MILAN — “This is a dream come true.” Describing the launch of Ermenegildo Zegna's first bespoke service, an upbeat Gildo Zegna, chief executive officer of the family-owned company, said he had been mulling the idea of the project for years. Working with artistic director Alessandro Sartori allowed the brand to finally turn the concept into reality.The service is offered out of an atelier in a historical palazzo in Milan on central Via Bigli, with a separate entrance that ensures privacy, but that is also connected to the men's wear brand's Via Montenapoleone flagship. "This is the ideal venue," said Zegna on Tuesday, opening the doors of the sophisticated location, which covers 1,155 square feet, and is decorated with a Pietro Russo console; armchairs and a large wooden table by Ignazio Gardella; a metal armoire by Massimiliano Locatelli; lamps by Fontana Arte, and a rug inspired by Giò Ponti. Geometric decors pay homage to the storied Villa Necchi Campiglio in Milan and the interiors hark back to the Fifties.Six tailors work at the atelier, but they are set to travel around the world by appointment.“Fashion runs too quickly now, propelled by a digital push," said Zegna. "We must go back to the times when going to a tailor was a rite. We must change the pace." He waved away the see-now-buy-now trend as mainly a "marketing tool," although he conceded the company itself had applied it to its "made-to-measure" service. At his runway show in January, Sartori presented a su misura, or customized, grouping for which customers could place orders the next day. Fifteen out of 45 looks that were shown on the catwalk were su misura and available in nine of the company’s stores globally.To further clarify, Zegna explained that the made-to-measure service works with "a standard paper pattern modified for the customer," while bespoke tailoring works with a pattern modeled specifically after the customer's measurements.Zegna's bespoke service includes four fittings, 200 steps and 75 hours of work. The garment is delivered after three months."This is at the same time the utmost expression of tradition and the height of modernity," said Sartori.There are 1,000 variations of fabric, mostly from the company's state-of-the-art mill and plant Lanificio Zegna in Trivero, Italy, and 230 kinds of materials for shirts. "Who else can do bespoke on fabrics? It would be silly for us not do it," claimed the executive. The company repaired 10 vintage looms from the early 1900s, placing them at its headquarters, to work on the project.Sartori emphasized the "intimate relation that is created between the customer, the tailor and the clothes." The name of the customer can be applied on the selvage. "It's like personalizing your car," added Zegna. Customers have access to the company's extensive fabric archives.The designer also underscored "the single experience, hooked on the runway in terms of style."Prices range from 5,000 to 10,000 euros, or $5,339 to $10,677, for a suit. A shirt is priced at between 500 euros and 700 euros, or $534 and $747. Shoes, which were first presented in November at London's newly refurbished New Bond Street flagship, are priced upward of 5,500 euros, or $5,872. The shoes are made by Gaziano and Girling, the decade-old British shoemaker that has a shop on Savile Row. The Zegna shoes, which take more than six months to make, come in nine styles, including a double monk, a dress oxford and a jodhpur boot.Sartori underscored that customers are not limited to suits. While one model at the atelier wore a silk jacquard paisley jacket over elegant pants, others donned bespoke cashmere jogging pants, a cashmere coat, a nubuck waterproof jacket and an angora bomber jacket. Labels and buttons are also personalized."In the end, this is a service," observed Zegna. "This is an incredible market, there are so many people who can't find their size and also, we offer style advice. Alessandro himself is available to offer suggestions."
Supermodel @helenachristensen teamed up with longtime friend and designer @camillastaerk on a joint @paredeyewear collaboration. The lineup features three styles and 11 offerings, all of which embody a vintage feel. Get all the details on how they celebrated the collab on WWD.com. #wwdaccessories #wwdeye (📷: @slovekinpics)
“It’s a hard industry to keep motivated, as well, so finding different subjects and people is what makes it worth it – when you’re like, oh, I’ve met great people, I feel like I’ve done something good, and I feel proud of having done this,” said French actress Stacy Martin on being grateful for the variety of roles she’s take on. Read @ktauer’s full interview with Martin on her her latest film “Godard Mon Amour.” #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
After showing in front of the Eiffel Tower for his last two women’s ready-to-wear collection, it looks like @anthonyvaccarello may be heading to the Big Apple. Sources say the designer will stage his next @ysl show in NYC on June 6. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
EXCLUSIVE: Two and half months after John Targon, cofounder and codesigner of Baja East, was hired as creative director of the contemporary division at Marc Jacobs, he has left the company, WWD has learned. Marc Jacobs International, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, confirmed Targon’s departure in a statement: “John Targon is a talented designer and we appreciate the work he has done here. Ultimately working together did not make sense for the brand and we wish him the best.” Read the story by @jessiredale, link in bio. #wwdnews
@theluxurycollection is officially launching a collection, tapping Sofia Sanchez de Betak for the capsule. Over 30 styles will be featured in the Chufy x The Luxury Collection, debuting next month at Bergdorf Goodman, The Webster, FiveStory and more. De Betak, known as “@chufy,” drew inspiration for the collection from her trips to Japan in the past year #wwdfashion
@lhd, founder and CEO of @thewebster, has teamed up with @lebonmarcherivegauche for the European launch of her ready-to-wear line, LHD. The launch will come with an exclusive pop-up opening today that’s set to run through May 20. Located on the second floor, it carries her debut Miami-themed resort collection, launched in November as see-now-buy-now. #wwdfashion