>


DSQUARED2, Dean and Dan Caten
“A radical-chic Dsquared2 boy rebel university student from a good family but with a very bad rep and attitude.”


NEXT: Ports 1961, Ian Hylton >>


PORTS 1961, Ian Hylton
“Contemporary sensuality and sense of style…a theorem proved in the formal language of an elegant overturned obelisk to focus the upper body of the committed businessman, slenderized silhouettes with broader peaked, strong shoulders and svelted waist. It’s the expression of the moral rigor and devotion to his work.”


NEXT: Vivienne Westwood Man, Andreas Kronthaler >>


“The next Vivienne Westwood Man autumn-winter 2012-13 collection is in support of David Attenborough’s documentary series “The Frozen Planet,” which will come to America but unfortunately without the final episode where he explains that we humans are responsible for the ice melt. So we took the polar explorers as our heros, and we love polar bears.”

NEXT: Roberto Cavalli, Roberto Cavalli >>


ROBERTO CAVALLI, Roberto Cavalli
“The determined, self-confident Roberto Cavalli man heads toward the future: His relaxed demeanor is an expression of his elegance.”

NEXT: Ermenegildo Zegna, Anne Zegna, image director >>


ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA, Anna Zegna, image director
“The Ermenegildo Zegna man arrives quietly: His BlackBerry is always connected to global financial uncertainty, but he is determined to take a break. He travels in style, with suitcases luxuriously packed for impromptu occasions that certainly don’t include a stay at an isolated ski cabin. His social life remains a priority, both on the slopes and in the most exclusive lodges. The adaptation of his wardrobe to the environment happens by degrees, creating incredible combinations between formal and sporty pieces, with each garment fashioned from the finest materials and precisely infused with sartorial details.”


NEXT: Les Hommes, Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch >>


LES HOMMES, Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch
“The collection is inspired by South American tribal clothes. Fascinated by the use of knitwear and traditional Peruvian color schemes, we reinterpreted this tribal theme through the work of modernist artist Peter Halley.”


NEXT: Nicole Farhi, Massimo Nicosla >>


NICOLE FARHI, Massimo Nicosia
“2012 Grand Tour. West meets East. The collection provides a wardrobe for a modern traveler who loves to collect pieces all over the globe. It is a contemporary Grand Tour for a backpacker with a dandy attitude who travels from Heathrow in minus-3 degree weather and arrives in Hong Kong ready for 33 degree weather.”

NEXT: Missoni, Angela Missoni >>


MISSONI, Angela Missoni
“Sharp artisanal elegance.”


NEXT: Pringle of Scotland, Allstair Carr >>


“The autumn-winter collection is not restricted by a specific theme or vision but instead inspired by a real man’s wardrobe and the pieces he wants to wear. The range invokes a confident masculinity: Soft, luxurious fabrics are realized in structured shapes and mixed with tougher elements to achieve a look that is polished but worn with ease.”

NEXT: Trussardi, Umit Benan >>

“I was deeply inspired by Jackie Stewart, the former world champion, and by his strong personality, charisma, and passion for cars, which is something he and the men of the Trussardi family had in common. The collection represents the “life in the fast track” of this cool icon of style. After the race, satisfied by his performance, Jackie leaves the track and focuses on his private life. Every item and outfit expresses self-confidence, timeless elegance, and the dynamism of classy sportwear, which are all found in the active soul of Trussardi and its quest for excellence.”

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