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This and That From Pitti Uomo

Highlights from the men's exhibitions in Florence.

Appeared In
Special Issue
Men'sWeek issue 01/10/2013

Brunello Cucinelli launched a line of formal shoes with cap toes, the firm’s signature gray cashmere trim inside and company logo on the sole.

This story first appeared in the January 10, 2013 issue of WWD.  Subscribe Today.

Woolrich John Rich & Bros. has revived an outdoor performance gear capsule, The Teton, which was first launched in the Seventies. Highlights include a waterproof Blizzard Teton Parka with the brand’s iconic square quilting, a coyote fur-trimmed hood and high neck. The brand also presented its first full women’s collection, designed by Monica Lardera, which encompasses feminine versions of house classics, such as a pastel take on its Arctic parka and a tweed skirt and jacket inspired by an archive hunting suit. Lardera also worked with Porselli on a collection of ballet flats that are handmade in Milan using wools from the Woolrich mill in Pennsylvania.

RELATED STORY: Luxury Sportswear Draws Retailers at Pitti Uomo >>

G-Star will launch a new campaign next week at the Bread & Butter trade show in Berlin in the form of a Pixar-produced animated short movie featuring the brand’s recently adopted mascot, “Skeleton Dog,” as the main hero. “You see the whole story of denim, so you see the cotton plants moving to the threads, you see how they weave it into denim and the indigo dips, and then at the end there’s a kind of jacket and the skeleton dog slides into the jacket and starts running,” said G-Star’s Remco de Nijs, adding that the soundtrack is by cult DJ Skrillex. The film will be available on the brand’s Web site and screened in theaters in Europe, the U.S. and Japan starting in February.

Baracuta, which will launch an e-commerce site in early February, introduced a range of accessories, including bow ties, watch straps and braces, made in collaboration with traditional British mills, such as Abraham Moon.

Jack Spade, which introduced a line of suit separates at the show, in February will launch a made-in-USA denim collection produced by Cone Denim, with a watch line due to hit the market in March.

• British swimwear brand Orlebar Brown, which this summer will operate pop-up stores in Merci in Paris and Santa Eulalia in Barcelona, introduced its first coat, a waterproof trans-seasonal mac.

• Sweden’s The White Briefs, which at the fair presented its first range of winter basics in heavy and fine-ribbed merino wool, is working on a conceptual capsule clothing collection with New York-based industrial designer Stephen Burks.

Norwegian Rain is launching a bag line this season, with footwear to follow soon.

Cruciani chief executive officer Luca Caprai unveiled an ongoing “spontaneous collaboration” with Psy. The Korean rapper, who reached international fame with the “Gangnam Style” hit, is among the fans of Cruciani’s signature macramé bracelets, which were launched in August 2011. “During his birthday party in New York’s Times Square on Dec. 31, Psy got a few bracelets from a girl and he immediately fell in love with them,” Caprai said, adding that the rapper has already ordered one featuring four-leaf clovers and a heart in the middle in 30 different colors.

• Pitti Uomo guest designer Kenzo hosted a pop-up store at the show, peddling vibrant T-shirts, socks and bags.

Marc Newson put in an appearance at the G-Star Art of Raw Gallery in the historic Sala Ottagonale venue for the presentation of a giant Taschen-published book, “Marc Newson: Works,” featuring a retrospective of his works, as well as his latest apparel capsule for the brand. The line includes a reversible bomber, a cheeky T-shirt with a Fifties-style illustration of a man being slapped in the face, and an architectural sweatshirt bearing a flocked-velvet grizzly bear with a fish in its stomach. “We’ve been plugging away slowly, slowly and I think the collection now is in a much better place than it’s ever been. We’re now having a lot of commercial success, which we didn’t in the past. I feel now we’ve really identified the consumer,” said Newson, who, separately, is working on a range of office furniture for Knoll in the U.S.

• With chinos and colored jeans long hogging the spotlight, denim exhibitors hailed the return of the blue jean. “This season there’s a return to indigo,” said Matthew Saam, J Brand’s men’s design director. The premium denim maker offered a glimpse into its future development at Pitti, where it launched a black leather biker jacket with slim sleeves and a firm body. “We’re not just a denim brand. We’re evolving into a fashion brand,” said Saam, who confirmed the company is looking to make a push into men’s ready-to-wear with a full collection planned for “sometime in 2014.”