NEW YORK — James and Gwendolyn Jurney have always avoided the beaten path. From the hard-to-pronounce name of their retail store — Seize sur Vingt — to their art installations and insider-y parties, the couple has found a formula that has worked for nearly two decades.Now they’ve come up with a novel operating model intended to push the store into the next stage of its life.After their landlord sought to significantly raise the rent of their longtime home on Greene Street, the Jurneys jumped to a new spot at 198 Bowery here.But rather than relocating Seize sur Vingt, they created a new concept under the name of Groupe they’re promoting as “the first genuine and sustainable platform that connects independent, emerging and aspiring designers to a community of early adopters who are looking for more meaning in the things they wear.”What that means is that the couple is bankrolling a couple of emerging designers to create capsule collections that are distinct yet complementary to Seize sur Vingt men’s bespoke tailored clothing and furnishings. Initially these designers — who include Jon-Paul Rodriguez, Isabella Spataro, Adi Mucktar-Barnes, Luke McCann and Katya Guseva — are creating two brands developed by the Jurneys that are being sold in the store. The plan is to expand into other categories in the future.The first two labels are Troglodyte Homunculus, a sportswear brand targeted to the country boy in the city, and United Boroughs, which has a utilitarian bent.James Jurney explained that from 2005 to 2008, they had operated a similar incubator project at their original Seize sur Vingt store in NoLIta. “It was a fun experiment,” he said.Over the years, the Jurneys themselves had dabbled in creating other categories such as sneakers, but nothing really stuck. “We’re better producers than designers,” James admitted, “and we believe young people deserve a break and a voice. So we recruited full-time and freelance designers who had incredible fresh ideas.”Since Seize sur Vingt has been in business since 1998, they have longstanding relationships with factories and fabric mills that they’re tapping to produce the labels. “We’re just increasing our orders,” he said.But rather than expand under the Seize sur Vingt name, which they believe is “sacrosanct,” they opted to launch brands "and create a new vision.” As for the designers, one is a recent Parsons The New School graduate who they found at the last Project show while another is fresh out of the Fashion Institute of Technology.If customers are attracted to their brands, James said the labels will be expanded and the designers will gain equity in them. “That’s appealing to everyone,” he said.The Jurneys have created a web site in addition to the store, which sports the Groupe name on the outside along with its three labels: Seize sur Vingt, Troglodyte Homunculus and United Boroughs.Inside, they have worked to create an “immersive, engaging experience,” James said, which includes a design lab, conference room, fabric library and rotating art gallery.The Jurneys said in the future, they’d like to expand this incubator concept to other categories including accessories, women’s wear and shoes, as well as to other cities. If Groupe were to open in Los Angeles or London, the Jurneys said they would work to find local designers to create brands that reflect those cities.“We hope we can keep building this,” he said.
For its next men’s wear collection, @roberto_cavalli will show as a special guest at #PittiUomo, running from June 12-15. The brand, which has Florence in its roots, will relaunch its men’s wear collection, which will be presented separately from women’s wear for the first time since Paul Surridge was appointed creative director in May. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
“I was making the guacamole when my scout saw me,” says model @stuckinteenage on being discovered just six months ago while working at @chipotlemexicangrill. Since then Williams has signed with @dnamodels, walked in her first show at @calvinklein and landed on the cover of @vogueitalia – a high point of any model’s career. To read @lisajlockwood’s full interview with the model on her experiences thus far, head to WWD.com – link in bio. (📷: George Chinsee)
“I love the idea of dialogue, period. It’s where I’ve always gotten my inspiration from: hearing other women speak, their journeys and their paths,” said @hereisgina, who delivered the keynote speech at the @sxsw conference for @createcultivate, the online platform and conference series for women. For her two panels, Rodriguez chose female empowering, female-led and female entrepreneurs to focus on. Head to WWD.com to read more about her thoughts on Time’s Up, growing up in a family of women and why we “need a girls’ club.” #wwdeye #sxsw (📷: @jgreenery)
Leading luxury brand are shaking things up to keep up with streetwear. Case in point: the arrival of @mrkimjones as artistic director of @diorhomme. Jones, who succeeds @Kris_Van_Assche, is seen as one of the handful of designers who can actually straddle the luxury and streetwear worlds — which could lead to even more changes at established brands. What could this mean for the rest of the menswear landscape? Head to WWD.com to find out what experts predict #wwdfashion (📷: @franckmura)
“It’s like buying groceries. You’re going to buy the best mango, the best mozzarella, the best things. You have to, or others are going to take it all,” said @gabrielahearst on why she uses only the finest fabrics. Last week, Hearst received her first @cfda nomination for Womenswear Designer of the Year, and earlier this month she opened a permanent showroom in Paris. To read @jessiredale’s interview with the designer and find out why this is shaping up to be a big year for her, head to WWD.com. #wwdfashion (📷: @francoisgoize)
“It’s an interesting thing, playing a younger version of your mother. It’s an interesting concept. I adore my mom and love her in every capacity, but it was just something that had never crossed my mind,” says @anniemstarke on playing a young Joan Castleman in “The Wife.” The same role will be played by her mother Glenn Close. Read more about her growing up in the film industry as the daughter of producer John H. Starke and Close and what she has planned for the future #wwdeye (📷: @nataliamantini)
@asics is launching a new streetwear sneaker inspired by its latest ambassador, @steveaoki. The Hyper-Kenzen x Aoki, which will launch at @footlocker stores exclusively tomorrow, is a slip-on style that incorporates the brand’s proprietary Gel technology through beads integrated into the midsole for comfort and endurance. Read the full story on WWD.com.