Could the coed trend wind up killing separate men’s fashion weeks?That’s the question organizers and industry followers are asking as the latest round of runway shows gets ready to kick off.The fall 2018 men’s calendar will begin in London this weekend, followed by Milan and then Paris. New York’s men’s shows will bring the season to a close after they wrap up their three-day run Feb. 5 to 7.Some of the biggest names, both in Europe and the States, are now eschewing men’s-only shows in favor of combining their men’s offering with women’s in one cohesive package.And so in London, the men’s calendar was wiped of Burberry, JW Anderson and Vivienne Westwood, while in Milan, Roberto Cavalli, Salvatore Ferragamo, Moncler, Gucci, Missoni, Jil Sander and Moschino have all opted to show on the women’s calendar. In Paris, Saint Laurent, Givenchy and Balenciaga all jumped ship, too.There are exceptions such as Dsquared2, Vetements and Etro, which are sticking with the men’s calendar, and Bottega Veneta, which is actually showing during New York Fashion Week this time to help promote the opening of its new store there.But perhaps the most vulnerable is the less-established New York Fashion Week: Men’s. Created by the Council of Fashion Designers of America in July 2015, the sixth edition will be one day shorter and devoid of many of the big-name designers that help move the needle in American men’s fashion.This time around, CFDA has shifted the dates so that the men’s shows are held the three days before women’s begins its seven-day run on Feb. 8. The goal was to create “one 10-day fashion week,” according to Mark Beckham, vice president of marketing for the organization.As a result, nowhere on the men’s calendar will you find the names Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger or Calvin Klein. Coach, Tom Ford, Michael Kors and even some of the more-directional labels such as John Elliott, Opening Ceremony and Linder are all on the women’s part of the calendar, while Public School said it was going to launch a new direct-to-consumer model instead of showing at all.To be fair, there are still designers committed to NYFW: Men’s, including Joseph Abboud and Perry Ellis, both of which are returning this season, and Raf Simons, who has been a mainstay since he was tapped as the creative director of Calvin Klein and relocated to the Big Apple. Todd Snyder and Ovadia & Sons are also among the larger brands that have remained loyal to the men’s-specific calendar. And Hugo Boss is back again as well.Moving men’s to abut the women’s dates in February is a smart move and, according to Abboud, should attract more editors and more buzz. “The problem has been getting editors to travel in for the men’s shows, so having them closer to women’s is a benefit,” he said at the time.But challenges remain. CFDA has left its former centralized home, Skylight Clarkson Sq, which is forcing designers to find alternative sites around the city, a move that could present a financial burden for smaller brands.So while next month’s edition will undoubtedly be fine for the men’s wear contingent, the big question remains: What will happen at the spring 2018 shows in July? The whole reason for establishing a men’s-specific runway show calendar was to better align with the industry’s market dates. The women’s September dates are too late for men’s wear retailers. But with fewer and fewer men’s designers on the calendar, will those who remain be able to attract retailers, editors and influencers to their shows?Still, CFDA is sticking to its guns. As Beckham said recently: “We wouldn’t move men’s to September [to coincide with the women’s calendar]. That wouldn’t make sense.” And in fact, the July dates are already set: July 9 to 12, he said.So time will tell just how robust that lineup will be as the industry continues to grapple with a changing landscape.
Supermodel @helenachristensen teamed up with longtime friend and designer @camillastaerk on a joint @paredeyewear collaboration. The lineup features three styles and 11 offerings, all of which embody a vintage feel. Get all the details on how they celebrated the collab on WWD.com. #wwdaccessories #wwdeye (📷: @slovekinpics)
“It’s a hard industry to keep motivated, as well, so finding different subjects and people is what makes it worth it – when you’re like, oh, I’ve met great people, I feel like I’ve done something good, and I feel proud of having done this,” said French actress Stacy Martin on being grateful for the variety of roles she’s take on. Read @ktauer’s full interview with Martin on her her latest film “Godard Mon Amour.” #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
After showing in front of the Eiffel Tower for his last two women’s ready-to-wear collection, it looks like @anthonyvaccarello may be heading to the Big Apple. Sources say the designer will stage his next @ysl show in NYC on June 6. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
EXCLUSIVE: Two and half months after John Targon, cofounder and codesigner of Baja East, was hired as creative director of the contemporary division at Marc Jacobs, he has left the company, WWD has learned. Marc Jacobs International, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, confirmed Targon’s departure in a statement: “John Targon is a talented designer and we appreciate the work he has done here. Ultimately working together did not make sense for the brand and we wish him the best.” Read the story by @jessiredale, link in bio. #wwdnews
@theluxurycollection is officially launching a collection, tapping Sofia Sanchez de Betak for the capsule. Over 30 styles will be featured in the Chufy x The Luxury Collection, debuting next month at Bergdorf Goodman, The Webster, FiveStory and more. De Betak, known as “@chufy,” drew inspiration for the collection from her trips to Japan in the past year #wwdfashion
@lhd, founder and CEO of @thewebster, has teamed up with @lebonmarcherivegauche for the European launch of her ready-to-wear line, LHD. The launch will come with an exclusive pop-up opening today that’s set to run through May 20. Located on the second floor, it carries her debut Miami-themed resort collection, launched in November as see-now-buy-now. #wwdfashion