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MILAN — Marni is turning 20 this year and is planning a number of events to mark the anniversary, leveraging a more managerial structure — a strategy put in place since the sale of a majority stake to Renzo Rosso’s OTB in December 2012 — improved merchandising and timely deliveries.
This story first appeared in the January 21, 2014 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
Through these initiatives, chief executive officer Gianni Castiglioni told WWD during the men’s presentation in Milan that he plans to double company sales in three years. In 2013, revenues totaled 130 million euros, or $171.6 million at average exchange, in line with the previous year, since the company was “impacted by the negative exchange of the Japanese yen, balanced, however, by the expansion of the men’s and accessories categories,” in addition to Marni’s core women’s ready-to-wear, which accounts for 72 percent of sales.
General manager Andrea Baldo, who joined the Italian brand in March, said it was “fundamental to understand the market and respond to its needs with timely deliveries,” including those of a more structured pre-collection.
Creative director Consuelo Castiglioni is also evolving the brand’s store concept, conceived in 2000. The first blueprint will open on London’s Sloane Street in the second half. “We are taking a step forward, so that we can become more performing and more efficacious, less rigid and more flexible,” said Baldo. Separate zones will differentiate categories, with an added focus on shoes, bags and costume jewelry, for an easier and more functional purchase. Accessories account for 25 percent of sales. Castiglioni was pleased with the success of Marni’s structured shoulder bag, Trunk.
“Marni has been innovating a lot, but it hasn’t communicated it enough, and we want to give more value to certain categories,” said Castiglioni, adding that the company will introduce its first ad campaign at the end of the year.
Also ahead, the opening of stores in Chengdu in China and San Francisco. Next year, a showroom will be opened in New York.