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Italian accessories brands are going back to their roots by placing the focus on the country’s long-standing artisanal craftsmanship while raising the experimentation bar.
This story first appeared in the January 22, 2009 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
Tod’s mined the past with moccasins labeled with the original JP Tod’s logo and pebble-sole boots in brushed leather or suede as part of the Tod’s Icons collection. Two-tone brogues with contrasting stitching had matte-shiny finishes. The season’s standout bag came in a technical fabric featuring a double strip of calf leather that can be personalized with a choice of colors and initials.
At Hogan, the new high-top croc sneakers in combinations of black and gray or beige and brown were a luxe take on sportif chic.
New creative director Francesco Russo gave formal looks a contemporary spin for his first Sergio Rossi men’s collections. Roomy brushed-suede satchels and totes with zips conveyed a casual look while tonal, bicolor laced shoes had a retro and broken-in flair. Sergio Rossi also joined forces with Puma for a revisitation of its iconic sports Clyde shoe from the Seventies in suede and patent.
Prada-owned British footwear brand Church’s seriously rounded out its offerings with weekend bags made from boiled wool in contrasting yellows and browns, reds and blues; knitted, woven, silk and cashmere ties and scarves; belts; gloves and even umbrellas with crook handles in chestnut and silver collars.
Valextra also expanded with Nabuk travel jackets lined in the brand’s signature green. The company, which added chestnut brown to its palette, was spot on with the hardware, zip trend in Milan with lip-edged and side-zipped constructed cases.
Fratelli Rossetti emphasized handmade craftsmanship with “under-leather” stitching visible on the toe. While concealed, the thick stitches are reminiscent of a tattoo pattern reproducing the brand’s staple flower motifs.
In addition to a sequined shoe dedicated to football player David Beckham, Cesare Paciotti showed Texas boots and oxford shoes hand-dipped in paint for a dégradé effect.