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Men’s Wear: New School

A new generation of emerging designers is injecting a sporty, youthful energy into the American fashion arena.

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Appeared In
Special Issue
Men'sWeek issue 10/10/2013

A new class of young designers is laying down roots and establishing labels in the men’s market. Among the more promising newcomers is Fingers Crossed, founded and designed by Ryu Hayama, with a spring look shown here. Born and raised in Tokyo, he studied mechanical engineering at prestigious Waseda University, but then moved to New York to learn men’s fashion design at FIT. He launched his label this year, targeting men who appreciate fit, details and workmanship with an American heritage aesthetic.

NEXT: Proper Gang >>


PROPER GANG

Location: New York

Name of the designer: Max Vanderwoude Gross

Personal and professional background: From Bucks County, Pa., he attended Parsons The New School for Design and graduated with a degree in the Design and Management program. Previously he worked at Opening Ceremony and Acne.

Year established: 2012

Retailers: Dover Street Market (London and Japan), Opening Ceremony

Price points: $200 to $3,000

Target customer: The insiders; men, women and transgendered ages 18 to 88.

NEXT: Pyer Moss >>


PYER MOSS

Location: New York

Name of the designer: Kerby Jean-Raymond

Personal and professional background: From Brooklyn, N.Y., he graduated from Hofstra University with a bachelor of business administration degree in entrepreneurship and business law. Previously he worked at Marchesa.

Year established: 2013

Retailers: Brown’s, Ssense

Price points: Knit shirts, $85 to $500; woven tops and sweaters, $200 to $800; pants, $200 to $1,500; jackets, $650 to $2,500.

Existing brand role model: Phillip Lim in regards to wearability and price.

Aesthetic: Luxury sportswear.

Target customer: 22- to 38-year-old men, or the older man who just feels 22. A guy who likes to be different but not outrageous and is searching the hashtags #nyfw, #madefw or #menswear in hopes that something new and cool will come up on their phone screen for discovery.

NEXT: LongJourney >>


LONGJOURNEY

Location: Los Angeles

Name of the designers: Alonzo Ester and Alex Carapetian

Personal and professional background: Carapetian and Ester are originally from Los Angeles, where they worked as buyers, stylists and consultants in the retail industry.

Year established: 2012

Market niche: Artisanal sportswear blended with luxury vintage.

Retailers: Maxfield (Los Angeles), Bergdorf Goodman (New York), Louis Boston (Boston), Alchemist (Miami), Barneys Japan (Japan), Restir (Japan).

Price points: Jersey, $255; bottoms, $230 to $850; outerwear, $1,000 to $1,500; footwear, $500 to $600.

Target customer: Someone that embraces their perfect imperfections and uniqueness, and appreciates those qualities in LongJourney.

NEXT: Jake Oliver >>


JAKE OLIVER

Location: New York

Name of the designer: Jake Oliver

Personal and professional background: Originally from Arkansas, Oliver studied men’s wear design at the Fashion Institute of Technology. Previously he worked at Betsey Johnson, Costello Tagliapietra and Barneys New York.

Year established: 2013

Market niche: Progressive, integrative men’s wear, filling a void in the men’s market that reaches the clientele that visits both sides of the store.

Price points: Wholesale is $350 to $1,500.

Existing brand role models: Thom Browne, The Row, Nike.

Aesthetic: Hints of classic Americana and traditional sportswear.

Target customer: The modern, confident, on-trend man with a taste for luxury and a contrarian inclination.

 

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