The Florentine fair provides retailers with a comprehensive overview of the market by showcasing top brands in every category along with a slew of special events. Here, retailers weigh in on what they expect to discover at the show.
Bruce Pask, men’s fashion director, Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman MarcusWhat specifically are you looking for at Pitti?Literally everything. Absolutely anything can catch my eye if it is well conceived and crafted, unique in presentation, best of class and, therefore, perfect for our very discerning customer. The great thing about Pitti Uomo is that there is such a vast variety of compelling clothing, sportswear, accessories, leather goods, knitwear that it is incredibly inspiring season after season. It's a show meant for discovery. The fall edition is especially rich, with beautiful, luxe outerwear and sweaters.Which brands are you most excited to see?I always love to see the Brunello Cucinelli collection. It's beautifully presented and merchandised and walk-throughs with the team — always impeccably turned out in the new collection — and Mr. Cucinelli are inspiring and thoughtful. The Classico Italia section is always compelling and filled with Made in Italy product that is beautifully crafted and presented. I also just really enjoy walking each of the exhibition buildings, scouting booths and looking for anything that may be eye-catching to me and, consequently, our customer. I am always inspired by the special guest designer runway shows and presentations produced during Pitti where they make the best use of some of the most amazing Renaissance architecture in the world, rooms and buildings that the average visitor to the city never gets to see. It is all quite truly a feast for the eyes.Which product categories do you think will perform best in 2018?Rich, luxe and textured sweaters; soft, luxe suede outerwear; sport jackets that have great depth and surface interest and wonderful hand. Novelty and newness are very important. Our customer responds to pieces that are refreshing to see, things that stand out, unique items — best in class.What is it about Pitti that you like?This show really sets the tone and grounds the season in reality, presenting a lens through which to view the collections and runway shows we subsequently see. Many viable and wearable trends in the luxury men's wear market start here. Francesco Galli, chief executive officer, Folli FollieWhat specifically are you looking for at Pitti?Pitti is the most important men’s wear fair where we are able to find new products and get a general idea of the season’s buying and trends. There, we can make contacts and do networking, but most of all, we look for relevant partnerships. In the last few seasons Pitti has become even more important and international, thanks to the participation of many new designers.Which brands are you most excited to see?There’s not a particular brand that we are interested in, but we take advantage of the overall energy that we can feel at Pitti.Which product categories do you think will perform best in 2018?Today’s most popular category is streetwear with sneakers, tracksuits and track pants [that reference] the Nineties. Second place is taken by coats and jackets, generally knitwear. We are always looking for new trends so we are waiting for this Pitti to get some new input and share innovative designer ideas.What is it about Pitti that you like?It’s always exciting to attend Pitti. Every season the trade show has the capacity to renew itself by introducing many new designers from all over the world, and the reputation that this fair has built, year after year, makes Pitti the best men’s wear trade show you can go to. Karen Vernet, gmm men’s wear, PrintempsWhat specifically are you looking for at Pitti?Embracing the seasonal flavor of fall 2018, discovering brands, newness and seasonal stories.Which brands are you most excited to see? We are super excited about attending Brooks Brothers and the Undercover and The Soloist shows. This season, several brands are coming back to Pitti such as Newman, Loreak Mendia and, as usual, formal Italian brands like Boglioli, Altea, Slowear and outerwear brands such as Welter Shelter, Herno, Barbour and Canada Goose.Which product categories do you think will perform best in 2108?Tailoring remains a strong statement — trousers and jackets will still be key in different fits and fabrics. Due to the streetwear trend, jersey will still be strong this season, with items like sweaters and T-shirts.What is it about Pitti that you like?Pitti is always a good opportunity for experiencing how trends are integrated and digested by brands. It is also a good way to discover new brands. Sam Kershaw, buying manager for Mr PorterWhat specifically are you looking for at Pitti?Pitti Immagine Uomo showcases a great mix of well-established brands, alongside interesting, new and more niche designers. Each season Mr Porter is on the lookout for a range of exciting and innovative brands to add to our growing brand list.Which brands are you most excited to see?There are always numerous brands that I look forward to seeing, but for this season, I am particularly excited to explore what’s new at Brunello Cucinelli, Camoshita and Massimo Alba.What is it about Pitti that you like?Pitti’s success over the past couple of years is due to its rather shrewd inclusion of great headline shows in and around the event from brands such as Visvim and Off-White. Bosse Myhr, director of men’s wear for SelfridgesWhat specifically are you looking for at Pitti?We are always on the lookout for something new, exciting and unique. The quality of the showcases has been improving year after year.Which brands are you most excited to see?We are very excited to see the Undercover and The Soloist show this year.Which product categories do you think will perform best in 2018?Outerwear has been a significant driver so far and we expect this to grow in 2018.What is it about Pitti that you like?The diversity of the brands on show and also Pitti as a place to meet — almost every brand we work with attends the event. David Aquilina, head of men’s wear buying, Harvey NicholsWhat specifically are you looking for at Pitti?I will be looking for newness. It is one of the first things on the men’s calendar and provides a real broad spectrum of products. It gives a good indication of what we can expect to see for the rest of the season.Which brands are you most excited to see?We have John Undercover in our stores from spring 2018, so I am looking forward to seeing the Undercover and Takahiro Miyashita The Soloist shows.Which product categories do you think will perform best in 2018?Footwear and sneakers — especially with sneaker heads now buying every tier of product, from Adidas to Balenciaga.What is it about Pitti that you like?Florence is one amazing little city. So to be able to incorporate work into a trip to Florence is a bit of a bonus.Roopal Patel, senior vice president, fashion director, Saks Fifth Avenue:What specifically are you looking