Backstage at Emporio Armani Men's Fall 2018

MILAN — Emporio Armani is the latest Italian brand to opt for a coed show.

As Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana president Carlo Capasa revealed during a press conference on Thursday presenting the schedule of the upcoming Milan Men’s Fashion Week, the fashion label will skip its traditional men’s fashion show in June to host a coed runway show in September during the city’s Women’s Fashion Week. The coed show won’t take place at Giorgio Armani’s theater on Via Bergognone, as per tradition, but in a still-undisclosed location. That said, the signature Giorgio Armani men’s show will be held on June 18 at the theater.

Separately, Furla said on Thursday it will also stage a coed presentation in September.

While Emporio Armani joins the likes of Gucci and Bottega Veneta, for example, Capasa announced new entries in the June calendar including London-based Besfxxk and Italian label Vìen. South Korean fashion house Spyder, French brand Ih Nom Uh Nit and Italian fashion houses Doucal’s and Triple RRR, the line designed by Roberto Cavalli’s son Robert. Diesel Black Gold will not hold a show, but will present its spring collection to retailers, while the second Diesel Red Tag capsule collection will be unveiled on the catwalk. As reported, according to market sources, Diesel founder Renzo Rosso has eyed Belgian designer Glenn Martens, creative director of the Paris-based Y/Project label, to conceive the capsule.

Men’s Fashion Week, originally scheduled June 16-19, is now running June 15-18, and will include a range of women’s labels unveiling women’s resort 2019 and spring 2019 lineups. Along with the already announced shows and presentations of Alberta Ferretti and Stella McCartney, hosting events on June 15 and 18 respectively, Finnish label Aalto will make its Milanese debut with a show of the brand’s resort 2019 collection, and Sunnei will present its first women’s range with a coed show on June 17.

Backstage at Prada Men's Fall 2018

Backstage at Prada Men’s Fall 2018.  Kuba Dabrowski/WWD

In keeping with its constant attention to upcoming talents, on June 15, Camera Nazionale della Moda will host the closing event of the Milano Moda Graduate talent scouting program dedicated to the students of some of the most prestigious Italian fashion schools. A jury, headed by Rosso, will assign three awards, offered by zipper specialist YKK, Camera Nazionale della Moda and Vogue Italia.

In addition, Capasa announced the creation of the CNMI Fashion Trust, a not-for-profit entity financed by a group of philanthropists, entrepreneurs and investors, including Anna Zegna, Laudomia Pucci, Margherita Maccapani Missoni, Livia Firth and Tania Fares. The institution will support emerging fashion talents, offering them not only financial support, but also specific education and business mentorship programs.

“I really think that Milan can be an example of how to do things for the Italian system,” said Capasa, referring to the instability of the current domestic political scene. “We really hope that a new government will be formed as soon as possible and that it will take care of the industries which actually contribute to the growth of this country. We wish the new government will favor exports, the relationships with our international partners and will promote the flourishing of the labor market.”

As Capasa highlighted, these aspects are all crucial for the Italian textile, fashion, accessories and beauty industry, which, according to data provided by the Italian fashion chamber, in 2017 generated revenues of 87.3 billion euros, up 3 percent compared to the previous year. Last year, exports grew 5.5 percent to 65.5 billion euros, compared to 62 billion euros in 2016.

In particular, exports of fashion products toward China and Switzerland rose 14 and 17.5 percent, respectively, while those destined to the Unites States and Japan were down 1.9 and 1.2 percent compared to 2016. At the same time, the exports of accessories, jewelry and beauty products toward the United States climbed 8.3 percent.

In addition, the data provided by Camera Nazionale della Moda said that in the first semester of 2018, revenues generated by the Italian fashion industry are expected to grow 1.5 percent compared to the same period in 2017, while the sales of accessories, jewelry and beauty products are expected to increase 2 percent.

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