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Tailored Firms Loosen Up

Tailoring houses continued their love affair with sportswear for spring.

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Tailoring houses continued their love affair with sportswear for spring.

“Our sportswear business is growing fast — knits, jeans, swimwear, blazers that can be worn with jeans, it’s a new way of dressing,” said Antonio Paone, president of Kiton USA. A slimmer, shorter silhouette for jackets, a denim cashmere blazer, suede blouson and a trench made from water-repellent leather figured among new directions for the Neapolitan tailor. “It’s for the Kiton customer on the weekend,” said Paone.

Continuing its lifestyle push, PPR-owned Brioni is harnessing sportswear to add a younger dimension to its universe. Helping bring the concept to life, the house tapped a range of personalities to model its new collection at an outdoor presentation in the gardens of Milan’s Palazzo della Triennale.

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Younger, sportier and more colorful in allure, silhouettes were slim, with lean one- and two-button, slightly shorter jackets and a peg trouser. Highlights included a summery one-button linen silk suit worn with a knit-collar sport shirt, a denim blazer and colored knits inspired by Fifties furniture fabrics. “It’s all about lifestyle, just taking the Brioni man outside and putting him in a much more relaxed setting….It’s also allowing the Brioni man to learn that he can break down his wardrobe and break down the rules on how he dresses,” said Jason Basmajian, artistic director.

Even esoteric Milanese tailored clothing label Uman dabbled in sportswear this season, albeit retaining sartorial details, with a capsule line inspired by the mariner jacket the house presented two years ago. New product included a Harrington jacket with wind pockets and crewneck knits in Sea Island cotton.

Caruso’s tailoring offer took a more youthful turn, with slim pants and a shorter, two-button jacket silhouette with wider, higher lapels.

Canali’s beefed-up sportswear included sleek leather biker and bomber jackets and knitted polo shirts with 3-D geometric patterns. But Canali also remained true to its sartorial roots, and showcased many of this season’s major trends, including lightweight summer raincoats, high-buttoned blazers and single-pleat trousers. The shimmering evening jackets in palmlike baroque patterns were crazy, but fun.

Corneliani worked in signature pearl gray and biscuit tones, and key pieces included airy knits and summer leathers, such as a dove gray napa safari jacket or a sporty perforated suede blazer. Easy pants and softly tailored jackets in silk and linen weaves inspired by winter tweeds lent a bucolic flavor. Barring the strong-shouldered shiny tailoring that felt a tad outdated, a range of deconstructed suits with wide-lapel jackets evoked easy elegance, accessorized with roman sandals or open-weave leather espadrilles.

At Daks, creative director Filippo Scuffi whipped up trenches in khaki with bright orange details and vice versa.

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