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From a Portuguese tailored clothing maker to cool Canadian backpacks, bet on this group of global brands.
This story first appeared in the August 15, 2013 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
Since its founding in 1965, Dielmar has grown to become the market leader in men’s wear in Portugal with sales of 13.5 million euros, or $18 million at current exchange; a staff of 400, and the capacity to produce 120,000 jackets and 240,000 pants annually. Now the men’s tailored clothing brand has set its sights on the U.S.
Dielmar, which will make its debut at the MRket show in The Venetian, will bring a spring collection inspired by travel through Central America and the Panama Canal, according to Pedro Pinto, international sales manager. “Tropical forests, unstable weather and colorful streets of a metropolitan city are the background of a sophisticated collection developed for a modern [man seeking] a casual and relaxed look [that remains] elegant and poised,” he said. The chromatic color palette starts with light neutrals and moves toward deep blues touched with splashes of sapphire and ceramic. An array of tropical and equatorial greens paired up with berry reds and the warm shades of exotic fruits round out the mix, Pinto added. Fabrics include linen with cotton or silk, hemp mixed with wool and pure linen jersey weaves that are reminiscent of basket weaves.
In addition to its core collection of suits and sport coats, the company offers more formal looks such as morning jackets, as well as a full line of furnishings and accessories, Pinto said. There will also be a “weekend cotton” collection of washed cotton sport coats.
Prices range from 110 to 160 euros, or $146 to $213, for jackets, and 180 to 250 euros, or $240 to $333, for suits.
In addition to its home country, Dielmar is also available throughout Europe, as well as in Brazil, Angola and China. Target distribution will be high-end men’s stores and department stores.
— JEAN E. PALMIERI
HERSCHEL SUPPLY CO.
A hip, Canadian alternative to Eastpak and JanSport, Herschel Supply Co. specializes in backpacks and bags in durable designs with a fashionable bent. The assortments are comprised of more than 720 stockkeeping units, including totes, wallets, rolling luggage, tech sleeves and travel accessories.
“The concept is that it’s aspirational but with great value,” said Kellen Roland, president of The Ntwrk Agency, which handles Herschel Supply’s sales in the U.S. and is showing the brand at both the Capsule and Agenda shows.
Based in Vancouver, the brand was founded by brothers Jamie and Lyndon Cormack, who named the company after the tiny town their great-grandparents settled in after emigrating from Scotland. The brand became known for colorfully patterned designs, such as its woodland camouflage backpacks or polka dot styles.
The offerings are segmented into four groups: Classics, Studio, Bad Hills Workshop and the Kids collections. The Studio line is more fashion-forward, with various themes and collaborations each season. For spring, the company is working with artist Kevin Butler, who draws cute pictures of vintage cars topped with surfboards.
The Bad Hills Workshop collection offers high-end, experimental designs with premium details like Riri zippers and washed Japanese denim linings.
Most of the Classics line retails for $59.99 to $84.99; the Studio line is $69.99 to $79.99, and Bad Hills is $129.99 to $274.99. The brand is carried in major retailers including Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s, Shopbop, J. Crew’s Crewcuts and Apple stores, as well as independent retailers like American Rag, Need Supply and Bodega.
— DAVID LIPKE
From Tommy Bahama island-themed neckwear to limited-edition French silk braces, Trafalgar will be showcasing several new product categories at its booths at the trade shows in Las Vegas next week.
A division of Randa Accessories, the industry’s largest men’s accessories company, the brand will also offer a new line of jewelry under the Trafalgar name. The jewelry line, which was well-received at the recently completed New York market, is designed in-house and is viewed as a necessary brand extension, according to Mary Tackett, Trafalgar president. “We saw a need in the market for a great, quality jewelry line that would retail for under $100,” she said. The company looked at the history of patterns used in its braces — herringbones, paisleys and other men’s wear classics — “and infused those into cuff links, tie bars and money clips,” she said. Genuine inlaid stones will also be used. Prices will range from $65 to $125 for cuff links to $65 to $95 for tie bars.
