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Armani Gives Men a New Attitude

Giorgio Armani Parfums, which boasts the number-one and -two ranked men's fragrances in the American market, is shooting for another top-selling scent.

Giorgio Armani Parfums, which boasts the number-one and -two ranked men’s fragrances in the American market, is shooting for another top-selling scent.

The newest scent, called Attitude, will make its debut in 3,000 U.S. department store doors in May. It will then roll out globally, starting in Europe, followed by South America and Asia, in about 20,000 doors.

Executives at the Giorgio Armani Parfums division of L’Oréal USA are hoping to build on the success of Acqua di Gio for men and Armani Code for men. “With this launch, we’re hoping that our market share for Giorgio Armani [men’s fragrances] will reach 18 percent,” said Ava Huang, vice president of Giorgio Armani Parfums, whose share currently rests at 15 percent. “This would consolidate our leadership in the men’s category.”

That would land Attitude in the top five, with a volume, estimated by industry sources, at $40 million in first-year retail sales in the U.S. The advertising and promotional budget has been estimated at about $10 million.

Serge Jureidini, president of the Designer Fragrances Division, L’Oréal USA, is not concerned about cannibalization among the three brands, since they have distinctly different strategies and messages. “We’ve reached critical mass with the other two men’s brands,” said Jureidini. “The spending behind them will be at least as big as last year.”

Renaud de Lesquen, international general manager of Giorgio Armani Parfums and Cosmetics, agrees with Jureidini’s assessment, pointing out that Acqua di Gio was a “fresh aromatic fragrance,” while Armani Code for men was a seductive and “spicy” scent. Attitude, developed by Firmenich, is described as a “woody oriental fragrance,” positioned with more sensuality and sexuality.

According to Huang, Armani’s total U.S. fragrance business was up 26 percent in December.

“As a result of this double-digit growth, we ended our year up 9 percent for total Armani men’s and women’s business,” said Huang, who added that the company’s 6.5 percent market share put it behind Chanel at number five overall for men’s and women’s fragrances. Armani fragrances is ranked in third place on a global basis behind Chanel and Dior, ranked, respectively, as number one and two, she added.

Created by perfumers Annick Menardo, Alberto Morillas and Olivier Cresp, Attitude features top notes of Calabria lemon and coffee absolute, middle notes of Ceylan cardamom and lavender and bottom notes of China cedar and Indonesian patchouli. Although it’s classified as a modern fougère, the fragrance is closer to an oriental scent.

“Attitude expresses another facet of Armani — masculinity and sensuality,” said Alexandra Papazian, director of marketing for Giorgio Armani Fragrances. “It’s about being self-confident in a mysterious way; embodying a strong mind-set, both physically and mentally.”

Designed to look like onyx stone, the fragrance bottle, created by Fabian Baron, is meant to convey symmetric curves and defined lines. The silver flip-top cap is engraved with the Giorgio Armani logo seal, mimicking a cigarette lighter. Attitude is available in three sizes — 1 oz. for $39, 1.7 oz. for $55 and 2.7 oz. for $65.

Shot by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, the print advertising campaign will break in 10 to 15 men’s and women’s magazines. Some 50 million scented impressions will also be distributed.

De Lesquen plans to take advantage of the brand’s momentum by “growing the color cosmetics and women’s businesses and reintroducing the Emporio Armani brand,” said de Lesquen.

The color cosmetics, now sold in approximately 132 doors in 21 countries, last year entered Mexico, Belgium, Switzerland, Sweden and Turkey. By the second half of this year, the company has plans to be in Shanghai and Beijing as well as Russia. “We’re also reintroducing the Emporio Armani brand with a new feminine twist in the second half of this year in Europe and the U.S.,” said de Lesquen. “The objective is to continue developing a global beauty brand from cosmetics to a new skin care project.”

Jureidini added, “In the near future, there will be a major initiative in the U.S. market with the Emporio Armani brand.”