The city’s designers are casting off their skinny shapes and easing into fall with looser silhouettes and pieces that are the very antithesis of curve-hugging and buttoned-up.
Margaret Howell is ready to unveil oversized cotton chinos cinched with military belts, a softly constructed cotton-lined Mac, and rolled slim trousers, while Joseph’s Mark Thomas said his collection nods to the Seventies, but also channels the ease of the Nineties.
This story first appeared in the January 6, 2016 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
While Pringle’s Massimo Nicosia is using repetitive patterns as the inspiration for his collection, the Italian designer has also been working with Nick Wooster on re-worked wool and cashmere classics that whisper ease, including chunky, textured crew neck cardigans, a zip-front turtleneck, and Henley sweaters with suede details.
The ever-polished Patrick Grant of E. Tautz, whose collection was inspired by the clothes he wore in the Eighties, said: “After a decade or more of skinny constricting clothes, I think I just wanted clothes that were liberating. That sense of casual ease was the starting point” for the collection.
Nature and the adventures it can unfold was another source of inspiration for many of the city’s designers. Christopher Raeburn looked to the wilderness of Mongolia, while Belstaff’s Frederik Dyhr will be taking the customer on a journey “through tough terrains, snow-capped mountains and icy glaciers,” with the British heritage label’s fall ’16 collection.