MILAN — Milan is as much about the accessories as the clothes — and this season offered more than ever, as designers showed lots of hats, different interpretations of the scarf, umbrellas and lots of gloves. Shoes had equestrian details; briefcases were in textured leathers and fabrics, and suitcases came in exotic skins and even fur. Here, a roundup of the key accessories presentations of the season:
This story first appeared in the January 18, 2012 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
• Tod’s continues to build its lifestyle collection with soft suede shearling jackets, crocodile or embossed calf totes and practical wallets. Footwear remains the Italian luxury brand’s core business, and for fall Tod’s showed formal lace-up loafers with rounded toes, contrasting with more casual and featherlight rubber soles.
• Taking a cue from F. Scott Fitzgerald, Hogan displayed a laid-back, understated collection of brushed, distressed nubuck, suede or sheepskin sneakers.
• At Sergio Rossi, creative director Francesco Russo re-elaborated the brand’s formal staples by mixing Eastern and Western styles, streetwear and bourgeois inspirations. Case in point: the ankle boot with elastic inserts and accents of brightly colored rubber soles or combat boots with scuba-gear details.
• Valextra worked a high-performance and virtually indestructible fabric made of Kevlar fibers and polyamide into totes and travel bags, at times accenting the calfskin handles and trims in canary yellow, orange or green. It also showed a new calfskin briefcase with two front pockets and a detachable shoulder strap.
• Creative director Alberto Moretti injected a new twist into Arfango’s signature velvet slippers, which were decorated with gold studs, mirrors, Swarovski crystals, sequins and burlesque-inspired embroideries. “Considering the difficult, dark times, we wanted to do something ironic and fun, which can help to take on life in a more carefree manner,” Moretti said.
• The Eighties served as the main inspiration for Cesare Paciotti’s collection, which included studded combat boots embellished with tassels and lapin details, or colorful, flexible loafers lined with fur. Paciotti also played with proportions, as shown on a derby shoe featuring an oversize rubber sole with contrast stitching.
• Gianvito Rossi reimagined the leather sneaker, which came both in low- or high-top versions. Available with shoelaces or straps, it showed an elongated silhouette and perfect proportions. In addition, there was a style with a zip on the back. The off-white rubber sole was paired with the upper in a range of colors — from black and deep brown to camel and green. Rossi also introduced a loafer and a lace-up style, featuring ponyskin, snakeskin and printed suede details.
• The All Over collection was launched at Fratelli Rossetti. Loafers, derby shoes, ankle boots and combat boots were completely hand-painted in one color by artisans, which takes at least three days. The color palette ranged from blueberry and burgundy to teal and bottle green.
• Bally’s designers Graeme Fidler and Michael Herz were in a sporty mood this season, updating the traditional curling shoe, which can spin 360 degrees on the ice, into high-top and low-top versions, and turning out a host of hiking boots and sheepskin-lined boots with buckles on the sides. Outerwear was made with mountain men in mind: Tweed jackets and zippers were waterproof, while coats were made from a mix of Shetland wool and leather.
• With the Mayfair playboy as its abiding muse, Jimmy Choo has expanded its offer this season. New additions include a side-zip, Jimi Hendrix-inspired boot in psychedelic-colored python, and leather high-top sneakers. The brand expanded some of its current ranges, adding shearling lining to driving shoes, and mixing a subtle suit-of-card motif into the perforations at the tip of the brogue boots and shoes. The brand also expanded its range of evening slippers, covering them in Persian lamb or salt-and-pepper glitter.
• Under its creative director, Alessandro Fumagalli, Zagliani remained true to its luxury heritage. The designer worked exotic skins, including ostrich, crocodile, python and karung lizard into practical pieces such as luggage trolleys, briefcases, sturdy duffel bags and rucksacks.