Off-White showed its spring men's line at Pitti Uomo.
The men’s fashion calendar is in a state of flux.The rise of the co-ed show, where major designers are opting to show their men’s wear during the traditional February and September women’s dates, is seriously impinging on the men’s market.Probably the hardest hit this past season was Milan Men’s Fashion Week, following the decisions by Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Missoni and Etro to go co-ed.London was also impacted. The big names — including Burberry, Alexander McQueen, Tom Ford and Moschino — all decided to show in different cities or formats, while a number of smaller calendar stalwarts were absent, too, including Sibling, which went into voluntary liquidation earlier this year; Agi & Sam, which is restrategizing, and Casely-Hayford, which is switching its focus to retail.One bright spot on the European circuit was Pitti Uomo, the international trade show in Florence. The most recent edition in June found a calendar chock-full of shows and presentations that included J.W. Anderson and Off-White events along with special guests such as Hugo Boss, Christian Louboutin, Federico Curradi and Alanui.Paris seemed to hold its own the best, with a bevy of new names added to the spring calendar to join the big guns: Louis Vuitton, Dries Van Noten, Dior Homme, Balenciaga, Haider Ackermann, Rick Owens, Valentino, Kenzo and Comme des Garçons.Paris also saw the addition of some American designers, including John Elliott, Tim Coppens, Heron Preston, Amiri and Teddy Santis. And Harlem native A$AP Bari, a member of the A$AP Mob collective, presented his first collection of cut-and-sewn pieces for Vlone.The influx of Americans to Paris contributed to a less-than-stellar spring edition of New York Fashion Week: Men’s, where the list of missing names — Tommy Hilfiger, Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Michael Kors, Thom Browne, Joseph Abboud, John Varvatos and others — was seemingly longer than those who opted to participate.Raf Simons, with his "Blade Runner”-inspired show in an alley in Chinatown, was undoubtedly the highlight of the otherwise lackluster week. And while some other big American brands did present in New York — Todd Snyder, Boss, Perry Ellis — the calendar was filled with a lot of unknown names and smaller brands.The situation may become even more perilous in February when the Council of Fashion Designers of America, the organizers of the event, will move to a “decentralized model.” The shows will leave their longtime home at Skylight Clarkson Sq in TriBeCa and the CFDA is searching out a variety of venues around the city — penthouses, hotels, galleries, screening rooms, exhibition spaces — to house shows. It is also working with the Skylight Group to identify other potential spots around town where shows can be held.Despite the growing pains for the New York men’s shows, which have been separated from women’s for five seasons, the CFDA is committed to continuing with them and will still provide financial support for the small, emerging brands. “Our support to the designers is just evolving,” said Mark Beckham, vice president of marketing for the CFDA.
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty