LONDON — Paul Helbers has put his eponymous men’s wear collection on ice due to production problems and confirmed Friday that the fall 2017 collection had not been delivered to clients.The Dutch designer cited “a considerable controversy with our production coordination platform in Italy” and said “further development of the Helbers wardrobe will be put on hold for the moment.” He indicated that there were some quality issues. “The affordable high quality of the line is what we believe part of our initial success and requires a rigorous manufacturing standard.”Helbers said that although the brand will be unavailable on the market, “I will continue to consult on collections, style, interior decoration, photography and visual communication.”He said his signature brand would remain loyal to the ateliers with which it has been working, and that he is currently studying “alternative set-ups for the coordination of our production and logistics. The deliberate small scale of our company is to be able to work with specialized ateliers who can craft with skill and innovation."Helbers launched his first 20-piece collection in January 2016 in Paris, and became known for his laid-back tailoring, rich colors and fabrics. Before going solo, he did a five-year stint as men’s designer at Louis Vuitton under then-artistic director Marc Jacobs.Helbers conceived his signature line as a functional urban collection that had the “imperfection of artisanal craft” and offered the “contrast between rough and refined.” He described the first collection as having "an unpolished elegance" designed to take the wearer from work to weekend.After leaving Vuitton in 2011, Helbers served as consulting creative director with several brands, including the women’s ath-leisure brand Callens.The fall collection looked to 19th-century paintings for inspiration, and in particular to a self-portrait of a young man desperate to look older than his years. The artist was Émile Friant, and his too-big clothes — as well as the dark oil paints he used — were a source of fascination for Helbers.The collection was soft-edged and cocooning and Helbers approached his designs like an artist would a canvas: A nubby, flecked green sweater was made from 15 colors of yarn, while a blue suit was pieced together from strips of corduroy cut in different directions to create a new texture and mimic the impact of brush strokes.Shoulders on coats and jackets were soft and rounded, while trousers were roomy with pleat fronts, both reflecting the young artist’s borrowed outfit.
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Dominique Maître)
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)