PARIS — Inspired by the energy on the runways, many retailers increased spending on fall collections at the Paris men’s wear trade shows, held here in tandem last week.Buyers cited oversize pants, longer coats, overshirts, military styles and shearlings as key directions at Capsule Man, Man and Tranoï Homme & Preview.“The way men are dressing is quite different to how it used to be. Function is an integral part. Everyone wants their wardrobe to work in many different ways,” said Luke Mountain, men’s buying manager at Selfridges, also praising Capsule Man’s new Maison de la Mutualité location. “It’s always a carefully curated selection of brands and the layout is better this season, divided into different environments — not just one big space,” he noted.Darren Skey, head of men’s wear at Harvey Nichols also hailed the trade show’s more convenient site. Among top picks, Skey listed Peir Wu for its “new take on fashion tailoring;” Second/Layer’s “lovely clean palette and great proportions” and Tourne de Transmission’s “play with proportion and silhouette and some really strong outerwear pieces.”Enjoying a great season, Tourne de Transmission’s fall offering was also a hit with Addition Adelaide’s executive director Mamiko Hasegawa. She praised the collection, which included a camel kimono coat and an extralarge camel scarf with a denim pocket, for fitting into this season’s oversize, Dutch-influenced, end-of-the-Eighties aesthetic — as seen in her favorite shows: Raf Simons and Balenciaga. “It’s fun for us to mix in a brand like Tourne de Transmission. They’re going in the same direction at a different price point but there’s a connection. The last couple of seasons have been really boring for us — everything was the same, everybody was copying each other and no one cared for the artistic way of fashion. Now we’re really seeing what we’ve been waiting for. It’s very artistic, antimass production.”The retailers also lauded a return to a more mature look. “There’s a completely different atmosphere. The direction is more classic, less streetwear, less shiny high-tech,” said Eric Degenhardt who was shopping Capsule for his Cologne-based store M/Philippi and named East Harbour Surplus as a favorite.But not everyone felt as inspired: “For me, if I do something without a name, I need high quality, and that’s hard to find,” said Uwe Maier, general manager of Stuttgart’s high-end store Bungalow Gallery. "Paris is getting a bit less important for me, I’m finding more in London.”Tranoï Homme inaugurated its new Cité de la Mode home, with a selection focused on women’s pre-collections as well as its new Tranoï Parfums area. Organizers turned the new venue in Paris fashion’s creative hub into one giant concept store, serving up free oysters and Champagne. At Tranoï’s Bourse location, meanwhile, avant garde yet wearable men's labels, praised by retailers, took the floor.This was the season where “hardcore style” met “comfort,” according to Bona Kim, senior manager of Seoul-based Lansmere, owned by Samsung C&T. “We’re seeing a meeting of looks. Today a man will wear a very destroyed jean with a very classic coat,” she said, picking The Last Conspiracy’s evolution from hardwearing boots toward a more comfortable boot-sneaker-hybrid as an example.“This is the best season ever, there’s so much creativity, it’s never been this difficult to decide, ‘Do I go with the new Seventies, Eighties directions — or stick with the old,’ which is selling very well,” said Miro Zwering, owner of Amsterdam’s hip 2PR boutique, browsing military coats and mud brown sweaters at Italian label Overcome. “Everybody is bringing even better quality,” he added, which led him to increase his budget as well.Among quality collections priced well, cashmere prints at Roberto Collina came in for praise. “They have great cuts at good prices,” noted Kazushi Kimura, chief buyer for The Park, reporting that his sales of designerwear and sweaters are down while classic shoes are up.Barbara Beernaert, owner of Belgian store Ghent, named Japanese fabrics and minimal clean cuts, the Scottish Highlands — as seen in English fabrics and square prints — the combination of gray, khaki and navy plus lots of stripes as key influences at Tranoï. Beernaert bought all-Italian this season, including the Pomandère men’s and women’s wear and DNL men’s wear.Noting that technology is less of a talking point this season, Hijiri Endo of Japanese concept store Vekt praised beautiful bonding techniques by Barbara Alan. Presenting their first full men’s collection, the design duo’s stripped-back collection was bought by Isetan which carries the label’s women's wear. Key pieces included an embossed jacket where wool jersey is bonded to cotton jersey and starts to shape to you as you wear it.Man showcased a strong collection of heritage brands and emerging talents such as Sunnei, which had a strong selling season, and Avoc, which had buyers stopping by after the media buzz generated from sending models down the runway wearing masks of political figures such as Donald Trump. “Our theme was pirates, so we featured the biggest 21st-century pirates,” said codesigner Bastien Laurent. French knitwear label Monsieur Lacenaire, which showed some of its original, easy-to-wear knitwear in a runway collaboration with White Mountaineering, reported strong demand for its sweaters where knitted points traced a skier's route.Many Japanese retailers stayed away due to insurance-related issues following the Paris attacks, although show organizers said many still came — albeit in smaller teams. “We’ve been surprised by the number of Japanese buyers,” said general manager David Hadida. Overall, Tranoï Homme saw footfall up 38 percent, with 11 percent of visitors from Japan.Next season, for retailers worried about losing time between locations, organizers plan to boat visitors up and down the Seine to Tranoï Bourse. At least this will be one journey where guests won’t have to worry about another Paris taxi strike.