for at Pitti?We are looking forward to scouting new talent and resources for Saks. There is a focus on emerging talent with all of the curated exhibitions from across the globe. We are curious to see more of this next generation of talent.Which brands are you most excited to see?I am excited to see the Undercover show, and the finalist lineup from the Woolmark Prize.Which product categories do you think will perform best in 2018?The men's business continues to thrive as a whole, spanning all product offerings and lifestyle categories. The sport luxe trend, especially, has expanded season over season in ready-to-wear and footwear options. Sneakers are a dominant trend, leading the market and men can't wait to add to their ever-growing sneaker “wardrobes.” Shoji Uchiyama, chief buyer and fashion director for the men’s division, United Arrows What specifically are you looking for at Pitti?Errico Formicola, Roberto Collina, Crockett & Jones and Carmina shoes, as well as other high-quality brands that are specialists in their categories.Which brands are you most excited to see?The show of the invited designers, Undercover and The Soloist, as well as traditional brands such as Grenfell and Invertère.Which product categories do you think will perform best in 2018?Japanese brands such as Auralee, Comoli and Kaptain Sunshine. Most of them do not participate in Pitti, but I like them because they make very high-quality collections.What is it about Pitti that you like?We can view a variety of brands ranging from dress to sportswear at the same time and in the same location. Also, the invited designers’ shows are great and I enjoy them every time. Federica Montelli, head of fashion, La RinascenteWhat specifically are you looking for at Pitti?Pitti marks the official launch of the "fashion season," therefore I usually look for a general stimulus and overall sense of where the season is going, with the trends and underlying themes that can be applied to both men's and women’s fashion.Which brands are you most excited to see?I am particularly excited to see the Gucci Garden event on Jan. 9 and the Undercover and Takahiromiyashita The Soloist shows back to back on Jan. 11. In general, there is a large focus on international talents, such as with the Concept Korea show, as well as Finland as guest nation.Which product categories do you think will perform best in 2018?Sneakers and streetwear will continue their positive stride together with a more relaxed and luxurious approach to ath-leisure. At the same time there is a renewed interest on craftsmanship and artisanal qualities, especially since the retail spaces become more and more flexible and eclectic.What is it about Pitti that you like?I like that it's a good mix of commercial brands, cutting-edge designs and niche luxury brands from across the globe. It is both a "fashion insiders" and a "consumers/influencers" destination — it really is more approachable than other fashion weeks and initiatives and it is always fun to just take time and observe the street style and how crazy people go with their outfits just to be photographed. In the past editions the organization has really made a wonderful job in making sure that special events are more and more relevant in terms of fashion content. Justin Berkowitz, men's fashion director, Bloomingdale's
What specifically are you looking for at Pitti?
Pitti is always a fantastic, condensed view into what will be happening for the upcoming season. The breadth of offerings at the show is unparalleled, which is illustrated by this year’s guest designers. At one end, we’ll be treated to American icon Brooks Brothers’ anniversary presentation, and at the other extreme, we’ll get a wonderful view into the world of Japanese avant-garde design with Undercover and The Soloist. I look to the show as not only a chance to discover new brands and an opportunity to determine what products we will be bringing to our customer but also as a strong foundation on which we can build our seasonal stories.
“What he has done at Vuitton is really exceptional,” said @gameofthrones’ actress Gwendoline Christie on @mrkimjones’ final show for @louisvuitton. “He has rebooted luxury in terms of making it commercial, viable and contemporary. And most importantly artistic. He has never compromised his artistic vision for the sake of commodity.” (📷: @zefashioninsider)
After seeing a demand for men’s wear from its customers, British contemporary women’s wear label @ariesarise has added a men’s wear component and will launch a unisex collection with @mrporterlive. The 20-piece collection includes jackets, denim, logo T-shirts and more with deconstructed ‘90s vibes. Set to launch on January 18, you can shop the pieces on Aries’ website and on mrporter.com. #wwdfashion
“And so spending so much time with a character who thinks like that, inevitability you try and analyze yourself and go back and think about your own demons and dark chapters that you had in your life,” says @thedanielbruhl of his role in TNT’s “The Alienist.” The show, set in the Gilded Age of New York, also stars Dakota Fanning and Luke Evans. Head to WWD.com to read about how 39-year-old Brühl prepared for the role and why he thinks the show is so relevant to today #wwdeye ( 📷: @Eriktanner)
Now that Celine Dion’s collection has topped $10 million in sales, the pop superstar, fashion icon and newly-minted industry player is eyeing growth in Asia. Read the full report by @tiffanyap, link in bio. #wwdnews #celinedion
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
Among the familiar faces at @off____white’s show was a surprise figure: Japanese artist @takashipom, pictured here on Wednesday morning. Other show-goers included @jerrylorenzo, who spoke about his upcoming project: a @nike collaboration for back to school, with designs inspired by his childhood on the West Coast. Sitting in the front row were Future, Don Crawley, @miguel and more. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: Stephane Feugere)
According to @laurentsai, former “Terrace House: Aloha State” cast member, she didn’t know she was auditioning for the Japanese version of “Real World.” “I was telling a couple of my friends and someone’s like, ‘That sounds a lot like Terrace House.’ I was like, ’No it can’t be.’” Turns out, it was. But Tsai isn’t just a reality star — she’s an illustrator who has worked with Starbucks Japan and most recently, she’s dipping her toes into the fashion world. Head to WWD.com to read about her time on the show, modeling and her art. #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
More changes are coming to New York Fashion Week: Beginning with the spring 2019 collection, @alexanderwangny will move his New York show to June from September, adopting a biannual schedule with collections shown in June and December. Additionally, the @cfda is planning for an official summer/winter fashion season taking place as soon as June and December 2018. Read more about the upcoming changes on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @slovekinpics)