Trafalgar will also offer two new limited-edition braces for holiday. The first has novelty themes woven from French silks on 200-year-old looms with patterns inspired by the brand’s archives. Only 222 of each pattern will be produced, and they’ll be signed and sold with a card. They’ll retail for around $195, she said. There will also be a Boardwalk collection of suspenders, with a portion of the proceeds donated to the hurricane-relief efforts in New Jersey.
The other new addition is the Tommy Bahama collection, which Tackett said is being targeted to the under-40-year-old customer, a slightly younger demographic than the core shopper. Palm trees, floral prints, which are “trending so well today,” and other resort-themed prints will be available in traditional ties as well as bow ties and pocket squares. Prices will range from $58 to $78.
Tackett said Trafalgar will be selling both immediates and spring at MRket as well as MAGIC, where pieces from the jewelry and Tommy Bahama collections will be shown at the Randa booth. “Retailers are buying more immediates in August for their holiday needs,” she said.
Launched with just a few leather jackets in 2008, Lot78 has grown into a full men’s and women’s collection, with 70 styles for each gender each season. Priced and aesthetically adjacent to brands like Rag & Bone and Acne, Lot78 melds a streetwear aesthetic inspired by its hometown of London with tailored pieces.
“It’s a city look married to luxury fabrics, with everything made in Italy,” explained founder Ollie Amhurst, who was at Giorgio Armani for 10 years, working his way up from a from a stockroom position to director of wholesale for the U.K. “It’s basics in beautiful fabrics and then we add in some fashion pieces.”
The brand is carried by Barneys New York, Mr Porter, Tannery, Totokaelo and East Dane, the soon-to-launch men’s site from Shopbop.
The spring lineup, which will be at the Liberty show, encompasses linen and viscose blend blazers in steel blue or anthracite, shirts with subtle military details, luxe activewear pieces in cashmere blends, quilted cotton sweatshirts and lava prints on T-shirts and gym shorts. Chinos are merchandised with a turned-up hem to show off a contrasting interior binding. Harking back to its roots, there are also motorcycle jackets in New Zealand lambskin and quilted bomber jackets.
Sold in the U.S. through the Archetype Showroom in New York, T-shirts are priced to retail for $80, shirts for $220, pants for $220, the cashmere blend active group for $160 to $220 and leather jackets for $895 to $1,500.
The Gap’s loss was the men’s wear industry’s gain. Since exiting the retailer’s design staff to start their own collection in 2009, Doug and Ben Burkman have carved a niche in the men’s arena for guys seeking classics updated with custom prints and fabrics to deliver a decidedly casual vibe.
Marketed under the Burkman Bros. moniker, the collection is “a reflection of us and the way we like to dress — our lives and our travels,” said Ben Burkman.
Each season, they take their inspiration from a different far-flung locale — everywhere from Sri Lanka and Ireland to India and Hawaii. “Our beginnings were in textile design, so we develop our own prints and patterns, work with weavers in the different countries and make our collection,” he explained, noting that they also strive to use “local fabrics, colors and materials” whenever possible.
Spring’s inspiration was Bangkok, where the brothers visited the street fairs and flower markets and absorbed what they found into their designs. The result is a collection that sports classic Thai imagery, including stylized alligators on button-down shirts and floral patterns on swim shorts, hats and hoodies.
In what has become the brothers’ trademark, the spring line offers an array of striped and color-blocked polos and T-shirts, printed tank tops paired with jacquard and French terry athletic shorts or floral embroidered khaki shorts. Bright pops of color and custom prints and embroideries provide a relaxed attitude that is perfect for those hot summer nights, but also appropriate in an urban setting. Prices include tanks for $80, long-sleeve wovens for $180, short-sleeve wovens for $160, terry hoodies for $145, swimwear for $145 and knit shorts for $125. Jackets are the top of the line, retailing for $248.
The collection will be shown in the Tents at Project and targeted to high-end department and specialty stores in the U.S. and internationally.