In honor the @CFDA’s announcement of @iamnaomicampbell receiving the Fashion Icon Award at the 2018 #CFDAAwards, which will take place on June 4, here’s a #tbt of the supermodel on @michaelkors’ runway in 1991. #wwdfashion #wwdarchive (📷: George Chinsee)
“I was making the guacamole when my scout saw me,” says model @stuckinteenage on being discovered just six months ago while working at @chipotlemexicangrill. Since then Williams has signed with @dnamodels, walked in her first show at @calvinklein and landed on the cover of @vogueitalia – a high point of any model’s career. To read @lisajlockwood’s full interview with the model on her experiences thus far, head to WWD.com – link in bio. (📷: George Chinsee)
“I love the idea of dialogue, period. It’s where I’ve always gotten my inspiration from: hearing other women speak, their journeys and their paths,” said @hereisgina, who delivered the keynote speech during @sxsw for @createcultivate in partnership with @fossil. For her two panels, Rodriguez chose female empowering, female-led and female entrepreneurs to focus on. Head to WWD.com to read more about her thoughts on Time’s Up, growing up in a family of women and why we “need a girls’ club.” #wwdeye #sxsw (📷: @jgreenery)
Leading luxury brand are shaking things up to keep up with streetwear. Case in point: the arrival of @mrkimjones as artistic director of @diorhomme. Jones, who succeeds @Kris_Van_Assche, is seen as one of the handful of designers who can actually straddle the luxury and streetwear worlds — which could lead to even more changes at established brands. What could this mean for the rest of the menswear landscape? Head to WWD.com to find out what experts predict #wwdfashion (📷: @franckmura)
“It’s like buying groceries. You’re going to buy the best mango, the best mozzarella, the best things. You have to, or others are going to take it all,” said @gabrielahearst on why she uses only the finest fabrics. Last week, Hearst received her first @cfda nomination for Womenswear Designer of the Year, and earlier this month she opened a permanent showroom in Paris. To read @jessiredale’s interview with the designer and find out why this is shaping up to be a big year for her, head to WWD.com. #wwdfashion (📷: @francoisgoize)
“It’s an interesting thing, playing a younger version of your mother. It’s an interesting concept. I adore my mom and love her in every capacity, but it was just something that had never crossed my mind,” says @anniemstarke on playing a young Joan Castleman in “The Wife.” The same role will be played by her mother Glenn Close. Read more about her growing up in the film industry as the daughter of producer John H. Starke and Close and what she has planned for the future #wwdeye (📷: @nataliamantini)
@asics is launching a new streetwear sneaker inspired by its latest ambassador, @steveaoki. The Hyper-Kenzen x Aoki, which will launch at @footlocker stores exclusively tomorrow, is a slip-on style that incorporates the brand’s proprietary Gel technology through beads integrated into the midsole for comfort and endurance. Read the full story on WWD.com.