PARIS — French architect Nicolas Dorval-Bory specializes in spare, elegant designs that range from private residences (his first project was director Wes Anderson’s Paris apartment) to stores, including Maison Kitsuné's largest location in the French capital.Dorval-Bory is among 20 young architects and landscape architects whose work has been selected for the Albums des jeunes architectes et paysagistes, an event organized by France’s Ministry of Culture and Communication every two years to highlight the country’s most promising talents.Earlier this month, his project for a house on Moheli, the smallest of the Comoros islands, was on display as part of the “AJAP 2016” exhibition at the Cité de l'Architecture et du Patrimoine, the museum of architecture and monumental sculpture located in the Palais de Chaillot in Paris.Here, he tells WWD about his working wardrobe:WWD: How do you dress now for work versus five years ago?Nicolas Dorval-Bory: I dress quite casually for work and my style is fairly consistent, mainly due to lack of time. As a result, I don't own a lot of clothes. Those I have are all fairly straightforward items that I'm very attached to. I very often wear a midnight blue suit with a pair of Reeboks. I only have white or light blue shirts, in cotton poplin or Oxford cloth, and generally a cashmere sweater. The biggest change I have made in the last five years is to stop wearing two former staples — the color black and Stan Smith sneakers — which I now wear only very occasionally.WWD: What’s been the catalyst driving changing dress norms in your industry?N.D-B.: Architects generally have very little time to devote to their hobbies and by extension, to their clothes. Our profession also means we usually work on fairly long-term projects, unlike people in the fields of graphic design and fashion, so I see dress norms evolving in slow but fundamental ways. Whereas several years ago some architects cultivated a measured exuberance, the majority today identify with a form of normcore or neutrality that is strongly linked to contemporary architectural concerns.WWD: Who or what is the biggest influence on what you put on for work?N.D-B.: I tweak my outfits very slightly, depending on whether I have appointments with clients and public events, or a day without appointments. The weather only affects my innerwear [underwear] and outerwear [coats], because I wear the same shirts, pants, sweater and jackets in summer as in winter.WWD: Does what you wear affect your work in a substantial way?N.D-B.: Some clients once admitted that they chose me over several other architects because I was wearing Repetto shoes.WWD: Do you follow fashion trends, or prefer to stay true to your style?N.D-B.: I prefer to stay true to my — fairly neutral — style, more out of necessity than anything else. I simply wouldn’t have the time to follow fashion trends.WWD: Do you have favorite designers or brands?N.D-B.: APC has always been a favorite for its aesthetic, its positioning and the talent of its founder, whom I sincerely admire. I have a personal link with the brand: in 2007, I worked for Laurent Deroo, the architect of the APC stores, and I have links to several people who have worked for the brand. I like Acne, which I find very elegant, and Maison Kitsuné, for whom I designed the store on Boulevard des Filles du Calvaire in Paris with Charles-Edmond Henry.WWD: Given a choice, would you dress more formally or more casually?N.D-B.: For me, it’s always about a mix, like pairing my blue suit with a pair of Reeboks.WWD: What’s your favorite purchase of the last few months and why?N.D-B.: A pair of wool mittens from Muji. I had stopped wearing gloves for a long time and I am rediscovering the joy of thermal comfort every time I put them on.WWD: Do you spend more on clothes for work or play?N.D-B.: Honestly, they are one and the same. I wear the same thing on evenings, weekends, holidays and at work, and since every item is very simple, I don’t really pay attention to how I coordinate them.
Breaking News: @louisvuitton's men's artistic director @mrkimjones is leaving the French fashion house after nearly 7 years. Jones joined Louis Vuitton in 2011, following a three year tenure as creative director of British luxury goods brand Alfred Dunhill. Jones is to exit Louis Vuitton after showing his fall 2018 collection for the brand in Paris on Thursday. Read the full exclusive story on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
For men’s fall 2018, @giuseppezanotti drew on elements from streetwear, sport, biker, combat and rock ‘n’ roll. Pictured here are a pair of shoes from the collection, featuring zippers, rhinestones, and silver hardware. Head to WWD.com to see a roundup of the accessories from Milan’s men’s fall 2018 shows. #wwdfashion (📷: Andrea Delb)
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of @ralphlauren’s snowboarding collection, the brand is mining its archives. The iconic brand is reintroducing vintage styles and dropping new designs for a color capsule that will be available in Ralph Lauren stores and @openingceremony on January 25. The capsule will consist of 10 pieces, including the Snow Beach Pullover, pictured here, which is a collector’s item that rapper Raekwon wore in Wu-Tang Clan’s “Can It Be All So Simple” video. #wwdfashion (📷: Tom Gould)
For @rochasofficial’s pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua channeled the sophisticated and intriguing Catherine Denevue in the film “Belle de Jour.” Polished collarless coats, midi skirts, suits and ’60s graphic motifs were all featured in the collection, adding a sense of discreet luxury. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion
“We tried to produce clothing of that couture quality, but the most daunting part was that we only had a matter of days [to do it],” said costume designer Lou Eyrich, who recreated Gianni Versace’s iconic looks for @americancrimestoryfx. Eyrich searched online retailers and vintage shops for original pieces from the design house and for @penelopecruzoficial, who plays Donatella Versace. Head to WWD.com to read how she created the Versace world. #wwdfashion
Only three months after her stellar debut catwalk season, @kaiagerber has inked her first big design collaboration –– with @karllagerfeld. The collection blends Lagerfeld’s Parisian chic aesthetic and the model’s signature West Coast casual style via RTW, accessories, footwear and more. The #KarlLagerfeldxKaia collection will launch in September with a series of events. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews